VieuxTelegraphe, auteur/autrice sur Vieux Télégraphe

TERRE DE VINS – MARIE-PIERRE DELPEUCH – DÉGUSTATION LE 1 FÉVRIER 2024

Des vieilles vignes de grenache (80 %), syrah, cinsault et clairette complantés. À l’aération, il offre un univers de garrigue. Le cinsault et la clairette apportent une touche de vitalité, la syrah les épices et une finale un peu végétale. Son caractère est tout en relief. Il s’arrondira avec le temps.

TERRE DE VINS – MARIE-PIERRE DELPEUCH – DÉGUSTATION LE 1 FÉVRIER 2024

85 % de grenache, dont 40 % non égrappé et 15 % de mourvèdre, qui culminent à 400 mètres d’altitude, élevés 20 mois en foudre. C’est un bouquet capiteux de roses anciennes. Les premières notes de pruneau et de figue apparaissent et s’associent aux tanins encore marqués. Il faut l’oublier avec sérénité.

TERRE DE VINS – MARIE-PIERRE DELPEUCH – DÉGUSTATION LE 1 FÉVRIER 2024

Un blanc de noir composé de clairette, grenache, cinsault, vinifiés et élevés en foudre de 20 hl et en demi-muids venus de Châteauneuf. La robe est blanche, à peine rosée. Bien ouvert, c’est un paysage de fruits secs, d’herbes folles, de foin d’été, de fleur d’acacia où la touche subtile du bois est rémanente. Sa bouche mêle légère tension et rondeur.

TERRE DE VINS – MARIE-PIERRE DELPEUCH – DÉGUSTATION LE 1 FÉVRIER 2024

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES, L’ÉCRIN TOTAL

C’est un lieu niché au bout du monde que la famille Brunier préserve amoureusement. Une terre où elle élève des Gigondas aux personnalités captivantes.

Dans cet écrin de verdure de 130 hectares, 25 sont dévolus à la vigne. Distribuée en restanques, datant de l’époque où le cheval façonnait les paysages, elle profite d’une exposition nord-est. L’on comprend aisément que les frères Brunier, Daniel et Frédéric, dont la réputation du Vieux Télégraphe n’est plus à faire, ont eu un coup de cœur. En 1998, ils s’associent à leur ami importateur américain Kermit Lynch, pour acquérir le domaine Les Pallières à la famille Roux.

Maison, bâtiments agricoles, cave forment un hameau. Il y a même une chapelle construite par un lointain ancêtre qui laisse présager d’un train de vie confortable. Ici, coule une source, assez vaillante pour alimenter trois bassins. Inépuisable, même en période de canicule, elle assure le ravitaillement pour tous les travaux agricoles. Il y a peu, un troupeau de 60 chèvres Rove complété l’image d’Épinal d’une époque, pas si lointaine, où les vignerons vivaient de la polyculture, presque en autarcie. « Mon bonheur, c’est de construire ici. C’est un bijou », assure Daniel Brunier. Vingt ans après la construction de la cave et alors que son fils Édouard et ses neveux Manon et Nicolas reprennent les rênes des domaines, il a fait rénover l’écurie pour en faire un caveau. Le menuisier Philippe Mathieu a conservé intact la personnalité rustique et humble du lieu, en y associant une touche contemporaine. Ici, on peut déguster toute la gamme depuis les Ventoux jusqu’aux Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chaque vin à sa propre personnalité avec la signature du terroir dont il est issu. Ils ont pour fil conducteur une liberté maîtrisée, dont l’élevage révèle les subtilités sans les masquer. Exemple avec deux cuvées en AOC Gigondas et un ovni revendiqué rosé, aux allures de blanc.

Terre de Vins a aimé
Au petit bonheur Vin de France rosé 2022 – 15 €
Un blanc de noir composé de clairette, grenache, cinsault, vinifiés et élevés en foudre de 20 hl et en demi-muids venus de Châteauneuf. La robe est blanche, à peine rosée. Bien ouvert, c’est un paysage de fruits secs, d’herbes folles, de foin d’été, de fleur d’acacia où la touche subtile du bois est rémanente. Sa bouche mêle légère tension et rondeur.

Les Terrasses du Diable Gigondas rouge 2021 – 32 €
85 % de grenache, dont 40 % non égrappé et 15 % de mourvèdre, qui culminent à 400 mètres d’altitude, élevés 20 mois en foudre. C’est un bouquet capiteux de roses anciennes. Les premières notes de pruneau et de figue apparaissent et s’associent aux tanins encore marqués. Il faut l’oublier avec sérénité.

Racines Gigondas rouge 2021 – 42 €
Des vieilles vignes de grenache (80 %), syrah, cinsault et clairette complantés. À l’aération, il offre un univers de garrigue. Le cinsault et la clairette apportent une touche de vitalité, la syrah les épices et une finale un peu végétale. Son caractère est tout en relief. Il s’arrondira avec le temps.

https://www.terredevins.com/actualites/domaine-les-pallieres-lecrin-total

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023

16,5. Fresh and honeyed nose. Rich palate and some sweetness. Really textured and weighty, with a warming richness on the finish. Honey, marzipan and fennel. Ripe and layered.
Drink 2027-2036

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023

17. Cask sample. Brimming with red fruits. A real sweetness and firm tannins on the attack – an earthy and spiced note on the mid palate and a rich, layered finish. Pretty sweet sensation of fruit here. Attractive and great concentration of fruit. A baby but shows great potential.
Drink 2028-2040

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2022

17. Cask sample. Juicy, lively, inviting nose. Notes of tabasco and white pepper. Sweet, succulent, tight tannins. Surprisingly open and ready already, yet still has texture and structure.
Drink 2025-2034

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023

16,5. Cask sample. Crushed red fruits, garrigue. The nose is spiced ans has crushed strawberry, sweet fruit and nice, structured tannins. Applealing and needs some years, but well balanced ; the alcohol is not overpowering and there is a freshness to the finish.

Drink 2024 – 2030

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023

17. Cask sample. Very appealing and vibrant nose, which is packed full of drack fruit, thyme and herbal notes. A rich, dense, compact palate with lavender, garrigue and firm but succulent tannins – lovely extraction. Liquorice and leather on the textured finish. Plush and structure.

Drink 2025 – 2033

JANCIS ROBINSON – ALISTAIR COOPER – DÉGUSTATION LE 5 OCTOBRE 2023

GIGONDAS

Domaine Les Pallières, Les Racines 2022
17. Cask sample. Very appealing and vibrant nose, which is packed full of drack fruit, thyme and herbal notes. A rich, dense, compact palate with lavender, garrigue and firm but succulent tannins – lovely extraction. Liquorice and leather on the textured finish. Plush and structure.
Drink 2025 – 2033

Domaine Les Pallières, Terrasse du Diable 2022
16,5. Cask sample. Crushed red fruits, garrigue. The nose is spiced ans has crushed strawberry, sweet fruit and nice, structured tannins. Applealing and needs some years, but well balanced ; the alcohol is not overpowering and there is a freshness to the finish.
Drink 2024 – 2030

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme 2022

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2022

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Clos Roquète 2022

Fresh and honeyed nose. Rich palate and some sweetness. Really textured and weighty, with a warming richness on the finish. Honey, marzipan and fennel. Ripe and layered.
Drink 2027-2036

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90. The 2021 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is another limestone bomb with it’s pretty black raspberries, white truffle, chalky, and white flower-like aromas and flavor. Medium-bodied, elegant, and silky on the palate, it has fine tannins, wonderful balance, and outstanding length. Drink bottles over the coming decade.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90. As always, the 2021 Gigondas Racines is slightly darker styled, with more black raspberry, blackberry and licorice as well as peppery garrigue. Nicely textured and medium-bodied, with good concentration and fine tannins, it’s balanced, has good ripeness, and oustanding length as well.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90. The 2022 Au Petit Bonheur Rosé is another beautiful rosé and one I always love. Mulled cherries, orange, and savory herb notes all define the aromatics, and it’s medium-bodied, with a salty, slightly nutty style ans outstanding lengh. Brought up all in wood, it’s mostly Grenache and Cinsault.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

91-93. The 2022 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable showed brilliantly, with a ripe, sexy style that reeks of limestone, black raspberries, white flowers, chalky minerality, and hints of truffle. Coming from a higher elevation parcel and mostly Grenache, this balanced, layered, elegant Gigondas will shine right out of the gate yet have 15 years of longevity.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

93-95. From older vines around the estate, the 2022 Gigondas Racines is 85% Grenache and balance Syrah and Cinsault, aged two years in foudre. It’s similarly ruby-hued and reveals slightly darker aromatics of black cherries, black licorice, peppery garrigue, an crushed stone. Richer and full-bodied, with slightly more volume compared to the Diable, as well as building tannins, it’s going to need 2-4 years of bottle age.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

88. The 2021 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet showed well, with a spicy, peppery, delicious style. Nicely balanced, medium-bodied, and completely enjoyable, with soft tannins, this total charmer is perfect for enjoying over coming 2-4 years.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90. Black raspberries, juicy cherries, pepper, flowers, and sappy garrigue notes all emerge from the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme, a medium-bodied Burgundian Châteauneuf-du-Pape offering good ripeness and fine tannins. It’s already drinking beautifully and is well woth following over the coming decade.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

92. Another Burgundy styled beauty, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong reveals a light ruby hue as well as a great nose of sweet strawberries, sappy spring flowers, raspberries, and spice. It’s very elegant, medium-bodied, has fine tannins, no hard edges, and outstanging length.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

93. The Grand Vin from this great estate, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Paoe reveals a semi-opaque ruby hue to go with a classic style in its ripe red and black berry fruits, peppery garrigue, leather, earth, black olive and baking spice-driven aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, and balanced, with fine tannins, it’s a beautiful wine in the vintage that should have 15 years of longevity.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

91. A blend of Roussanne, Clairette, and splashed of Vermentino and Grenache Blanc, the 2022 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc was brought up in foudre and demi-muids for a year. It sports a light gold hue as well as a baking spice-driven aromas and flavors. It’s rich, medium-bodied, has good concentration, and a great finish. It’s a seriously good white to drink over the coming couple of years.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

95. Bottled in July but not scheduled for release until January of 2024, the 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos Roquete Blanc is one-third each Grenache, Roussanne, and Clairette that was raised all in wood. It has gorgeous notes of ripe pears, melon, honeyed flowers, spice, and a distinct sense of minerality. With good concentration, medium to full-bodied, and a ripe, layered mouthfeel, it’s another serious while from this team that will absolutely shine on the dinner table.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90-92. Coming from a single vineyard of limestone soils in the Ventoux, the 2022 Ventoux Megaphone reveals a healthy ruby hue to go with a beautiful bouquet of black raspberry, peppery garrigue, and hints of flowers and spice. This wonderfully textured, balanced, layered, and medium to full-bodied red has supple tannins and a great finish.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

87-89. Mostly Grenache but with some Syrah, Carignan, and Cinsault, the 2022 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet has a ripe, supple, delicious style in its black raspberry and assorted cherry-like fruit, and it’s medium-bodied, balanced, has fine tannins, and a good finish. It’s a perfect house red to drink over the coming 4-5 years.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

90-92. The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme is the only 2022 Châteauneuf produced for Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe due to the hailstorm. A field blend (the estate says they have no idea what the final blend was), it’s nevertheless a beautiful Vieux Télégraphe with a classic Vieux Télégraphe nose in its ripe red and black fruits, peppery garrigue, licorice, iron, and distinct minerality. Medium to full-bodied, it has rock-solid concentration, some building, firmer tannins, and remarkable length. It should certainly be an outstanding wine.

JEB DUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 27, 2023

92-94. A blend of 90% Grenache and 100% Mourvèdre (Pignan). The 2022 Châteauneuf du Pape Piedlong sees a touch of stems and is raised in larger foudre for two years. It’s another up-front. Sexy. Perfumed 2022 with spiced red and black fruits, garrigue, and savory flower notes to go with a medium to full-bodied. Layered style on the palate. It has plenty of tannins, but this beauty will show well right out of the gate.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

91. The plump, succulent 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme offers cheerful strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant fruit. It’s medium to full-bodied, silky and elegant, offering plenty of near-term enjoyment. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

91-94. Showing more concentration and intensity than normal, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme also delivers strawberry and cherry notes. It’s medium to full-bodied, with ample tannin and length. I’m sure the quality of this cuvée is scant consolation for the complete loss of the family’s La Crau bottling to hail, but customers should recognize the Bruniers’ efforts to maintain their high standards.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

92. The 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a rather zesty and crisp style with scents of lime and pink grapefruit on the nose. Just medium-bodied, it’s plump and round, showing some lees influence, then clean, refreshing and long, showing excellent intensity and a distinctive character. Tasted twice, with consistent notes..

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

92-94. Roughly one-third each Clairette, Grenache and Roussanne, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was still awaiting bottling at the end of June 2023. Hints of honey accent ripe pineapple aromas in this medium to full-bodied wine, which is plump and round in the mouth, yet it finishes bright and zesty, with ample citrusy length.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

93. Bottled just one week before my 2022 visit, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was showing no ill effects then and confirmed its quality when I retasted it in June 2023. Effusive notes of citrus, white peach and pineapple burst from the glass, while in the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, plump and rounded, with a silky feel and a charming note of fennel on the lingering, refreshing finish. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

92-94. Tasted just prior to bottling, Piedlong’s 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from the lieu-dit of the same name. Scents of roses, red berries and citrus zest appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is silky and elegant, with a hint of cracked pepper on the lingering finish.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

94-96. Taking its name from a lieu-dit, Piedlong is a Brunier family project focused on Grenache Noir from sandy soils, in contrast to the galets roulés that characterize the La Crau bottling from Vieux Télégraphe. The usual blend is 90% Grenache from le Pied Long and 10% Mourvèdre from Pignan. This is a lighter-hued, more ephemeral expression of Grenache and CdP, yet it’s one that can still possess ample aging potential. The 2021 is particularly successful in a challenging vintage, even if it is more of an early-drinker.

