A few years ago I wrote about the grandest bottle of red wine it has been my pleasure to experience. At table with Aubert and Pamela de Villaine in Bouzeron, Aubert pulled out from his cellar a 1961 Roman\u00e9e-Conti, Domaine de la Roman\u00e9e-Conti. Tasting it was a voyage not unlike listening to Pablo Casals playing the Sarabande from Bach\u2019s Cello Suite #2, a voyage serpentine, full of unexpected turns, nooks and crannies, soul-searching, and revelations. The wine, like the music, was deep, profound, ever-changing, truly moving. It was a singular experience, and I was reminded of it when I tasted the 2010 Vieux T\u00e9l\u00e9graphe for the first time last summer with the gifted Brunier brothers.Once again, I had that sensation of a voyage through an aesthetic landscape with surprising twists and turns that covers a great distance before the aftertaste subsides. This classic opens with a voluptuous aroma that gives and gives\u2014it is striking because of its charm and floral notes. How many Ch\u00e2teauneufs can boast of those two traits? By the time your voyage ends, however, you are in a completely different place\u2014deep in the heart of Vieux T\u00e9l\u00e9graphe territory\u2014which is to say big gorgeous tannins and a glorious stoniness. This vintage can compare with any of the domaine\u2019s past vintages including 1978 and 1983. All good things must end, they say, but this stunning wine will be good for decades.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
— A few years ago I wrote about the grandest bottle of red wine it has […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[25,3,12,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-267","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-25","category-infos-millesimes","category-rouge","category-vieux-telegraphe-millesimes"],"yoast_head":"\n