A superb effort, Piedlong’s 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is the same blend as typical—90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre—but a step up in quality compared to the 2021. From sandy soils, it delivers delicate florals, alpine strawberries and garrigue-like notes, while being full-bodied, ripe and round in the mouth. Silky, with bright acids, it finishes long, spicy and zesty. Impressive.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

92-94. Still in tank when I visited in June 2023, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features scents of crushed stone accenting ripe cherries and hints of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers taut acids allied to silky tannins and ample length on the finish. It’s not a huge blockbuster, but it fits nicely with the Brunier family’s evolution toward more elegance in their wines. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION LE 20 JUIN 2023

The heart of the expanding Brunier family empire, this is one of the best-known estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, thanks to the family’s obsession with quality and the long-term association with pioneering American importer Kermit Lynch. Other Brunier properties in the region include Clos la Roquête and Piedlong, listed separately but also tasted at Vieux Télégraphe with the gracious Daniel Brunier. The previous summer had not been kind to Vieux Télégraphe, as a violent, tornadic hailstorm struck la Crau the night of August 14-15, 2022. « It was an incredible tornado, » said Brunier. « It destroyed everything in 15 minutes. » All of the fruit that was left subsequently went into the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme—there are no Vieux Télégraphe La Crau bottlings from 2022. « There was a big mistral after the hail, » said Brunier, which allowed the damaged grapes to dry up without spreading rot to anything that was spared. « We ended up picking about four or five hectoliters per hectare from La Crau, » said Brunier. « There were so few grapes, we picked 80 hectares in five days. » Yet all wasn’t somber at Vieux Télégraphe. Brunier quite likes the 2021 vintage, characterizing it as, « a fine, elegant, balanced year. Compared to 2020, it was a bit more normal, with some rain during harvest, which was important for the style of the wine. Generally, speaking, I like the ‘lightness’ of the vintage. I believe in this kind of vintage. We have a classic V.T. » The 2021 V.T. is a solid effort, in line with the family’s recent efforts to get more elegance in their wines. And the white wine shouldn’t be overlooked, either. For more details on Clos la Roquête and Piedlong, please see those listings.2020 Vieux Télégraphe – (93-95)

2021 Vieux Télégraphe – (92-94)

Still in tank when I visited in June 2023, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features scents of crushed stone accenting ripe cherries and hints of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, it offers taut acids allied to silky tannins and ample length on the finish. It’s not a huge blockbuster, but it fits nicely with the Brunier family’s evolution toward more elegance in their wines. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

2022 Piedlong – (94-96)

Taking its name from a lieu-dit, Piedlong is a Brunier family project focused on Grenache Noir from sandy soils, in contrast to the galets roulés that characterize the La Crau bottling from Vieux Télégraphe. The usual blend is 90% Grenache from le Pied Long and 10% Mourvèdre from Pignan. This is a lighter-hued, more ephemeral expression of Grenache and CdP, yet it’s one that can still possess ample aging potential. The 2021 is particularly successful in a challenging vintage, even if it is more of an early-drinker.

2021 Piedlong – (92-94)

Tasted just prior to bottling, Piedlong’s 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from the lieu-dit of the same name. Scents of roses, red berries and citrus zest appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is silky and elegant, with a hint of cracked pepper on the lingering finish.

2021 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93

Bottled just one week before my 2022 visit, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was showing no ill effects then and confirmed its quality when I retasted it in June 2023. Effusive notes of citrus, white peach and pineapple burst from the glass, while in the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, plump and rounded, with a silky feel and a charming note of fennel on the lingering, refreshing finish. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

2022 Clos Roquète – (92-94)

Roughly one-third each Clairette, Grenache and Roussanne, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc was still awaiting bottling at the end of June 2023. Hints of honey accent ripe pineapple aromas in this medium to full-bodied wine, which is plump and round in the mouth, yet it finishes bright and zesty, with ample citrusy length.

2021 Clos Roquète – 92

The 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a rather zesty and crisp style with scents of lime and pink grapefruit on the nose. Just medium-bodied, it’s plump and round, showing some lees influence, then clean, refreshing and long, showing excellent intensity and a distinctive character. Tasted twice, with consistent notes..

2022 Télégramme – (91-94)

Showing more concentration and intensity than normal, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme also delivers strawberry and cherry notes. It’s medium to full-bodied, with ample tannin and length. I’m sure the quality of this cuvée is scant consolation for the complete loss of the family’s La Crau bottling to hail, but customers should recognize the Bruniers’ efforts to maintain their high standards.

2021 Télégramme – 91

The plump, succulent 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme offers cheerful strawberry, raspberry and redcurrant fruit. It’s medium to full-bodied, silky and elegant, offering plenty of near-term enjoyment. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

LA RVF – N°674 – OCTOBRE 2023 – ROBERTO PETRONIO

95/100

La « porte d’entrée » de ce domaine historique est devenue une cuvée à part entière, car elle n’est plus uniquement composée de jeunes vignes mais aussi d’une partie des vignes de l’ancien domaine de la Roquette. Son parfum somptueux nous mène vers des senteurs de coulis de fruits rouges. Fin et gracieux, tout en délié de texture, ce vin est tenu par des tanins délicats, avec un fruit appétant et gourmand.

LA RVF – N°674 – OCTOBRE 2023 – ROBERTO PETRONIO

97-98/100

Issue d’une vigne située au point culminant de l’appellation, cette cuvée parcellaire provenant du secteur de Pignan est à dominante de grenache, avec 1O% de mourvèdre sur sable. Elle sent la fraise à peine cuite, mais surtout le bois de rose. Un vin sapide et élégant doté d’un muscle long et fin, légèrement introverti. Vinifié sans SO₂. Ses 15,5° sont harmonieusement contrebalancés par une intense salinité. Très belle réussite.

LA RVF – N°674 – OCTOBRE 2023 – ROBERTO PETRONIO

98-99/100

Archétype du grand vin issu du terroir de La Crau, il est vinifié partiellement en grappes entières afin d’absorber les degrés qui grimpent vite dans ce secteur. Il développe une aromatique somptueuse où le floral domine. Un nez profond qui résonne à travers une matière fraîche et pleine mais sérieuse car profilée par des tanins serrés et fins qui le destinent à la garde.

LA RVF: CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021, TOUT EN DÉLICATESSE – N°674 OCTOBRE 2023

Millésime après millésime, le vignoble de Châteauneuf-du-Pape ne cesse de nous fasciner par la diversité de ses terroirs, le goût de ses vins, mais aussi par son histoire car son syndicat célèbre cette année ses 100 ans. Oublions l’image d’Epinal véhiculée par les galets roulés, qui n’est que la partie émergée de cette appellation méridionale de la Vallée du Rhône, et concentrons nous sur son sous-sol riche en argile et en safres, véritable réservoir pour maintenir la terre humide, condition indispensable à l’épanouissement du vignoble.

Preuve en est, […] le célèbre domaine du Vieux Télégraphe a eu la bonne idée de […] créer un lieu de stockage où quelques milliers de bouteilles pourront vieillir sereinement une à plusieurs décennies. Un endroit parfait pour explorer les entrailles de l’appellation, car en franchissant la porte qui sépare leur chai de cette cave sous forme de galerie, nous avons été saisis par la fraîcheur et l’humidité qui régnaient dans ce lieu. Une température constante de 14° C tout au long de l’année, avec une humidité digne d’une crayère champenoise. Une cave creusée dans un matériau compact tel un sable compressé d’une densité incroyable et qui n’a nécessité aucune armature pour soutenir les galeries voûtées, à l’image de celles creusées dans le tuffeau dans la Vallée de la Loire. […]

« Il se passe quelque chose d’assez extraordinaire à Châteauneuf-du-Pape »

Lire l’article complet ici

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

92 pts. Very distinctive nose of quince, ripe pear, orange blossom and rose. Mouth-filling richness and a wonderful creamy texture pull you onto their magic carpet and take you for a ride. Then the restrained tannins come through and give the finish a wonderful tension in spite of the soft acidity. A blanc de noirs made from grenache and cinsault, fermented and matured in 600-liter wooden casks. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

91 pts. Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne,10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brunier family lives. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

93 pts. Here’s a rich, but beautifully crafted Gigondas that’s brimming with red fruits and spice. Also notes of licorice and rosemary. Impressive interplay of generous earthy tannins and damson plum richness at the ample finish. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

95 pts. A very deep, dark and dense Gigondas that nonetheless has great balance and finesse. Great dried Mediterranean herb complexity, but also stacks of licorice. Then comes wonderful freshness at the powerful and velvety finish. 90% grenache, 5% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

94 pts. A powerful and bold white Chateauneuf with a lovely freshness. Plenty of melted butter character, but also stacks of floral honey and dried flowers. Beautiful integration of fine tannins and moderate acidity at the long finish. Single vineyard. There’s sandy soil, like at Rayas. A blend of one-third each of grenache blanc, clairette and roussanne. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

94 pts. An excellent introduction to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of damson plum, bitter chocolate and savory on the nose. Rich and dense but with plenty of vitality, and as it flows over the palate more and more spicy, wild herb and balsamic nuances emerge. A cuvee of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 6% mourvedre and 4% cinsault from a variety of terroirs within the appellation. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

95 pts. Very spicy and savory with grilled rosemary and dried flower nuances. Very powerful but extremely focused with a great mineral freshness and salinity, it’s really hard to believe this easily has 15% alcohol! Very fine tannins and a delicate vegetal quality that makes them feel even more lively. Long extremely animating finish with so much Mediterranean herb character. 90% grenache and 10% mourvedre. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 Avril 2023

95 pts. Stunningly complex nose of dried flowers, beeswax and candied citrus peel. However, the interplay of richness and freshness on the palate tops it. Extremely long finish where the fine tannins build and build at the salty climax. A cuvee based on clairette with grenache blanc, roussanne and a little bourboulenc. Some of the vines date back more than a century, but the majority are about 40-50 years old. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 18 avril 2023

97pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 18 AVRIL 2023

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

97 pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021

PIEDLONG – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

Very spicy and savory with grilled rosemary and dried flower nuances. Very powerful but extremely focused with a great mineral freshness and salinity, it’s really hard to believe this easily has 15% alcohol! Very fine tannins and a delicate vegetal quality that makes them feel even more lively. Long extremely animating finish with so much Mediterranean herb character. 90% grenache and 10% mourvedre. Drink or hold.

TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019

CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

RACINES – GIGONDAS 2020

95pts. A very deep, dark and dense Gigondas that nonetheless has great balance and finesse. Great dried Mediterranean herb complexity, but also stacks of licorice. Then comes wonderful freshness at the powerful and velvety finish. 90% grenache, 5% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

TERRASSES DU DIABLE – GIGONDAS 2020

PIGEOULET BLANC – VIN DE PAYS VAUCLUSE 2022

AU PETIT BONHEUR – VIN DE FRANCE 2022

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez frais, floral, poudre de cacao, c’est très agréable, ne fait pas son âge.
La bouche est équilibrée, les tanins sont gracieux, la finale présente une certaine douceur pour commencer, suivi rapidement par des notes épicées.

A déguster dès maintenant.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Très joli nez de fruits gourmands, complexe et minéral aussi.
La bouche est un mélange à la fois de fraise confite, pate de coing et cuir, musc ; c’est assez surprenant.
Très beau millésime, le premier de Piedlong. Comme à ses débuts, il nous fascine.

A déguster sans attendre.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

On retrouve sensiblement la trame des 2013 ; 2012 fait partie de ces millésimes caractérisés par la fraîcheur des fruits, la minéralité. Le nez présente quelques signes d’évolution sans excès.
La bouche est serrée, sérieuse, les tanins sont encore bien présents mais patinés, c’est droit, charnu, juteux et épicé.

A boire.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Le nez est marqué par le végétal, feuilles mortes, sous-bois, c’est légèrement fumé aussi.
La bouche présente quelques signes d’évolution mais reste fraîche, minérale, harmonieuse ; Des arômes à la fois fumés et de cacao amer en poudre se mélangent. Les acidités sont magnifiques, portent le vin, lui donnent de la longueur, de la droiture.

A boire pour le plaisir ou à garder encore quelques années.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Le nez est délicat, presque floral, notes qui d’ailleurs caractérisent ce millésime depuis le tout début.
En bouche, ce sont des arômes de fruits mûrs, avec beaucoup de finesse, de l’élégance.

A déguster sans plus attendre.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Le nez est d’abord austère, difficile d’accès. 2015, lui aussi issu d’un été très chaud et sec.
On est en présence d’un superbe millésime traversant une période de fermeture, dirait-on.
On est plutôt sur des notes empyreumatiques, c’est fumé, minéral.

L’équilibre se cherche, la bouche est plus ouverte mais il est préférable de patienter encore quelques temps.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez ouvert, des notes de fruits gourmands, presque confiturés, le végétal est aussi présent, laurier. C’est dense et vineux.
La bouche est sérieuse, structurée, belle richesse, c’est équilibré ; invite à la table. Accompagnera magnifiquement bien une épaule ou un gigot d’agneau confit, mariné au thym.

A ouvrir mais peut attendre sans aucun souci.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez végétal et d’épices. Millésime issu d’une année particulièrement chaude et sèche, il fait partie des plus petites récoltes, en matière de volume, que notre région ait connues depuis les 40 dernières années. Très beau millésime ici mais dans une phase de fermeture.
La bouche est un peu dure, s’ouvre sur des arômes de pain d’épices, bourgeons de cassis.

A garder.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Joli nez de griottes à l’alcool, il est ouvert et invite la bouche.
Malgré un peu d’austérité au départ, on retrouve les fruits à alcool, la griotte, arrivent ensuite les notes de poudre de cacao amer qui viennent souligner la fin de bouche.
C’est fin, long et équilibré.

A garder.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez ouvert, agréable. On perçoit des notes un peu chaudes, le fruit est confit presque caramélisé mais pas d’alcool, des notes de vanille lui apportent beaucoup de gourmandise.
La bouche est assez similaire au nez, elle est ample et généreuse.

Les amateurs de Gigondas y trouveront leur compte. A ouvrir bien sûr.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez présentant des signes d’évolution, notes de noyau de pruneau.
Ce millésime fut tout petit en volume. La bouche est évoluée elle aussi, légèrement chaleureuse, on a un petit déséquilibre.

Il va falloir l’attendre encore un peu.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez encore jeune, surprenant. On est en présence de fruits bien noirs, ça sent bon la garrigue, le laurier, le thym.
La bouche est souple, assez fluide, les tanins sont bien intégrés et ronds. Ce millésime a quelque chose de vraiment magique.

A découvrir ou redécouvrir sans attendre.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez aux arômes de fruits noirs, confits, léger fumé et cuir.
La bouche est fraîche, digeste, un peu courte mais cette bouteille procure beaucoup de plaisir.
C’est un millésime à boire, 2014 faut-il le rappeler est un millésime frais, plutôt pluvieux, ce qui lui vaut d’être classé dans les millésimes dits « digestes ».

A boire donc.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Nez légèrement évolué, le fruit est présent, plutôt gourmand mais on est surpris par une certaine austérité.
Les arômes secondaires dominent la bouche, l’équilibre est là mais il faudra être encore un peu patient pour une expression plus harmonieuse du niveau qualitatif de ce 2015.

A garder sinon à ouvrir 2 heures avant de passer à table.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Superbe nez, floral, pivoine…c’est fin et élégant.
La bouche est très agréable, griotte, c’est doux, digeste, dentelé. Belle présence, c’est long et équilibré, surprenant par son accessibilité.

A garder mais il est permis de craquer.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Belle couleur.
Le nez présente une légère évolution, chaud sans être lourd. Grand millésime de Racines, on est en présence de fruits bien mûrs, légèrement confiturés ; la fraîcheur et la gourmandise sont au rendez-vous.
La bouche se fait velours, les tanins sont onctueux, c’est dense, profond et ample. Belle finale.

Très belle bouteille que nous pouvons encore oublier quelques années.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Année de la coulure…le nez est un peu discret, il s’exprime plutôt sur les notes végétales, fraiches, mentholées.
La bouche est bien structurée avec une forte personnalité. 17 fait partie de ces millésimes « séveux », où les arômes de thym, de garrigue, de réglisse (bâton de réglisse) prédominent sur le fruit. Les tanins sont bien intégrés, la bouche est longue et marquée par les épices.
Bel équilibre.

2017 est en phase d’évolution, il pourrait se boire dès maintenant, avec une bonne aération mais on peut tout à fait patienter.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Jolie couleur.
Premier nez très fruit, c’est gourmand. On perçoit la profondeur et une certaine douceur.
A l’aération le nez évolue sur des notes de fruits rouges confiturés, c’est harmonieux.
La bouche est fluide, très agréable, juteuse. C’est très digeste. Il se dégage une belle énergie.
2018 fait partie à Gigondas des années de maturités normales mais comme toujours la récolte est très petite.

A déguster pour le plaisir.

COMMENTAIRES DE DÉGUSTATION PAR L’ÉQUIPE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – LE 8 FÉVRIER 2023

Très belle couleur.
Nez de fruits mûrs. Belle maturité. C’est épicé, ça sent bon la garrigue.
En bouche les tanins sont encore un peu durs, et il sera nécessaire d’attendre quelques années pour qu’ils s’assouplissent. C’est en effet une année de petits rendements et nous avons dans cette cuvée environ 40% de raisins non égrappés, ce qui peut engendrer quelques conséquences sur la texture des tanins, pendant un certain temps en tous cas.
La bouche est nerveuse, fraîche, équilibrée. L’ensemble est très aérien.

A attendre.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

Coming from the Ventoux and Côtes Du Rhône regions, the 2021 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc is a quality white from this estate that has crisp aromatics of sliced apple, pear, and hints of citrus. It’s medium-bodied and nicely balanced on the palate, and one heck of a house white to enjoy over the coming couple of years, if not longer. 89 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

Mostly Grenache yet with more Carignan due to frost, the 2021 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet has a charming, forward, delicious, and ready-to go-style as well as classic peppery dark fruits, violets, and hints of flowers. It will be a rock-solid daily drinker. 87-88 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

Leading off the 2020s now from bottle, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is round, expansive, and has plenty of volume, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, ground pepper, and Provençal garrigue. It’s balanced, has ripe tannins, brings plenty of fruit and intensity, and is perfect for drinking over the coming decade. 92 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

Production was down 30% due to frost, but the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is solid, with a medium-bodied, fresh, and lively style as well as attractive darker berry fruits, peppery herbs, and a kiss of minerality. It’s an elegant, balanced wine that will drink nicely for 5-7 years, probably longer. 89-91 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong is lighter ruby-hued, and despite coming from pebbly soils, I would have guessed it came from a sandy terroir if tasted blind. Strawberries, cherries, white flowers, and a touch of chalky minerality define the nose, and it’s medium-bodied and finesse-driven on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins. Readers that love a more Burgundian style in their Châteauneuf du Pape should seek this puppy out. 93 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Piedlong comes from a site in the center of the appellation and is mostly Grenache. It’s another pretty, elegant wine from this estate and has a floral character as well as notes of ripe cherries, darker strawberries, spice, and garrigue. It has fine tannins, good balance, and outstanding length. 90-92 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

I always love this white, and the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc Clos Roquete Blanc is no exception. Pure, clean, and elegant, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe lemon, honeysuckle, and white flowers, it has a pretty, seamless, impeccably balanced profile and is already impossible to resist. 94 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape also showed well, with a lighter, elegant style that still brings plenty of intensity. Black cherries, mulberries, dried violets, and loamy earth define the bouquet, and it’s medium-bodied, balanced, and finesse-driven on the palate, with ripe tannins as well as a terrific sense of salinity on the finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15+. 94 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is showing even better today than when I tasted it last year. Pear, stone fruits, and crushed stone as well as a kiss of black licorice emerge on the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a great mid-palate, flawless balance, and a wonderful sense of freshness and purity. Give bottles another year or two, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 15+ years. 96 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc might be one of the best examples of this white that’ I’ve tasted. Incredible pear, white flowers, salty minerality, and hints of ripe citrus define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied on the palate, has remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc that’s brought up mostly in foudre (there’s a small part in demi-muids and barrel), it deserves 2-3 years in the cellar and will have two decades or more of overall longevity. 97 pts.

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

The Grand Vin is always from the heart of the La Crau lieu-dit and is 65% Grenache with the balance Mourvedre and Syrah. The 2021 saw about 30% stems and is being brought up in foudre. It has a beautiful core of red fruits (strawberries and redcurrants) as well as classic notes of crushed stone, pepper, garrigue, and sandalwood. Playing in the medium-bodied, elegant, seamless end of the spectrum, it has fine tannins and outstanding length. It’s a pretty, silky, impressive 2021 with class. 92-94 pts.

PRESENTATION DE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE 2007 A VINAPOGEE

Présentation des Vieux Télégraphe rouge et blanc 2007 au salon Vinapogée qui se tiendra à Paris le 16 Janvier 2023.

Entrée : 50€

Inscription via le lien : https://www.vinapogee.com/levenement/

EXPOSITION DE CERAMIQUES DE L’ARTISTE JULIE SOLO – NUE CERAMIQUE

Julie Solo, à l’origine de Nue Céramique, est une jeune créatrice qui a laissé son ancien métier d’infirmière pour se lancer dans la création de céramiques. Basée à Saint Bonnet le Froid, en Haute Ardèche, elle s’inspire de la nature environnante sauvage et souvent rude, elle envisage une céramique raffinée aux irrégularités subtiles. Elle a su séduire les chefs des restaurants gastronomiques et vous pouvez retrouver ses créations dans les maisons Marcon.

Formée aux techniques de la céramique coréenne, elle utilise le grès chamotté et l’englobe de porcelaine.

Chaque pièce est façonnée à la main, la cuisson ne peut se faire que 8 assiettes à la fois, la patine légère joue sur la transparence. Les empreintes végétales sont personnalisables, graminées, fougères, sapins, à vous de choisir !

A découvrir au domaine tout le mois de décembre 2022 et à suivre sur Instagram : nue.ceramique

DÉGUSTATION PAR JEB DUNNUCK AU DOMAINE – LE 11 NOVEMBRE 2022

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2021 – 92-94

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE BLANC 2021 – 97

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE BLANC 2020 – 96

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2020 – 94

CLOS ROQUETE 2021 – 94

PIEDLONG 2021 – 90-92

PIEDLONG 2020 – 93

TELEGRAMME 2021 – 89-91

TELEGRAMME 2020 – 92

PIGEOULET ROUGE 2021 – 87-88

PIGEOULET BLANC 2021 – 89

WINE SPECTATOR MAGAZINE – TOP 100 WINES OF 2022

Châteauneuf-du-Pape . Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe – La Crau 2019 : 71/100

Silky and refined, with focused cherry puree, plum reduction and raspberry coulis notes racing through, infused subtly with rose petal, warm stone and lavender hints. Features nice perfume through the finish.

James Molesworth

EXPOSITION DES ŒUVRES DE LILIAN EUZEBY, du 24 juin au 26 août 2022

“Lilian Euzéby connaît bien la peinture et son histoire. Il l’étudie depuis plus de trente ans. Il sait la texture, la souplesse, le liquide, le sec, le rugueux, le doux, le suave. Il sait la composition, la profondeur, les révolutions, les explosions, les perspectives, les retours en arrière, les modernes, les avant-gardes d’avant-hier, les rixes insignifiantes, la grossièreté du marché. Il voit la forme et le fond, celui de la terre et du ciel, celui du vide et du sacré.”

Exposition d’œuvres récentes, où le spectateur curieux, pourra ainsi se perdre dans un parcours étrange, mélancolique parfois, construit sur des paysages déroutants et métaphysiques où le présent, le futur, le passé se superposent et se confondent.

ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE – JOE CZERWINSKI – DÉGUSTATION SEPT. 2021

I arrived at VT during the 2021 harvest; they hadn’t picked the previous two days, waiting for the vineyards to dry out a bit after the second of two rain events. « You can’t have two storms like this without having some effect on structure and concentration, » said Daniel Brunier. « Here, at least, we had no [spring] frost, but we lost 80% in the Ventoux. » Although I tasted those wines during this visit, the Famille Brunier wines from other appellations will be covered in the next installment of Southern Rhône coverage. Piedlong is still listed here, while Clos la Roquete has its own listing, basically since that’s the way they’ve long been listed in our database. Going forward, those, too, will be listed under the Famille Brunier umbrella. Looking at the 2019s and 2020s from this historic estate in quick succession, the differences between the vintages were readily apparent, with the 2019s being darker-fruited and perhaps a bit more structured. « The vintages are brothers, » said Brunier. « The tannins in ’19 are a bit more dry. It’s rare to have two vintages together that are so similar. The differences are there, but not that much. The biggest difference is in the tannin structure. « The 2020 vintage was very dry until the end—maybe a bit too dry—but the rains in November and December 2019 helped, and the low yield means you don’t see the dryness, because the vines didn’t suffer. Harvest began August 22 or 23, and we finished on September 19. The fruit was so clean, the weather so dry, it was easy to pick. » A visit to Vieux Telegraphe also means a chance to revisit past vintages, so Brunier opened bottles of the 2011 and 2001. « Arriving after 2010, which was great, I don’t have a good memory of that vintage [2011], » said Brunier. But the wine showed well, mature and nicely evolved yet still offering a few more years of drinkability. Of 2001, Brunier remarked, « It was a normal summer, normal rain at normal times, with no big, defining feature. But this is the kind of vintage I can drink a bottle by myself. It’s not a big vintage by the numbers, but it has aged well because it is balanced. » Amen to that.

2020 Vieux Télégraphe – (93-95)

Tasted as a tank sample of the final blend, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is a blend of approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties, with about 30% whole bunches used in the ferments. Marked by ripe cherries and hints of complex garrigue notes on the nose, it’s full-bodied but also really elegant, with fine-grained, silky tannins, ample concentration and a long, surprisingly crisp finish.

2011 Vieux Télégraphe – 93

Showing beautifully on this occasion, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a bit of bricking, with hallmark notes of iodine, sweet red cherries and a delicate touch of fine leather. Medium to full-bodied and bolstered by soft tannins, it finishes long, with notes of salted licorice. I wouldn’t plan on holding it much longer, but it should please those looking for a mature bottle over the next few years.

2001 Vieux Télégraphe – 95

Showing a bit of brick at the rim, Vieux Telegraphe’s 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape remains a wonderfully complex, vibrant wine. Marked by scents of pressed flowers, a hint of button mushrooms and plenty of cherry-raspberry fruit, it’s medium to full-bodied and silky textured, finishing long and complex.

2019 Vieux Télégraphe – 96+

The 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau is a hugely successful vintage, marked by scents of sun-warmed stones, garrigue, black cherries and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it finishes with tremendous length and softly dusty tannins, which should help ensure a long, positive evolution.

2020 Piedlong – (94-96)

The 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong is 90% Grenache from the lieu-dit le Pied Long (sometimes written as one word), plus 10% Mourvèdre from Pignan, so sandy soils—in contrast to Vieux Telegraph’s preponderance of la Crau’s galets roulés. At 50% whole bunches, it’s a bit stemmy and herbal but also soaring and gorgeous on the nose, with scents of roses, menthol, cherries and raspberries. Full-bodied but airy in feel and silky in texture, with a long, lingering finish, it looks to be pretty special this vintage.

2019 Piedlong – 95

From largely sandy soils, and composed of 90% Grenache (the other 10% is Mourvèdre from the Pignan lieu-dit, also sandy), the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong delivers scents of black cherries and ripe plums, tinged with hints of menthol and green stemminess. Give it a couple of years in the cellar, and it should be singing, as it’s full-bodied, rich and velvety, while remaining long, vibrant and mouthwatering on the finish.

2020 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93

Coming from a single parcel of 50- to 55-year-old vines in la Crau, Vieux Telegraph’s 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of roughly 45% Clairette and 30% Grenache Blanc, with the balance split equally between Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Two-thirds were matured in foudre, with the other third matured in demi-muids, leading to a slightly honeyed nose with hints of toasted grain and gently warmed pineapple. It’s full-bodied and creamy, balanced by a hint of bitterness on the long finish.

2019 Vieux Télégraphe blanc – 93

Hitting on all cylinders, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc boasts enchanting aromas of toasted grain, honeyed pears and ripe pineapple, with what seems like a bit of mocha or struck match as well. It’s full-bodied, on the rich, corpulent side, but not overdone, remaining clean and citrusy-fresh on the lengthy finish.

2020 Clos Roquète – 92

From 40-year-old vines on sandy soils, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, matured in demi-muids and foudres. Hints of honey, toasted grain and ripe pineapple appear on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is clean, fresh and citrusy, finishing with an appealingly silky texture and ample length.

2019 Clos Roquète – 93

A blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc features notes of honey, wood spice (it’s matured in foudres and demi-muids) and pineapple. Full-bodied, rich and expansive without being heavy, it finishes with hints of citrus, a slightly chalky feel and plenty of length.

2020 Télégramme – (91-93)

Comprising old vines not from la Crau or le Pied Long (two years ago, the Bruniers purchased eight hectares of 60-year-old Grenache, specifically for this cuvée) and young vines from those lieux-dits, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme delivers pretty notions of strawberries and raspberries, plus just a hint of chocolate. Full-bodied but silky, fine and elegant, this looks like the finest wine I’ve tasted under this label—a solid wine of its own.

2019 Télégramme – 92

Full-bodied, rich and highly textural, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme is atypically concentrated and dense, reflecting the addition of more old-vine Grenache to the cuvée. Black cherries, salted licorice and dark chocolate all make appearances, and the wine finishes long and velvety.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

96 pts. This shows the greatness that Gigondas is capable of. A huge wine, but with great structure and aromatic complexity that takes your breath away. Big black fruit, but so many herbal and savory nuances, then comes the long, smoky and meaty finish. Excellent aging potential. A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Il vient apporter la preuve que 20 ans est un bien bel âge. Fraîcheur des accents mentholés, cuir frais, peau tannée en douceur « avant de transpirer sur le cheval » et puis des notes de cyprès et de pierre blache dans la chaleur d’un matin d’été au jardin des Alyscamps en Arles. Pourtant la fraîcheur est énorme qui le rend désalterant, pas une once de lourdeur, les cerises craquantes et le rouge éclatant de la tunique écarlate d’un empereur romain. Vingt ans et la vie devant soi.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

C’est son équilibre qui l’a mené si loin dans ce millésime honnête. Frangrances de papier bible, des arômes automnaux, de chrysanthème frais, le cousu-main d’une dentelle d’Arlésienne au regard profond, une merveille de délicatesse, les hanches souple, promesse érotique.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Il a 15 ans cet élégant qui balade ses commencements truffés, son balancement velouté et ces gestes purs qui n’appartiennent qu’à lui. Une succession de vagues de La Mer de Debussy, des éclats de lumière pourpre, des notes prolongées à l’infini. Celui-là se boira sans cesse excellent, Daniel Brunier l’affirme : « Il sera toujours plus patient que toi. » Nous vieillirons ensemble, c’est le mouvement perpétuel du Boléro de Ravel, sa finale est éternelle.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

94. A powerful and mouth-filling white Chateauneuf with a very mineral personality and excellent textural complexity. The freshness makes this feel lighter than it really is. Long finish with plenty of dried-herb character. Has the potential to age for many years. A blend of 35% Clairette, 35% Roussanne and 30% grenache blanc from 40-year-old vines on sandy soil. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 7 MARS 2022

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2019

97 pts. If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.

PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019

96 pts. This Chateauneuf beautifully marries the delicate floral side of grenache with stunning depth and lovely richness on the mid-palate. Wonderful, velvety finish that goes on and on, making you want more of this great beauty. Drink or hold.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

95 pts. Plenty of fresh-nut character, plus notes of bread dough and candied lemon on the enticing nose. Rich and creamy palate, the underlining stony character complementing this very neatly. Long and complete finish with serious textural and mineral complexity. From the Domaine du Vieux Télégraph stable. Drink or hold.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2019

95 pts. Very dense and complex with aromas ranging from black plum to wild thyme, as well as hints of candied orange, smoke and dry earth. In spite of all the richness and concentration of this imposing Gigondas, the slightly rustic tannins give this a lot of drive and accentuate the freshness. Long, chalky finish. Drink or hold.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2019

CLOS ROQUÈTE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

94 pts. A powerful and mouth-filling white Chateauneuf with a very mineral personality and excellent textural complexity. The freshness makes this feel lighter than it really is. Long finish with plenty of dried-herb character. Has the potential to age for many years. A blend of 35% Clairette, 35% Roussanne and 30% grenache blanc from 40-year-old vines on sandy soil. Drink or hold.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2019

94 pts. Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VENTOUX MÉGAPHONE 2020

92 pts. A fragrant and surprisingly elegant Ventoux with a healthy tannin structure on the medium body and nice freshness at the long, mineral finish. Drink now.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET ROUGE 2020

90 pts. A generous Vaucluse red with plenty of ripe-blackberry fruit and wild-herb aromas supported by supple tannins. Some smoke and pepper at the full, harmonious finish. A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 5% mourvèdre and 5% carignan. Drink now.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2020

96-97. Such a deep and meaty nose with a slew of wild-herb, savory and subtle balsamic notes. Then comes the expansive and very concentrated palate, which reveals so many spicy nuances as it rolls over the palate, the stunning fine tannins pushing the finish out even further. A grenach-based blend from 60-year-old vines.

PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

94-95. This beautiful Rhône red will delight Burgundy fans. A fragrant Châteauneuf, in which grenache shows its floral side. So juicy, but this glides over your palate, the balance of creamy richness and elegant tannins spot on. Long, graceful and delicate finish. A blend of 90% grenache and 10% mourvèdre.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2020

91-92. Both bright and fleshy, this is a very good introduction to Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Plenty of damson plum and bright cherry with a touch of plum-cake character. A solid core of tannins keeps the palate dry and straight. Good lenght, if not that complex at the finish.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2020

95-96. Enormously deep and powerful, but the full and fine tannins hold this mighty ship on course straight into the sunset. Great forest-berry aromas, but at the finish the wild-herb character expands and expands. Excellent aging potential! A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2020

94-95. Deep nose of damson plum and ripest blackberry with subtle savory, soy sauce and wild herb notes. Very powerful and expansive palate with a majoy tannin structure that gives this a lot of drive and energy. Long, concentrated finish with impressive freshness for this appellation. A blend of 90% grenache, 5% mourvèdre, and 5% clairette.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET 2021

89-90. Vivid blackberry fruit and slightly sappiness on the palate make this a refreshing red, in spite of the fullish body. Gently tannins support the clean finish nicely.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET BLANC 2021

89-90. Quite some yeasty character from sur-lie maturation with ripe yellow apple character and some herbal freshness. Generous body with discreet fruit, but a clean finish.

LES PALLIÈRES VIN DE FRANCE AU PETIT BONHEUR 2021

91-92. This pale rosé from the Gigondas appellation is all about textural complexity and elegance. Delicate peach and melon character. Long and supple, but clean finish.

JAMESSUCKLINE.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

92. A fragrant and surprisingly elegant Ventoux with a healthy tannin structure on the medium body and nice freshness at the long, mineral finish. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

89-90. Quite some yeasty character from sur-lie maturation with ripe yellow apple character and some herbal freshness. Generous body with discreet fruit, but a clean finish.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

90. A generous Vaucluse red with plenty of ripe-blackberry fruit and wild-herb aromas supported by supple tannins. Some smoke and pepper at the full, harmonious finish. A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 5% mourvèdre and 5% carignan. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

89-90. Vivid blackberry fruit and slightly sappiness on the palate make this a refreshing red, in spite of the fullish body. Gently tannins support the clean finish nicely.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

91-92. This pale rosé from the Gigondas appellation is all about textural complexity and elegance. Delicate peach and melon character. Long and supple, but clean finish.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

95. Very dense and complex with aromas ranging from black plum to wild thyme, as well as hints of candied orange, smoke and dry earth. In spite of all the richness and concentration of this imposing Gigondas, the slightly rustic tannins give this a lot of drive and accentuate the freshness. Long, chalky finish. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

94. Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

95. Plenty of fresh-nut character, plus notes of bread dough and candied lemon on the enticing nose. Rich and creamy palate, the underlining stony character complementing this very neatly. Long and complete finish with serious textural and mineral complexity. From the Domaine du Vieux Télégraph stable. Drink or hold.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022 – DÉGUSTATION SUR CUVE

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – STUART PIGOTT – 7 MARS, 2022

97. If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

EN MAGNUM

« À 5 ans il semblait au bout, à 10 ans il a fait un palier. » Il monte toujours ! Aujourd’hui il a 36 ans. Ce sont les vieilles vignes qui l’on fait, celles de la 3^eet de la 4^e génération des Brunier, plantées sur le plateau et seulement là. Définition toujours micrométrique, pas un écart, des fruits rouges superbes. Sensualité des courbes épicées, voluptueux, un rayonnement lumineux, heureux, accompli, c’est L’Été de Vivaldi.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Le premier millésime de la 5^e génération, les deux frères Brunier, Daniel et Frédéric, il y a quarante ans. Mentholé, truffée, nerveux, frais et léger comme un matin d’avril sur la Crau, couleur éclatante, tanins doux dessinés à main levée, une pointe épicée. Un quadra jeune et séduisant…

VIGNERON MAGAZINE : LES MESSAGERS DE LA CRAU, VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022

C’est le miracle de la nature et l’œuvre des hommes, un sol pauvre, un dépouillement de pierres, un déferlement de galets roulés, un plateau ouvert aux quatre vents et la vision d’une famille, les Brunier, depuis plus d’un siècle et 6 générations. Sur le terroir de la Crau, royaume du grenache qui partage sa couronne avec quelques autres mais induit puissamment aux vins du Vieux Télégraphe leur charactère et leur âme, s’est écrit l’une des histoires les plus étonnantes de Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Reportage.

[…] Tout ça fait le génie du terroir de la Crau que l’intuition des joueurs de cartes avait flairé : réserve hydrique en allegro moderato au printemps et adagio l’été. […]

[…] Dans ces vins se tient le génie du terroir de la Crau : folle énergie, fraîcheur, pureté sensuelle et ciselure gravée en taille douce. […]

[…] C’est miracle et magie de voir les vignes sous l’accablant soleil étaler leur feuillage charnu à l’insolente verdeur quand ailleurs elle suffoquent. […]

[…] La tour de Claude Chappe a éteint ses feux depuis longtemps. Les signaux lumineux, aujourd’hui ce sont les vins du Vieux Télégraphe qui les envoient au vaste monde, à tous ceux qui aiment les grands vins de beauté d’Henri, Hippolyte, Jules et les autres Brunier, fils de la Crau. […]

Lire l’article complet ici

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Comme Hippolyte, leur ancêtre qui faisait tourner une loterie et avait commencé à planter sur le plateau, ils ont tout misé sur la Crau pour ce blanc et ses clairettes centenaires qui font la moitié du chemin dans la bouteille. Le reste est parcouru par le grenache blanc, la roussanne et le bourboulenc. Bonne pioche, c’est délicieux, une gourmandise subtile, filiforme, verticale, un esprit élevé aussi haut que le Ventoux.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Prélevé dans le chai dédié aux Vieux Télégraphe sur l’un des 19 foudres, précisément le numéro 7, voilà un jeune plein d’avenir, l’éclat de fruit juteux et généreux, l’équilibre, la finesse de la pensée naissante, la promesse d’un millésime de haut niveau. Brillant comme les violons heureux du premier mouvement des Quatre Saison de Vivaldi.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Sur l’étiquette, la gravure de la tour érigée par Claude Chappe, inventeur du télégraphe optique, et l’élégante typo gothique connue dans le monde entier. À l’intérieur du flacon, l’esprit de la terre de la Crau parle sa langue pure et profonde. L’élégance est déjà là, la densité et la richesse contenue aussi, c’est la marque du grenache arrivé tranquillement à maturité. Édouard Brunier le dit ainsi : «Ça grenache grave ! » On touche à la structure architecturale d’un monument construit pour témoigner de la longévite des grands vins d’ici.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

Cette année-là on fut à l’équilibre des rendements, 30 hectolitres par hectare. On a ici le témoignage du comportement sévère fu granche au bout de cinq ans avec à l’attaque des notes de jujube un peu flétri. C’est ce moment d’austérité où le fruit se rassemble, prend son escousse, c’est un instant d’évolution propre aux grands millésimes, tout sauf le déclin, juste un temps de pause en attendant son regain de vitalité. Ce sont les accents graves d’un mouvement lent des suites pour violoncelle de Bach avant les cuivres de Haendel.

VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

« Il faut croire en la Crau ! » C’est Frédéric Brunier qui le dit. Il faut dire que le grenache, toujours dominant dans les vins du Vieux Télégraphe, a l’art de la sinusoïde ascendante, malgré cette année-là un rendement plus faible à 25 hectolitres par hectare. Ce cépage procède par paliers successifs, un chapelet d’apogées qui le mène loin dans le temps au-delà de 50 ans. Il atteint ici le premier avec des notes de cerise noire et de jolis amers caféinés, prolongés par des notes délicatement chocolatées exceptionnelles. Un ardent prince du temps. Toujours cette expression nette des saveurs précises, un tempo équilibré. On songe aux accords du clavecin de Scott Ross dans l’une des sonates de Scarlatti, la ciselure ardente et rythmée.

WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 26 JANVIER, 2022

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphhe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2019

93 points – $105 – 2,841 cases imported – Red

Silky and refined, with focused cherry puree, plum, reduction and raspberry coulis notes racing through, infused subtly with rose petal, warm stone and lavender hints. Features nice perfume through the finish. Grenache, Mouvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Drink now through 2036.

WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 26 JANVIER, 2022

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WHITE LA CRAU 2020
95 points | $87 | 348 cases imported | White

Well-built, with a steady intensity to the waves of white peach, star fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and mirabelle plum. Delivers flashes of lemon shortbread and quinine through the finish, giving it both plump and racy elements. This is hard to lay off now, but it has some development ahead of it. Clairetty, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2030. — J.M.

WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY : A VINTAGE TO CELEBRATE

JAMES MOLESWORTH

Rhône producers are crowing about their 2019s vintage, another vintage where the southern swath of the valley was drenched in sun and heat through the summer. The result is a set of bottlings marked by vivid fruit flavors and lush textures that allow the wines to glide. Maby will age on a fairly rapid (yet delicious) track, while the best examples have well-integrated grip for more serious cellaring.

Here’s a crop of late-release 2019s and a 2020 that missed my annual tasting report on the region (out now in Wine Spectator’s Feb. 28, 2022 issue), but can be explored here in our Insider Weekly. There are impressive wines from lesser-known domaines like Tour St.-Michel, led by vigneron Mireille Porte, as well as Raymond Usseglio, now under the hand of Stéphane Usseglio. There are also wines from more prominent names like Chapoutier, Giraud and Vieux Télégraphe. The latter two also account for two of this week’s Hot Wines: Giraud’s old-vine, Grenache-only cuvée and a spectacular 2020 white from the brothers Brunier.

This edition comes in just in time for the depths of winter, so cue the roasted game birds, mild mushrooms and truffles, and open up one of these delicious Rhône wines. — James Molesworth

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2019
93 points | $105 | 2,841 cases imported | Red

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TELEGRAPHE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WHITE LA CRAU 2020
95 points | $87 | 348 cases imported | White

PIEDLONG 2019
93 points | $65 | 400 cases imported | Red

Shows sneaky richness, as plus paste and cherry preserve notes unwine slowly, carried by silky yet substantial tannins. Features anise, black tea, and a late flash of shiso leaf, which add range through the finish. Alluring. Grenache and Mouvèdre. Best from 2023 through 2036. — J.M.

CLOS ROQUETE 2020
93 point | $59 | 150 cases imported | White

Vivid, with a mix of honeysuckle, white peach, star fruit, acacia, green plum and quinine notes that are racy, lively and well-detailed through the finish. Shows a lovely mineral echo at the end, too. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Drink now through 2026. — J.M.

WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 26 JANVIER, 2022

93 points | $65 | 400 cases imported | Red

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

90-92. A step up in class and elegance, the 2019 Ventoux Megaphone checks in as 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah that’s from a single vineyard in the Ventoux appellation. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a beautifully Provençal nose of spiced red and black fruits, peppery herbs, and flowery incense. With medium to full-bodied richness, a terrific sense of minerality, notable balance, and a lengthy finish, it’s another winner from this team that will impress for another 5-7 years.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

91-92. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah, this has a very rich and attractively ripe feel in 2018. Succulent, dense and very plush tannins carry an assertive, fresh and fleshy feel. There’s a salty mineral note, too. Drink on release.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

89-91. A blend of 66% Grenache and 33% Syrah all from a single vineyard in the Ventoux, the 2018 Ventoux Megaphone is a richer, more serious wine that offers rich black cherry and blackberry fruits as well as plenty of ground pepper and garrigue aromas and flavors. It’s rounded and has good concentration, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. It’s going to keep for 7-8 years.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

93. Super plush, and opulent, offering notes of sweet red plums, raspberry compote and darker blackberries. The palate is bathed in mixed-berry flavor, as well as dark cherries and dark minerals. Starts really supple, then turns fine and tightens through the finish. Noble tannins and darker fruit. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah. A great vintage for this wine! Drink over the next five years.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

89-91. A mix of Grenache and Syrah, the 2017 Ventoux Megaphone offers more depth and richness, as well as structure, over the Pigeoulet. Black raspberries, garrigue, crushed rocks/salty minerality, and licorice notes all flow to a medium-bodied, ripe, concentrated wine that has good acidity, notable tannins, and a good finish. It’s going to benefit from 6-12 months of bottle, and while I don’t see any need to age this beyond that, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this keep for upward of a decade.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

90. Fleshy and enticing, delivering plum sauce and cherry preserve flavors flecked with violet and anise hints. A bright mineral edge carries the finish. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2019. 2,100 cases made.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

91. The more limited release is the 2016 Ventoux Megaphone and it offers more black fruits, pine resin, and sappy herbs, as well as a tight, focused, medium to full-bodied style on the palate. Both this and the le Pigeoulet are terrific values.and pepper, medium body, and a great finish. It’s another terrific quaffer that has loads of charm

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

90. With more richness and mid-palate depth, the 2015 Ventoux Megaphone has the same minerality and saltiness that’s present in the Pigeoulet, as well as plenty of black cherry, white pepper and spice. Drink it anytime over the coming 4-5 years

WINE SPECTATOR -31 OCT 2014 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

88. A bright style, with red currant, pomegranate and floral notes backed by light anise and violet hints. Shows a racy edge through the finish. Drink now. 420 cases imported

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

87. Offering slightly more richness that the Pigeoulet, it has impressive black cherry, black raspberry, spice, crushed flowers and creamy licorice in its medium-bodied, well-made, silky and lively profile. This leans heavily toward the more elegant, pretty and perfumed end of the spectrum, ad will drink nicely for 4-5 years.

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Also a value-priced, high quality effort, the 2012 Megaphone Cotes du Ventoux (70% Grenache and 30% Syrah) comes from a single plot of vines located in the up-and-coming Ventoux region. Currants, garrigue, pepper and Christmas spice show nicely here and this medium-bodied effort has rock-solid fruit, plenty of texture and an easy-drinking profile. It-s worth a multi-bottle purchase and should drink nicely for 3-4 years, if not longer. Drink now-2018. 88 pts

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

90. Starting with the 2019 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc, this beauty is based on Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Roussanne brought up in foudre. This light gold hued white offers a crisp bouquet of honeyed citrus, white flowers, and salty mineral-like notes. These all carry to a medium-bodied white that’s nicely balanced, has a spine of vibrant acidity, and a classy finish. It’s well worth checking out, and while I always think these are best drunk in their youth, I certainly wouldn’t be surprised to see this evolve over 7-8 years given the acidity and concentration.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

88. Made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne (one-third each) and brought up all on foudre, the 2017 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet Blanc sports a medium gold color as well as a beautiful perfume of white flowers, tart citrus, hints of white peach, and salty minerality. It has plenty of texture, good acidity, and will be a screaming by-the-glass wine.

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Looking at the value-priced Vin de Pays bottlings, the 2012 Le Pigeoulet de Brunier VDP Vaucluse Blanc is a blend of equal parts Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette, from 20-year-old vines. Aged all in foudre, it offers a light, elegant profile with crisp citrus and white peach notes to go with a medium-bodied, delicious feel on the palate. It should drink nicely for a year or two. Drink now-2014. 87 pts

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

88-90. Moving to the reds and starting with the 2019 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet, this perennial winner offers a deeper ruby/plum color as well as a great nose of jammy black and red berry fruits intermixed with lots of peppery herbs and earth. Fleshy, medium-bodied, and already delicious, enjoy this on release and over the following 3-5 years. It competes with any number of top Cotes du Rhône out there.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

88-90. A blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah (there are small amounts of other red varieties), the 2018 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet offers a complex style in its kirsch, herbes de Provence, white pepper, and floral aromas and flavors. This beauty is sweetly fruited, with polished tannins, loads of charm, and a great finish.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

90-91. Ripe red cherries and raspberries with a fine palate that has a very sleek, plush and attractive feel. The palate is sappy and plush. 80% grenache, 10-15% carignan and the balance is syrah. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCT, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

92. Pre-bottling from foudre. This has a ripe but fresh feel to it with very attractive berry-compote and spice. There’s a wealth of brambly, red grenache fruit, plenty of spice and a very plush, soft and supple palate with wild raspberries. Drink now.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

88-90. Brought up in foudre, the 2017 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet is a mix of mostly Grenache (there’s a good chunk of Carignan). It sees a long maceration and is handled with the same care this estate puts into their Châteauneuf-du-Papes. It offers real character and elegance as well as ample black cherry, blackberries, peppery herbs, and loamy soil aromas and flavors. It will keep for 4-6 years and is a terrific value.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

88. Bottled in October of last year, the 2016 Vaucluse Le Pigeoulet offers a rounded, sexy, yet pure style as well as lots of cherries and darker berry fruits, hints of underbrush and pepper, medium body, and a great finish. It’s another terrific quaffer that has loads of charm

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

89. The estate releases two serious values from Ventoux. Bottled at the end of July, and I’d wager the best vintage to date, the 2015 Vdp Vaucluse Pigeoulet is a juicy, salty, garrigue and peppery effort that has medium-bodied richness, light tannin and a graceful, elegant character. It plays in the house style and isn’t packed with fruit, but I love its elegance and length.

WINE SPECTATOR -31 OCT 2014 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

88. A textbook version, with lavender, tobacco and licorice snap notes backed by hints of rosemary and wet stone, all set around an open-knit core of cherry and red currant fruit. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan. Drink now. 1,960 cases importe

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

86. Value-priced. Juicy, Fresh and quaffable effort that has plenty of strawberry, raspberry, white pepper and garrigue aromas and flavors. It’s a character filled, bistro-styled effort that has lots to like.

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Looking at the red, the 2012 Le Pigeoulet de Brunier VDP Vaucluse is 80% Grenache and the balance Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan. It offers up sweet red fruits, underbrush, spice and hints of flowers in a reasonably complex, medium-bodied, supple and elegant package. Drink it over the coming 2-3 years. Drink now-2017. 87 pts

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

[…]The looking glass wine in the Brunier range is a year ahead, and if this 2010 Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays du Vaucluse (A$30) is anything to go by the 2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is going to be something really special. The 2010 Le Pigeoulet has a fairly deep red-purple hue and offers much more depth than in most years with ripe and fragrant red fruits, some cherries, chalky flecks, plum and wild herbs. The palate is mapped out on lithe and juicy tannins that roll smooth and deep with dark berry fruits that are nutty to close, really supple and fresh. Great value.

WINE ADVOCATE – 86 pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

One of the finest values in inexpensive, quaffing/bistro-styled wines. A Vin de Pays from the Vaucluse area. Perhaps the best example of this cuvee the Brunier brothers have produced to date. The wine reveals a miduim ruby color along with copious raspberry and cherry notes intermixed with a hint of olive/tapenade, crisp acidity and a medium-bodied, zesty mouthfeel. Drink it over the next year.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 85 pts –

Bistros, brasseries and consumers looking for an easygoing, quaffing wine should check out the Brunier’s Le Pigeoulet, which Daniel Brunier calls a ‘retro’ style of wine (meaning that in the age of power and generosity, this is a lighter, more elegant, fruity, earthy effort meant for immediate consumption). The 2008 and 2009 vintage are cut from the same mold, with the 209 being slightly deeper, with riper fruit. This 5,000 cs cuvee offers considerable value.

GAULT MILLAU – JAN/MARS 11

Gouleyant et Capiteux avec une belle mâche généreuse d\’un grenache ensoleillé. La trame ferme appelle un carafage pour donner la première place aux fruits puis aux épices chaleureuses. Avec une cuisine de tous les jours.

WINE ADVOCATE –30 OCT 2008 – N°179 – ROBERT PARKER

This vintage may be the finest example of this cuvée they have yet produced. Offering copious quantities of strawberry, framboise, and sweet kirsch, soft tannins, a sweet, plush mouthfeel, it is a Provençal style red to enjoy over the next several years. It represents a heck of a bargain.

Un joli millésime de Pigeoulet rouge

C’est frais, friand, bien équilibré, des arômes de fruits rouges, légèrement mentholés, dominent la dégustation. La structure tannique est très discrète et très bien intégrée, la fin est gourmande et tout en finesse ; du plaisir pour tous les jours.

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

Grenat, limpide, jolis reflets. Le nez s’ouvre sur les fruits noirs, légèrement fumé. La bouche est bien équilibrée même si les tanins sont encore bien présents. C’est élégant, fin, harmonieux, soutenu par une belle fraîcheur. Les épices sont là et persistent sur la fin de bouche. Belle longueur. Ce millésime peut être bu dès maintenant sur un gibier à plumes tels que des grives ou un perdreau.

DÉGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (16.5)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £17
Restrained, red fruit, herbal aroma. Fine grain palate, clear red fruit with punch here. More fresh, pure than many 2006s.2011-2030.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

16/20. Encore en 2006, les Pallières joue la carte de l’élégance, avec ce vin raffiné et subtil, mais aussi avec un personnalité affirmée. Des notes de cerises mûres et une touche de bois caramélisé s’associent aux tanins, parfaitement fondus dans l’ensemble.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 ($35; from vines averaging 75 years of age) Medium red. Complex nose offers scents of strawberry, raspberry, fresh flowers, minerals and Asian spices. Focused and pure, reminiscent of a serious Burgundy, with sweet red berry flavors and a firming note of cherry skin. Silky tannins add focus to the long, sappy finish.

—

La couleur est moyennement intense, le nez est frais, très fin et accueillant. Aucune agression. La bouche est harmonieuse dès le début, elle devient assez intense en milieu et monte en puissance doucement et sereinement jusqu’à la fin. C’est élégant et bien équilibré, ça donne déjà du plaisir, c’est minéral et droit. Les arômes sont classiques : des fruits rouges au réglisse, légèrement épicé.

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

La couleur est soutenue, belle robe grenat foncé. Le nez est un peu fermé et légèrement influencé par le bois, presque « rustique ». La bouche est un peu serrée mais c’est vineux, réglissé, épicé. Les fruits noirs, légèrement grillés. Ce millésime est assez représentatif de ce que l’on peut attendre d’un Gigondas. Il faut encore attendre un peu pour atteindre un équilibre parfait, peut-être un ou deux ans.

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (17.5)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £17
Red cherry aroma with a tannic crackle, plenty within. Poised wine, fruit runs freely, fine and attractive. Promising. 2012-2032.

LA PRESSE – MONTREAL – Jacques Benoît

Bien coloré, le bouquet de ce vin, de fruits rouges très mûrs, rappelant les vins de Sangiovese de Toscane, est pour l’instant retenu, avec quelques notes boisées évoquant des odeurs de noix. Vin qui est élevé en foudres, dense, d’une bonne concentration et aux saveurs de fruits rouges, ses tannins sont solides, fermes, comme dans certains Châteauneufs-du-Pape. Sérieux, donc.

—

La couleur est intense et toujours très jeune. Au premier nez on arrive sur une période de fermeture assez sérieuse. En bouche on a une grande présence générale sans être facile à définir dans les détails, ça manque de finesse, c’est un peu austère et les tannins sont assez sérieux. L’équilibre sera au rendez-vous plus tard, la minéralité en est le garant. A voir vers 2012.
Daniel Brunier.

—

En 2005, la nature fut d’une grande générosité pour les vignerons du sud de la Vallée du Rhône. L’appellation Gigondas a reçu elle aussi sa dose de bonheur cette année-là et le terroir des Pallières s’est exprimé pleinement. Couleur d’un beau grenat profond, complexe et brillant, du fruit très mûr, presque compoté au nez, on parvient à sentir l’onctuosité et le velours. La bouche est belle, droite, équilibrée, fraîche et délicate : c’est très zan à la violette. L’harmonie fait partie de ce millésime, les tanins sont présents mais pas gênants du tout, ils donnent au vin son équilibre et son intensité.

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

Belle robe, grenat, soutenue. Le nez est complexe, s\’ouvre sur des notes de cuir, pruneaux, sous-bois. En bouche, c\’est élégant, il manque un peu de richesse mais c\’est vineux et onctueux à la fois. Une belle fraîcheur vient soutenir une structure plutôt féminine, c\’est joli et très fin. Ce millésime est prêt à boire, se dégustera parfaitement sur des gibiers à plumes.

—

La couleur est très belle, rubis intense, ce qui n’est pas toujours évident avec 80% de Grenache. Le nez est profond, un peu fermé encore, les fruits sont rouges et l’ensemble très droit. En bouche on perçoit des arômes de fruits très mûrs, de chocolat ; c’est profond, très riche ; la structure est là mais le grain est assez fin, on a même une sensation de velours qui lui donne une belle longueur ; Millésime de caractère, de force dont le vieillissement est garanti.
Daniel Brunier.

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

La couleur est grenat aux reflets légèrement tuilés. Nous sommes en présence d’un millésime solaire qui nous offre de bien belles surprises. Le nez est expressif, les arômes de pruneaux, cerise kirchée, cacao se confondent, c’est riche et profond. La bouche est similaire, la structure est charpentée, les tanins sont encore bien en place, laissant présager un potentiel de garde d’une paire d’années encore. C’est équilibré, la finale est guidée par les épices et la fraîcheur, on peut tout à fait le déguster dès à présent.

—

Couleur rouge, quelques reflets bruns, limpide et brillant. Le vin se présente à nous sur des arômes de pruneaux à l’alcool, fruits confits, noyaux d’abricot, pomme au four ; En bouche il apparait droit et net ; notes de compotes, chocolat amer, et chocolat à l’orange. Il s’agit d’un vin d\’une très belle finesse compte tenu du millésime, qui évolue sur des arômes tertiaires et toujours très épicés.
Certainement à carafer et à partager sur des plats en sauce, coq au vin ou des gibiers.
Leo Borsi

Daniel Brunier

C’est le premier millésime à avoir été produit dans la nouvelle cuverie. Belle couleur. Malgré un caractère assez fermé et discret, le nez offre des arômes de fruits rouges frais, de kirsch, sans aucun effet d’alcool souvent le signe de ce millésime issu d’un été très chaud et sec. En bouche, on retrouve la fraîcheur du terroir perçue au nez ; belle complexité d’arômes dominée par le réglisse ; belle richesse bien contenue, c’est profond et encore très jeune, le relief et le grain sont intéressants. Un petit bémol sur la structure tannique : un léger sec se fait sentir en fin de bouche que les années devraient aplanir.

Daniel Brunier

Aucun vin n’a été produit sous l’étiquette Domaine Les Pallières en millésime 2002.

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

La robe est belle et encore soutenue. Le nez nous offre des arômes de sous-bois mais reste fin et élégant. La bouche manque un peu de nervosité et d\’intensité. C\’est équilibré, minéral et floral à la fois, les arômes tertiaires dominent. La structure tanique est encore bien marquée mais il faudra profiter de ce millésime de suite ou bien l\’attendre encore un ou deux ans.

—

Très belle couleur. Nez de coin frais, d’herbe coupée, complexe et profond. En bouche c’est harmonieux, riche et très élégant à la fois. On a atteint une première maturité qui le rend très accessible. On retrouve le chocolat noir, la violette, le réglisse. Un des millésimes de Pallières à commencer à ouvrir maintenant.
Daniel Brunier

—

Jolie couleur, nuancée, d’une densité moyenne, sans effet d’évolution. Le nez est frais. On est surpris par l’intensité et la richesse de la bouche ; beaucoup de présence, belle fraîcheur de fruit ; La richesse du millésime propulse les arômes en bouche ; Rien n’est caché, c’est direct, droit et généreux. On peut regretter un léger manque de complexité, mais peut être viendra elle avec le temps ?! Potentiel de vieillissement intéressant.
Daniel Brunier

DEGUSTATION AU DOMAINE

La couleur est superbe, vive, prononcée. Le nez est légèrement animal, s\’ouvrant sur les arômes de fruits cuits. La bouche est fraîche et élégante, on retrouve les pruneaux, les épices, une expression légèrement acidulée, c\’est agréable et fin. Cette cuvée arrive désormais à maturité malgré la présence de tanins encore nombreux.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

90. A beautifully little rose, the 2019 Vin De France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé reveals a lighter salmon hue as well as a great nose of cotton candy, dried spices, and loamy soil. With lots of minerality, medium-bodied richness, and a great texture, as well as a dry, clean finish, it’s going to shine on the dinner table and is ideal for drinking over the coming year.

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER: LE VIN EN ROSE – SEPT. 2019 – JANE BERG

If you’re feeling résistant to any policy makers these days, stock up on the sandy blond Au Petit Bonheur from Les Pallières. The INAO, the certifying body for France’s winemaking regions, believe that Gigondas’s eponymous rosé, despite being made naturally from organic grapes, may not identify as such if it does not look pink enough. Vexed by this rule, Kermit and the Bruniers decided to part ways with the Gigondas AOP and make their rosé as Mother Nature intended, in a vin gris style. Equal parts Clairette, Grenache, and Cinsault, this bottling is salty, discreet, and full of brambly fruit and soft citrus notes. Vive le freedom of le Vin de France.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 11 OCTOBRE, 2019 – JAMES SUCKLING

93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

90. Based on Clairette, Grenache and Cinsault from Gigondas and vines near Ventoux, the 2018 Vin De France Au Petit Bonheur reveals a salmon color as well as notes of dried strawberries, orange blossom, and salty minerality. Rich and layered, it has good freshness and purity and will be incredibly versatile on the dinner table.

DRINKRHONE.COM – OCT 2018 – JOHN LIVINGSTONE-L.

*** has an ochre tinted robe; quince, floral notes feature in a gentle aroma, en rondeur. Attractive plum fruit with a fine delivery on the palate. This is a gentle terrace wine, nicely grapey. It’s not called rosé, and some years can be grey-yellow from the Clairette rose. 13.5°. To 2020

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

90. A smoking rosé that means “a little piece of happiness” in French, the 2015 Au Petit Bonheur Rosé is one-third each of Clairette, Cinsault and Grenache that’s brought up in foudre. It’s a sensational rosé that spans the gap between the light, simple Provence rosé and a richer, larger style from Tavel. Orange blossom, salty minerality, spice and crushed rock aromas and flavors literally make you salivate, and it has texture and freshness. Drink bottles through next summer.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Pale orange-pink color. Intriguing aromas of white peach, vanilla, pear, lees and lily of the valley. Smooth in texture, with rich pit and orchard fruit flavors, a touch of nougat and a kick of smoky minerals. Creamy and only hinting at red fruits, but displays striking depth. Finishes with impressive punch and lingering sweetness. If I had tasted this from a black glass I would have called it a white Burgundy. Really wild stuff. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA) 91 points – ($13.33)

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

91-93+. Moving to the two 2019s from barrel, the 2019 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable showed beautifully, with lots of red and blue fruits intermixed with notes of candied violets, cracked black pepper, and violets. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has a touch more mid-palate density than the 2018, and enough tannins to warrant a year or three of bottle age.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

92. Moving to the two 2018s, the 2018 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable is primarily Grenache that comes from higher elevation, terraced vineyards in the eastern side of the Gigondas appellation. Offering lots of spiced red fruits, dried fruits, graphite, and some obvious minerality, this beauty is medium to full-bodied, has a seamless, elegant texture, and a great finish. It’s another no brainer Gigondas from this estate to enjoy over the next 10-15 years.

SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 – 26 SEPTEMBRE, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

91-93. Mostly Grenache from terraced, higher elevation sites in the Gigondas, the 2018 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable offers a beautiful perfume of kirsch and ripe red fruits as well as loads of spice, graphite, and peppery herbs. With plenty of sweet fruit, solid mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, and beautiful finish, it has plenty of upfront appeal and will keep for over a decade.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 11 OCTOBRE, 2019 – JAMES SUCKLING

92-93. The fruit for this is sourced from elevated terrasses (above 300m) and the depth and righ, dark cherries and plums are stunning. Rich red plums, mulberries, chocolate and plenty of tannin here. Sapid, chalky finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% mourvedre. 70% de-stemmed and 30% crushed with stems. Drink or hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – AUG. 2019 – #244 – JOE CZERWINSKI

93-95. The 2018 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable comes from yields that ended up being approximately hald of the average for the estate (only 11 hectoliters per hectare). It’s full-bodied, with a rich yet silky texture, ripe flavors of cherries and raspberries and a long finish that hints at clove and licorice. The exact blend for the domaine’s wines was yet to be finalized when I tasted this sample, but historically, this cuvée is about 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre.

Daniel Brunier

On est en présence d’un bel exemple de ce qu’a pu produire 2017 en matière « d’austérité relative » ; un nez assez fermé, difficile à déchiffrer où l’on perçoit tout de même de la profondeur, de la richesse, des fruits noirs, c’est légèrement herbacé aussi ; on sent au premier nez le potentiel de vieillissement, c’est assez rare. La bouche est d’une belle densité, c’est droit et aérien ; on est sur la branche de thym, la garrigue, le mentholé tout cela dans cette ambiance de fruits noirs qui persiste ; la fraicheur est évidente et c’est là le paradoxe du millésime, une telle fraicheur issue d’un été si chaud, si sec ; qui peut soutenir encore que l’effet terroir est une vue de l’esprit ? Belle longueur en fin de bouche, on retrouve l’austérité dans la structure tanique à laquelle il faudra encore quelques temps pour trouver une vraie maturité.

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER – JANVIER 2020 – CLARK Z. TERRY

The Grenache is turned up to 90% for this high-altitude cuvée. The vines (averaging only fifty years) are planted on terraces that nestle against the imposing limestone cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail. For those of you who just can’t wait, open the Terrasse du Diable a good two or three hours before serving. Notes of black olive and licorice, mint, eucalyptus, and rosemary will soon fill the room. For those who can, in five to ten years, the brooding youthfulness will start to mature and you’ll be rewarded with … well, we don’t yet know. But if past vintages are any indication, you’ll be very happy with your foresight to put a few bottles away.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCT, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

94. Lots of violets and blue fruit with cinnamon and dark stony aromas. Baking spices, too. On the palate, there’s black fruit and an attractive, bitter-herb kick, with very dense tannins and a powerful, compressed feel. Lithe, juicy blue-fruit finish. Very focused, dense and long. Drink or hold.

SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 – 26 SEPTEMBRE, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

92-94+. Also not yet bottled, the 2017 Gigondas Terrasse Du Diable is rocking stuff and has a mouthwatering sense of salinity and mineratliy as well as the classic kirsch, garrigue, and peppery aromas this cuvée always possesses. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, and nicely concentrated, with ripe tannins, it’s going to keep for 15 years of more.

WINE ADVOCATE – AUG. 2019 – #244 – JOE CZERWINSKI

91-93. From a cool sute at 300-400 meters above sea level, the 2017 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre. It boasts knockout aromas of ciolets, garrigue and purple raspberries, with an undercurrent of black cherries. It’s full-bodied and concentrated, with bright, crunchy acids. The overall impression is of a wine with sharper edges that the harmonious 2016 or 2018. Cellar it a couple of years and then enjoy it over the following decade.

DRINKRHONE.COM – OCT 2018 – JOHN LIVINGSTONE-L.

***(*) (large 60 hl barrel, bottling summer 2019) clear, shiny red colour. The nose is floral, resembles Pez sweets, is tender, with good crystalline virtues, a peppery backdrop; it holds up safely. The palate links to the nose via its rose fragrance, develops a toffee-caramel aspect from the oak,shows that late on. This is a one-off young foudre/large barrel, which skews it somewhat. This extols purity, doesn’t have many hidden corners. “It has refined, was a bit hard before, the tannins demanding, from a dry vintage,” Daniel Brunier. 14.8°. From 2021. 2038-40

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

93-94. Black-stone and garrigue aromas. Black fruit, salt licorice and spices. Attractive, bitter-herb kick. Mouthwatering finish. Very concentrated aromas and flavors. This elevated site has a very focused, dense an intense feel. Barrel sample.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(91-94). From 50-year-old vines grown at 300-400 meters above sea level, the 2017 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre. It’s medium to full-bodied, with a silky feel and notes of black cherries, orange zest and a bit of peppery spice on the finish.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

95. Wild, garrigue herbs and dark berries in a fresh style with violets and dried roses. There‘s a savory, tarry, salt-licorice edge in the mouth. Moody wine. Silky, lozenge-like, glossy and polished tannins. Dark fruit and dark chocolate with a kick of bitter herbs. Finishes with impressive freshness and effortless depth. Charming. Drink or hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(92-94). Tasted prior to its July bottling, the 2016 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is an outstanding effort. Fine garrigue nuances and piney scents bring depth and complexity to the ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit. Full-bodied, silky, long and elegant, with lingering thyme and savory notes on the finish, it shouldn’t be missed.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – JULY 19, 2018 – J.MOLESWORTH

shows alluring cherry and damson plum fruit, and is focused and racy, all without the dusty structure that often lingered in earlier vintages.

VINOUS.COM – AOUT 2, 2018 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

(92-94). Bright violet. Ripe cherries and red berry liqueur on the perfumed nose, joined by a smoky nuance that builds in the backround. Shows impressive power and depth on the palate, offering sappy raspberry and candied cherry flavors complicated by hints of candied lavender and licorice. Finishes gently tannic and impressively long, delivering solid punch and leaving a sexy floral note behind.

John Livingstone-Learmonth (drinkrhone.com)

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2016 ****
(large barrel, bottling June 2018) shiny red robe. The nose kips along attractive red fruits, raspberry, with white pepper, rose muskiness. It is more fat than usual, also has spice and soaked cherries or griottes, dried herbs. The palate is also rich, textured, even unctuous, holds the abundance of 2016, the generosity, along with a good line of mineral, freshness, lift on the finish. It will develop well, has both flesh and depth. 15.2°.

From 2021. 2037-39 Oct 2017

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(91 – 93). Both Gigondas bottlings look even better in 2016 than 2015, based on the prospective blends presented by Daniel Brunier when I visited Vieux Telegraphe. The Domaine Les Pallieres 2016 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable was remarkably expressive, velvety and long, with its blueberry, cherry and spice notes covering up any semblance of heat.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – OCT. 19, 2017

92-95. Starting with the 2016s, these are the finest wines I’ve tasted from this estate. The 2016 Gigondas Terrasses du Diable comes from higher elevation, limestone soils and is a full-bodied, tight, focused effort that has bright acidity, masses of tannin and classic notes of black cherries, leafy herbs, pepper and searing minerality. It’s terrific but will benefit from a few years of bottle age.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

93. Dark and focused, with cassis, blackberry and black currant flavors spliced together, racing along atop mouthwatering bramble, lavender and rosemary accents. A bright iron streak pierces the finish, adding life and range. Best from 2019 through 2027. 2,600 cases made.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

89. The beautiful cherry fruit of the Domaine Les Pallieres 2015 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is accompanied by ample weight and silky tannins. Unfortunately, the licorice-tinged finish also comes with a sensation of warmth from elevated alcohol.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – OCT. 19, 2017

94. The 2015s are also brilliant, and if not for the 2016s, I’d say best yet. The 2015 Gigondas Terrasses du Diable sports a ruby color as well as considerable polish and elegance in its blackberry, black cherry, garrigue and mineral-drenched style. Full-bodied, concentrated, loaded with spice, and beautifully textured, it’s a knockout 2015 to drink over the coming decade.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

(89-92). A bigger, richer barrel sample, with some chewy, meaty, dark fruit characteristics and lots of roasted herbs, the 2015 Gigondas Terrasses de Diable is full-bodied and supple, with sweet tannin and lots of fruit.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

91. Also seriously impressive, the 2014 Gigondas Terrasses de Diable is another elegant, medium-bodied and impeccably balanced effort from this estate. And while I consider 2014 a difficult vintage for Gigondas, it was interesting to hear Daniel Brunier comment that this was his favorite vintage. Coming from more limestone and clay soils further up in the Dentelles, it offers outstanding notes of black cherries, framboise, garrigue and Asian spice, solid mid-palate depth, fine tannin and a lengthy finish. It too has the class to evolve for a decade.

VINEOUS – MAY 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(91-93) : Deep ruby. Black raspberry, cherry compote and garrigue on the powerfully scented nose. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering vibrant red and blue fruit flavors and a subtle hint of candied licorice that gains strengh with air. Finishes on a smoky red berry note, with impressive thrust and smooth, even tannins that fold into the wine’s juicy fruit.

RVF – NOV. 2016 – DOSSIER MILLESIME 2013 – R. PETRONIO

15.5-16 / 20. Ce vin provient d’une parcelle d’altitude. Il contient 5% de Clairette. Fraîcheur et finesse le caractérisent. Il prend des notes de menthol, de bégétal noble et de fruit très pur. Gracieux, mais avec un coeur de bouche serré, c’est un modèle de Gigondas raffiné à l’accent septentrional.

VINEOUS – MAY 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 : Dark ruby. Candied red berries, cherry compote and potpourri on the highly pungent nose ; mineral element adds vivacity. Energetic black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show excellent clarity and a hint of licorice pastille that builds as the wine opens up. The energetic finish repeats the floral and mineral notes, while supple tannins lend shape and grip.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

(87-89). Both cuvées on this vintage are impressive, possibly oustanding efforts. The Terrasse du Diable is perfumed and pretty, with medium-bodied richness and depty to go with sweet raspberry, spice and peppery aromas and flavors. The tannins are well-managed. It has good, not great concentration, and a balanced, elegant style that will evolve nicely.

WINE SPECTATOR – WEB ONLY 2014 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

89. A perfumy style, with singed cedar and dark tea notes wafting up from the core of red currant and bitter cherry fruit. A hint of iron lines the taut, cedar-edged finish. Drink now through 2016. Tasted twice, with consistent notes

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

91. It’s oustanding. Coming from the upper, cooler terraces of the appellation, it exhibits ample garrigue, dried spices, dried soil and toast to go with medium to full-bodied richness, beautiful depth and richness and building, fine tannin. It picks up a salty minerality with air, and while already drinking nicely, will benefit from short-term cellaring and drink well through 2024.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2015 – COUP DE COEUR – 16.5 / 20

2011 franchit un cap en termes d’expression et d’aboutissement, Terrasse du Diable est une essence de grenache infiniment sensuelle;
Arômes profond de kirsh. Du caractère, matière tannique veloutée et équilibre parfait, race évidente? un vin de temps à redécouvrir dans 10 ans.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Vivid ruby. Heady scents of candied cherry, raspberry preserves, anise and potpourri. Shows a darker profile in the mouth, offering palate-staining blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong floral quality. Picks up smokiness with air and finishes with superb focus and length and youthful tannic grip. No question that this is one of the best wines I tasted from Gigondas this year.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Bright ruby-red. Sexy, floral-accented aromas of raspberry, cherry and smoky minerals. Supple and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering intense cherry and red fruit liqueur flavors. Displays very good vivacity and clarity on the long, red fruit- and floral dominated finish, which betrays only a whisper of tannins. 91-93

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

($49) Bright ruby-red. A complex, heady bouquet evokes candied red fruits, potpourri and Asian spices. Silky and seamless in texture, offering vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic touch of blood orange. Anise and herb notes come up with air and carry through a long, bright and focused finish. I underestimated this sexy wine last year. 93

THE RHONE REPORT – JEB DUNNUCK – ISSUE # 9 – 25 SEPT 2011 – (91-93) pts

The same blend and elevage as the ’09, the 2010 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is a deeper, darker rendition of the prior vintage, showing serious minerality that’s buffered by crunchy black fruits, spice, and licorice aromas. Medium to full-bodied with beautiful concentration, perfectly ripe fruit, good acidity, and plenty of length, this will be an outstanding bottle of wine that should have 10-12 years of prime drinking.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – (90-92) pts –

The 2010 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable reveals a deeper color as well as abundant notes of crushed rocks, strawberries, cherries and floral characteristics. With a deep, medium-bodied, fresh, lively style, it should drink well for a decade.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – MAR/APR 2011

90-92. Vivid red. Fresh raspberry and floral aromas show impressive purity and energy. Bright, racy and focused on the palate, displaying powerful red berry and cherry flavors and hints of succulent herbs. A suave candied lavender note builds with air and carries through the red fruit-accented finish. I suspect that this wine will be approachable soon after release

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

sourced from the highest part of the estate, a blend of 90 per cent grenache, and five per cent each of mourvèdre and clairette, the vines are 45 years of age. The first impression is of a ripe young wine with grenache’s red fruits and some peppery herbal notes ahead of graphite-like stony scents. The palate is ripe, showing gently baked wild red berries, hints of biscuity spices and a late wave of smooth, nut-flavoured tannins. Great balance, there’s much to come in time.

VINUM – OCT 2011 – 17/20

Entdekung. Dass die Bruniers aus Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Vieux Télégraphe) gorsse Weine keltern, ist kein Geheimnis. Doch die ausserordentliche qualität ihres Gigondas, der alle anderen Weine der Gemeinde hinter sich liess, hat uns doch überrascht. Von beeindruckender Würze, dichte, Kraft und Länge, mit eng sitzenden Tanninen grosser Intensität une Klasse. Besitzt ausgesrochenen Charaketer, ist seinen verhältnismässig hohen Preis wert.

THE RHONE REPORT – JEB DUNNUCK – ISSUE # 9 – 25 SEPT 2011 – 92 pts

A blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Clairette that’s aged both in tank and foudre, the 2009 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable comes from the upper, terraced portion of the Pallières vineyard. Showing an outstanding aromatic profile of cherry, white pepper, crushed stone, and licorice, the wine is medium to full-bodied on the palate, showing a round, supple texture, beautiful freshness, and solid fruit that’s focused by ripe tannin on the finish. A classic Gigondas, this is approachable now, but should be better in a year or two, with a decade of prime drinking.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – 89 pts –

It exhibits a light ruby color along with fresh cherry and raspberry notes intermixed with a striking minerality. Fresh, lively and refreshing, with notions of strawberry fruit on the palate, this mid-weight red should be drunk over the next 5-7 years.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – (90-93) pts –

The 2009 is just a step behind the estate’s finest wines to date, the 2007s. It was cropped at a frightfully low 16 hl per hectare. It boasts wonderful fresh raspberry and black cherry fruit notes intermixed with scents of crushed rocks and flowers. An unmistakable minerality leads to a medium to full-bodied, extraordinary elegant, dense, rich wine that is seemingly light across the palate despite whit must be elevated alcohols. Drink this beauty over the next decade or more.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – MAR/APR 2011

91-93. (90% grenache and 5% each mourvedre and clairette Bright ruby. Vibrant aromas of strawberry, raspberry, Asian spices and potpourri. Suave, silky and weightless, with noteworthy finesse and a penetrating quality to the flavors of red fruits and candied rose. Very complex, spicy and incisive Gigondas. Finishes with a strong floral quality and impressive length.

RVF – JUIN 2010 – cité parmi « les grandes réussites »

Top 5 sur 50 vins dégustés.
Nez gracieux de pêche de vigne et de cerise à l\’eau-de-vie. La bouche douce, avec des tanins fins, offre un joli final sur un fruit bien mûr.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 88 pts –

Now that partners Daniel and Frédéric Brunier and Kermit Lunch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated cool climate terroir, Les Pallières quality has soared.
Medium ruby-colored effort displaying elegant, Pinot Noir-like notes of bay leaf, strawberries, forest floor and black cherries. Peppery, spicy and well-made in a very difficult vintage for Gigondas, it should drink well for 4-6 years.

WINE SPECTATOR – FEB 28, 2011

88. Medium-weight, with a slightly raisined edge to the elegant plum and fig notes. There\’s a lingering black licorice edge on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 4500 cases made.

GAULT MILLAU – JAN/MARS 2011

La texture est remarquable de précision et de sensualité. Les tanins enrobés laissent parler des notes kirschées, de cuir, de poivre aussi. Rondeur et volume emplissent la bouche. Avec une côte de boeuf, un cassoulet, des viandes en sauce.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – MAR/APR 2011

91. ($36) Deep red. High-pitched aromas of red berries and potpourri, with a vibrant mineral quality and a hint of anise. Lively and precise on the palate, offering sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors and a hint of candied flowers that gains strength with air. Impressively elegant wine with lovely finishing clarity and spicy persistence.

WINE ADVOCATE #191 – 88 – $42

Now that partners Daniel and Frédéric Brunier and Kermit Lunch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated cool climate terroir, Les Pallières quality has soared.
Terrasse du Diable 2008 is a medium ruby-colored effort displaying elegant, Pinot Noir-like notes of bay leaf, strawberries, forest floor and black cherries. Peppery, spicy and well-made in a very difficult vintage for Gigondas. It should drink well for 4-6 years.

JANCIS ROBINSON – 21 NOV; 2009

Mentioned in the 2008 successes
Looks quite an evolved crimson. Not that deep a colour. Sweet, gamey nose. Very easy to like. Casual but confident with lots of fruit right across the palate. Not as full blooded as some other vintages but really very Gigondas and less dry on the finish than some of the more ‘successful’ vintages. A very attractive drink – though not for the very long term.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Dark red. Brighter and stonier than the Racines , with scents of strawberry, redcurrant and Asian spices underscored by dusty minerals. Racy, finely etched red fruit flavors stain the palate without showing any excess weight or rough edges. With a late note of succulent herbs, this is already showing good complexity, but this taut, well-balanced wine will be even better with a few years of bottle aging. 90-92

WINE SPECTATOR TOP 100 2010

Les Pallières Terrasse du Diable 2007 (92pts) appears in this renowned top 100 at the 67th rank.

WINE SPECTATOR – MARCH 31, 2010

Polished and pure, with delicious layers of plum sauce, braised fig and melted licorice that glide through the dense but silky-textured finish. hints of graphite and incense lurk in the background. Long with buried minerality. Should age nicely. Drink now through 2015. 92 pts.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

(90% grenache and 5% each of mourvedre and clairette) Rubyred. Pungent smoky aromas of cherry, black raspberry, spicecake and flowers, plus a strong mineral undertone. Round and velvety on entry, the firmer in the middle, offering juicy red berry and cherry flavors with repeating smokiness. Impressively energetic on the finish, which echoes the red fruit and spice notes. I\’d keep my hands off this wine for at least another five years. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA) 91

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

16/20. Un nez aux arômes de cerises en alcool, éphémère, moelleux en bouche avec des fruits confits, un boisé fin et élégant, au corps riche et plein, des tanins puissants, belle complexité en finale.

WINE ADVOCATE #185 – 93 – $42

The sensational 2007 Gigondas Les Terraces de Diable reveals gloriously sweet black cherry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with notions of licorice, loamy soil, and roasted herbs. With terrific fruit density, a full-bodied richness, and striking elegance and precision, it should drink well for 15 or more years.
Partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch impeccably run this estate. I should also give a nod to Kermit Lynch’s latest musical endeavor, his brilliant CD called Man’s Temptation, which I highly recommend (particularly the song Gare de Lyon). Les Pallieres 2008s are two of the finest Gigondas I tasted in what is a very mediocre vintage for that appellation.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –FEB/JAN 09 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91-94 Deep red. Intensely perfumed aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, minerals and fresh flowers. There\’s a Burgundian delicacy and focus here that are really intriguing. Sweet red berry flavors stain the palate without conveying any impression of undue weight. Finishes with outstanding clarity and spicy length. This new cuvee is sourced from 50-year-old vines in the estate\’s highest-altitude site.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

92-94+. More black currants, blueberries, peppery garrigue, licorice and mineral notes define the 2019 Gigondas Les Racines and it’s another beautifully rich, layered, textured barrel sample from this estate that’s going to benefit from short term cellaring.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

92+. Slightly deeper and richer, with a more backward style, the 2018 Gigondas Les Racines reveals a deeper ruby/plum color as well as terrific notes of ripe black cherries, roasted garrigue, scorched earth, and ground pepper. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and concentrated, with plenty of underlying structure, it’s a terrific 2018 that’s going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink brilliantly over the following decade or more.

SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 – 26 SEPTEMBRE, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

90-92+. The 2018 Gigondas Les Racines comes from older vines and slightly deeper, more north-facing parcels around the estate. It offers darker notes of blackcurrants earth, ground pepper, truffle, and leafy herbs as well as a more concentrated, tannic style on the palate.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 11 OCTOBRE, 2019 – JAMES SUCKLING

91-92. From very old vines (70-100 years old). There is a strong, red-fruit focus here with a sappy and very plush feel to the palate. Succulent, fleshy and mellow and a very suave, open-knit and ripe-grenache finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% cinsault and syrah co-planted. Drink over the first decade.

WINE ADVOCATE – AUG. 2019 – #244 – JOE CZERWINSKI

95-97. The precise blend for this cuvée hadn’t been finalized at the time of my visit, so the sample I tasted of 2018 Gigondas Les Racines was an approximation put together by the team at the estate. Marked by accents of blodd orange and citrus zest, the raspberry fruit at the core of this wine is concentrated and ripe. Full-bodied and rich, yet silky, fine and elegant, it’s a classic representation of this microclimate and its 75-year-old Grenache vines.

Daniel Brunier

On est en présence aussi d’un bel exemple de millésime qui met en exergue des différences notables existant entre Terrasse du Diable et Racines. Le nez de réglisse noir est déjà poli, charnel, rond et ce côté charnu ne nous quittera pas jusqu’à la fin de la dégustation ; la bouche est onctueuse, les aromes sont ceux de fruits très murs, c’est complexe et profond ; les tanins sont équilibrés, presque poudreux et aériens. En fin de bouche la sensation de réglisse revient, c’est charnu, velouté, fin et légèrement mentholé. Un très beau et classique millésime de Racines.

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER – JANVIER 2020 – CLARK Z. TERRY

The domaine’s oldest vines and 80% Grenache in the blend are the fundamentals of Racines. Of the two Les Pallières bottlings, this is the one that typically is open younger in its life. The tannins are soft, and the fruit is pure and elegant. Underlying that, though, is something dark and profound – a savory character reminiscent of a tapenade. Don’t count it out as a candidate for your cellar.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCT, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

95. Aromas of cassis, garrigue and redcurrants and wild raspberries. Grenache drives the palate in a long, linear and very focused style. Dense, but delicate, with a fresh and juicy, raspberry-pastry finish. The vines are 80+ years old. Striking power and focus. Drink or hold.

SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 – 26 SEPTEMBRE, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

92-94. More blackcurrants, black cherries, earth, and leafy, peppery herb aromas emerge from the 2017 Gigondas Les Racines, which is more closed and backward yet has plenty of depth and concentration. It needs 4-5 years of bottle age.

WINE ADVOCATE – AUG. 2019 – #244 – JOE CZERWINSKI

93-95. Despite being riper and more concetrated than the Terrasse du Diable bottling, the 2017 Gigondas Les Racines shares a similarly edgy structure. Potent raspberry fruit is delivered on a full-bodied, richly textured palate that finishes crisp and a bit jagged. Give it a couple of years in the cellar, and it should be fine for drinking over the next 10 years.

DRINKRHONE.COM – OCT 2018 – JOHN LIVINGSTONE-L.

**** (large barrel, bottling June 2019) steady red robe; the nose is aromatic, nicely wide and quietly persistent, floral, gracious, comes with snippets of licorice, sparks of menthol, smokiness. The palate has a broad debut, good heart, fills the palate with some silk in the texture, develops pebbly tannins, with a chewy aspect on them. It is more complete, profound than the Terrasses 2017, the length assured. It can make progress quietly, gradually. The tannins remind me a bit of 2013, though it’s more elegant than 2013. Good local ID here; take your time with it. 14.8°.

From 2022. 2040-43

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

94-95. Brambly, red fruit in this grenache-driven Gigondas (80 per cent) and there are wild herbs, dried roses and some elegant, lighter notes. Pastry-like tannins. Fluid and plush. Dense but delicate. Raspberry pastry finish. Fresh and juicy. At 250m altitude, this is lower than the Diable plot. The vines are 80+ years old. Barrel sample.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(93-95). The prospective blend of the 2017 Gigondas Les Racines is 80% Grenache, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. Full-bodied and velvety, it offers black cherry and black raspberry flavors tinged with orange zest. It’s bright and fresh despite the dark fruit, with soft tannins on the lingering finish.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

96. Very complete and complex wine that has intensity and elegance. Raspberry and rose-like perfume, this has a long, red-fruit core with dark spices wrapped deep into the heart of the palate. Detailed texture, the noble, long tannins cloaked in wild, red plums and berries. Terrific freshness here. Wow. Drink or hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(94-96). The 2016 Gigondas Les Racines was in its foudres at the time of my visit, but I still think it is the equal of the Brunier family’s Châteauneufs. Full-bodied and rich but silky and almost lacy in texture, it marries raspberries and apricots with lovely herbal nuances and a lingering finish. It’s a tremendous Gigondas, made from 75-year-old vines (80% Grenache).

WINESPECTATOR.COM – JULY 19, 2018 – J.MOLESWORTH

It’s juicier in feel [than Terrasse du Diable], with more succulent cherry, plum and blackberry fruit that gets an energetic kick of anise at the end. Both are lovely wines

VINOUS.COM – AOUT 2, 2018 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

(92-94). Deep ruby. Highly fragrant, smoke-tinged aromas of fresh dark fruits, incense and potpourri are sharpened by a spicy pepper note. Fleshy and broad but energetic as well, offering bitter cherry, black raspberry and floral pastille flavors that turn sweeter on the back half. Finishes sweet, broad and very long, displaying firm, spicy puch and dusty tannins that come in late.

John Livingstone-Learmonth (drinkrhone.com)

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES LES RACINES 2016 ****(*)
(large barrel, bottling June 2018) full, dark red. The nose is striking – raspberry liqueur, vibrant fruit, geranium, spicing. There is a good garrigue presence on the palate, with a hum of intensity; it builds as it goes, straightens just before the close. There is a lot of wine here; it’s complex. The flavour centres on warm red berry fruits, thickly delivered but fluid. It shows especially well on the second half, and the close is nice and rocky.

From 2022. 2038-41 Oct 2017

JANCISROBINSON.COM – NOV. 23, 2017 – RICHARD HEMMING

17. Meaty nose with gorgeously succulent bramble fruits on the palate and an earthy undergrowth complexity that is really charming and open-knit. Precocious and delicious for drinking now, with all the heartiness and generosity of great Grenache.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(93 – 95). The Domaine Les Pallieres 2016 Gigondas Les Racines is full-bodied and lush, awash in cherry fruit, and seemingly even more supple, concentrated and long than the Terrasse de Diable. It has the stuffing to drink well for up to two decades

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – OCT. 19, 2017

93-95. The 2016 Gigondas Racines comes from older vines around the estate and is a bigger, richer, more mouth-filling beauty. Currants, roasted herbs, charcoal and garrigue aromas all emerge from this decadent, opulent beauty that has ripe tannin and a big finish. It too will benefit from short-term cellaring.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

92. Still youthfully tight, with singed alder and dried lavender notes framing a coiled core of cassis, damson plum and bitter cherry fruit. The long sanguine- and mineral-edged finish will need some time to unwind fully. Best from 2019 through 2027. 2,800 cases made.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

91. I preferred the Domaine Les Pallieres 2015 Gigondas Les Racines, which comes from 75-year-old vines (80% Grenache) at lower elevation. There’s a sassafras-like spice note to this wine, along with ripe cherries and hints of clove and allspice. Like the Terrasse de Diable, it’s full-bodied and silky in texture, but the Racines seems to carry its alcohol better. Both of these Gigondas are matured exclusively in 60hectoliter foudres, so there’s no obvious oak influence.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – OCT. 19, 2017

94+. Cut from the same cloth, the 2015 Gigondas Racines offers darker fruits, as well as more minerality, yet is slightly closed and needs 2-3 years of bottle age. Garrigue, black cherries, currants, scorched earth, and licorice all flow to a full-bodied Gigondas that has ripe tannin and terrific length. It’s a classic beauty well worth your time and money.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

(91-93). The 2015 Gigondas les Racines looks to be slightly superior to the Terrasses du Diable at this point and has a more minerality, dark fruit and garrigue in a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, even backwards style. It has depth and length, and will benefit from a few years in bottle

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

92. The 2014 Gigondas les Racines is truly gorgeous, and a serious wine in a difficult vintage for the appellation. From yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare, it has beautiful notes of black cherries, blackberries, hints of pepper and bouquet garni in a medium-bodied, ultra-fine, ultra-pure style. It’s a hidden little gem that will keep for a decade.

VINEOUS – MAY 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(90-92) : Bright ruby. Spicy and energetic on the nose, displaying intense red and dark berry scents and suggestions of candied flowers and garrigue. Spicy, tightly focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors deepen and spread out slowly, picking up a subtle licorice nuance. Shows very good energy and mineral-driven thrust on the clinging finish, which is framed by dusty, harmonious tannins.

AUSTRALIAN FINANCIAL REVIEW – SECTION LIFE & LEISURE – TIM WHITE

95 (96) /100. Powerful smelling with prune, demi-glace, charred beef ribs and some lavender-like aromatics. Concentrated, but still fresh smelling. As it is in the mouth with pomegranate-+rose hip edginess and incredible fruit length and depth. Tight and chewy, and ideally needs another five years to show its best.

RVF – NOV 2016 – DOSSIER MILLESIME 2013

15.5-16.5 / 20. Issue de vignes de 60 ans et plus, cette cuvée tournée vers le nord est située au lieu-dit Les Pallières. Elle offre un nez délicatement épicé et un fruit très pur. La bouche retranscrit cette sensation dans une matière fine mais intense avec des tanins solides mais élégants et enrobés par un beau fruit. Cet ensemble demandera un peu de temps pour se patiner totalement.

VINEOUS – MAY 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 : Vivid ruby. Spice-and smoke-accented red berries on the highly perfumed nose, complicated by a touch of candied flowers. Palate-staining bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors gain energy and life from an undertone of juicy minerality. The floral quality repeats on the penetrating finish, which is shaped by silky, harmonious tannins.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

(89-92). Deeper and richer that the Terrasse du Diable? Has impressive minerality in its dark fruits, pepper and garrigue aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, ripe and nicely concentrated, it’s a smoking 2013 that will drink well for a decade.

WINE SPECTATOR – WEB ONLY 2014 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

90. The core flavors of plum, fig paste and blackberry confiture cruise along, lined with charcoal and warm stone notes. Shows persistent grip on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2020

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

91. In the same ballpark quality-wise (as Les Terrasses du Diable), it has a darker slant to its fruit and gives up plenty of currants, licorice, bouquet garni and chocolate, as well as serious minerality. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless, I actually like the mid-palate on the Terrasses du Diable more, but the tannin quality here is more polished and sweeter. Give this another 2-3 years in the cellar and drink it through 2024

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 15.5

Magnifique vignoble de Gigondas situé en terrasses sous les dentelles. Le vin s\’exprime dans un style profond, structuré et sans lourdeur. Offre un grain splendide et un fruit d\’une grande douceur

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Brilliant ruby. Lively red fruit and floral scents are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and potpourri. Spicy, penetrating and pure, offering gently sweet raspberry and lavender pastille flavors and a subtle touch of blood orange. Closes smooth and long, with a whisper of tannins and strong mineral cut. This wine is a poster child for the blend of power and elegance that marks a great Gigondas. 92

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Vivid ruby. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of cherry, black raspberry, lavender and cracked pepper, with a bright mineral topnote. Spicy and incisive, with lively red berry and bitter cherry flavors. Silky tannins add grip to a persistent, spice- and floral-accented finish. 90- 92

RVF – JUIN 2012 – SPECIAL MILLESIME 2011

Cité dans \’les grandes réussites\’ de Gigondas
Mélange de poivre frais et de fruit compté au nez ; bouche serrée, concentrée. L’alcool est présent, mais la construction semble pouvoir le supporter.

RVF – NOV. 2016 – R. PETRONIO

16-17 / 20. Nez épicé, sur la résine, voire le végétal noble. Cela sent la cerise à l’eau-de-vie. Le fruit est pur, la bouche rectiligne mais pas dure, tout à fait dans le style du domaine. Ce Gigondas présente un côté salin presque rocailleux. Très étiré, il exprime à merveille le caractère des vins du versant nord de l’appellation.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

($49) Vivid ruby. A pungent bouquet displays scents of blackcurrant, candied cherry, licorice, tobacco and smoky herbs. Supple and pliant, offering sharply focused dark berry and cherry compote flavors, silky tannins and a sexy floral quality. Smoothly combines richness and vivacity and finishes with outstanding cut. 93

RVF – JUIN 2011 – SPECIAL MILLESIME 2012

Cité dans \’les grandes réussites\’ de Gigondas
Le nez complexe mêle chocolat, agrumes et minéral. L\’ensemble est homogène et très salin.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – (91-93) pts –

More dramatic, denser and richer, the 2010 Gigondas Les Racines offers up floral, red and black currant, raspberry and garrigue aromas as well as notions of wet rocks (which I associate with underlying minerality). It possesses a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel as well as surprising depth and length. The tannins are sweet, but the acidity gives the wine a zesty mouthfeel. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 10-15 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – JAN/FEB 2012

93-95; Bright ruby. Fresh red fruit and garrigue on the intensely perfumed, complex nose. The palate offers silky bitter cherry, raspberry and licorice flavors complicated by fresh bay and dried lavender. Really an essence of Provence! Closes on a spicy note, with lingering sweetness and a touch of smoky herbs. An essence of Gigondas.

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

slightly darker in colour than the Terrasse du Diable cuvée. This is sourced from the oldest vines (average 60 years) on the property and is a blend of 80 per cent grenache, 15 per cent syrah and five per cent clairette. The nose has brambly fruit, some red and darker purple fruits here, with a lilting delicate fragrant lift, really soulful. The palate has immense concentration, a lithe, muscular shape and richness that flows effortlessly. Good poise and length, sturdy for a Gigondas and also one to age.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – (90-92) pts –

Coming from 70-year-old vines on the more drought resistant lower slopes (where there is more clay in the soil) is the 2009 Gigondas Les Racines. Slightly better, with more color, this blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Cinsault and Syrah reveals more complexity in a savage, animal-like manner. Hints of mint, strawberry liqueur, tree bark, porcini mushrooms and kirsch emerge from this complex, concentrated Gigondas. Drink it over the next decade.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – (91-94) pts –

Now that partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated, cool climate terroir, Les Pallières quality has soared.
Deep ruby-hued. Offers a perfumed bouquet of crushed rocks, raspberries, black cherries, currants and hints of garrigue as well as spice box. Velvety-textured, opulent and long, with stunning purity and equilibrium, it should well for 10-15 years.

FINANCIAL TIMES.com by Jancis Robinson

Ruby with quite an aged rim. Already smells quite mature! Almost as though it had some 2008 in it. Very sweet and mellow and charming. I really don’t know what explains this fast-forward wine but it has good richness and freshness with the merest suggestion of fine tannins. Strange but satisfying for early drinking.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – MAR/APR 2011

91-93. Ruby-red. Spicy red berries and dried flowers on the nose, with suggestions of anise and underbrush adding complexity. Nervy, precise redcurrant and wild strawberry flavors show an attractive touch of sweetness and good peppery lift. Bracingly brisk on the very persistent finish, which repeats the redcurrant note and shows a refreshingly bitter rhubarb quality. Made from a blend of 80% grenache, 15% co-planted syrah and cinsault and 5% clairette.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 89 pts –

Now that partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated, cool climate terroir, Les Pallières quality has soared.
Reveals more minerality [compare to Terrasse du Diable], garrigue, raspberry and strawberry fruit, it is a mid-weight , elegant wine that represents one of the finest Gigondas made in this difficult vintage.

WINE SPECTATOR – FEB 28, 2011

88. This shows a more mature profile, with mesquite, mulled plum and fig bread notes laced with a streak of lightly roasted cedar. The minerally finish lingers with a plum skin note. Drink now through 2012. 1800cs made

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – MAR/APR 2011

89; ($36) Vivid red. Redcurrant, cherry and garrigue on the nose. Taut and sharply focused but a bit ungiving. Gains flesh and sweetness with air and finishes with good clarity and spicy cut. I like this wine\’s vivacity.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Bright red. Smoky red berries, flowers and minerals on the nose. A sweet, energetic midweight that offers redcurrant and cherry flavors and a tangy note of blood orange. A bit ungiving on the finish, which repeats the cherry note and lingers with very good persistence. 89- 91

LOS ANGELES TIME – 16 JUNE 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas \’Les Racines\’
The sun-bleached landscape of Gigondas in France\’s southern Rhone has always been one of my favorite haunts. I love the wines too, especially the Gigondas from the venerable Domaine les Pallières. But when Frédéric and Daniel Brunier of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape property Vieux Télégraphe and wine importer Kermit Lynch took over the estate in 1998, under the guidance of these Rhone experts the estate\’s wines went up a notch or two.
Made from the oldest vines on the estate, the 2007 bottling \ »Les Racines\ » is dense and inky, with a powerful perfume of wild herbs and berries that leads you back to the glass again and again. Each sip reveals something new — a hint of licorice, the taste of raspberries or black cherries. Yet for all its power, this blend of Grenache with a small proportion of Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette is remarkably supple and lush. Drink it with rich, juicy grilled meats, spicy barbecued ribs, a classic beef daube or duck breast.
If you can\’t find \ »Les Racines,\ » look for the other cuvée \ »Les Terrasse du Diable,\ » which may be more available. Either one is terrific.

ONEBOTTLE.COM – APRIL 2010 […]

The 2007 Pallières Les Racines qualifies as a great wine. In fact,I think it is safe to say that the 2007 Les Racines qualifies as a living wine, a wine you can approach the way you might approach another human being. Clarity and ambiguity rarely appear side by side in the same wine. They coexist in the 2007 Les Racines. If you do not taste this wine – this year, in five years, and in then years – you will be cheating yourself. \ »Les Racines\ » means \ »the roots\ ». When you drink the 2007 Les Racines, you nourish your soul in the same way that a root nourishes its vine. […] The wine overwhelms you with its depth, then it teases you with the twin promises of love and beauty. When the wine delivers on those promises, you surrender to its generosity. The finish tells ou a story. In the story, you are connected to other people by a line that has no name. […] The story has no ending. It fades into the sunset, only to reappear as a star in the sky. […]

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Ruby-red. Ripe dark berries and kirsch on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and black tea. Rich, deep and powerful, with a distinctly ripe character to the dark fruit flavors. Fresher on the finish, which features chewy tannins and leaves smoke and licorice notes behind. This is a bit inscrutable today, hiding more than it\’s showing. 89( ?)

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

16/20. Un nez riche et profond, raisins sultanines, épices douces et d’oranges confites. En bouche, il est encore très jeune, mais on sent déjà le potentiel de ce beau vin savoureux et plein de caractère aux tanins tendus, mais racés.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91-94 Saturated ruby. Youthfully vibrant dark berry aromas are complemented by suave garrigue and floral nuances. Sappy blackberry and kirsch flavors are firmed by fine-grained tannins and lifted by zesty minerals. Floral and Asian spice notes carry through a long, juicy finish. This is really promising.

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – *** (16)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE

Tender, red jam nose,floral and pure. Charming, long easy-fruit palate and depth.Tannin to the end. 2011-2020

WINE ADVOCATE #185 – 94 – $42

Even better is the 2007 Gigondas Les Racines Vieilles Vignes. Its dense ruby/purple hue is accompanied by an extraordinary bouquet of black raspberries, kirsch, licorice, crushed rocks, and flowers. Full-bodied with sensational texture, purity, and length as well as remarkable elegance and freshness, this stunning Gigondas can be enjoyed over the next 15-20 years. Bravo!
Partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch impeccably run this estate. I should also give a nod to Kermit Lynch’s latest musical endeavor, his brilliant CD called Man’s Temptation, which I highly recommend (particularly the song Gare de Lyon). Les Pallieres’ 2008s are two of the finest Gigondas I tasted in what is a very mediocre vintage for that appellation.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Bright ruby-red. Exotic, floral-accented aromas of raspberry and cherry liqueur, Asian spices and herbs. Spicy, penetrating red fruit flavors gain weight with air and pick up deeper licorice and cherry-cola qualities. Fine-grained tannins give shape and grip to an impressively long, floral-dominated finish. I don’t recall ever having a more impressive wine from this estate. 93

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – SEPT 26, 2012

94 pts – Flavors of melted licorice, blood orange, black tea, macerated black currant, anise and smoldering tobacco have been woven together here with a thread of alder that ties up the full-bodied finish with grace. Shows power, but definition too, and retains a lovely, lingering feel. Best from 2013 through 2026

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – (93-95) pts –

If you can find any of the 400 cases made of Roquète’s luxury cuvée fashioned from old Grenache vines planted in the lieu-dit Les Pialons, don’t hesitate to buy it.
This vintage is slightly superior to the 2009, and only a step behind the monumental 2007. Precise notes of black raspberries, black cherries, spring flowers, lavender, licorice and incense are found in this full-bodied, beautifully proportioned, intense red. Enjoy it over the next 15 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92-94.Dark red. Wild, exotic bouquet evokes candied red fruits, cinnamon, mace and garrigue. Stains the palate with intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with gingerbread and floral pastille nuances gaining power with air. Finishes sweet and long, with impressive clarity and persistent spiciness.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – 92 pts –

If you can find any of the 400 cases made of Roquète’s luxury cuvée fashioned from old Grenache vines planted in the lieu-dit Les Pialons, don’t hesitate to buy it.
it offers attractive notes of framboise, raspeberries, sweet cherries, spring flowers, spice box and a whiff of licorice. This full-bodied, luscious, succulent 2009 possesses sweet tannin as well as low acidity. It should drink beautifully for 10-15 years.

RVF – MARS 2012 – ROBERT PETRONIO

50 GRANDS CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ROUGE 2009
N°33 – Les frères Brunier font des vins portés par des grandes maturités de fruit. Cela se traduit par une sensation vineuse presque excessive. Mais le vin l’encaisse bien, car il a de la densité et une structure solide.

WINE SPECTATOR – 15 NOV 2011 ( INSIDER 7 SEPT 2011) – JM – 93 points – Vol. 7, No. 36

A very perfumy, velvety style, with gorgeous mouthfeel to the cassis, raspberry and blackberry fruit seamlessly woven with anise, fig paste and spice. A graphite edge keeps the finish racy, with a well-embedded mineral hint. Drink now through 2022.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

93. Deep, vivid ruby. Explosively perfumed bouquet of red berry preserves, Asian spices and lavender. Stains the palate with deep, liqueur-like raspberry and cherry flavors that offer outstanding energy and focus. Gains weight with air and finishes with superb clarity and intensity, leaving floral pastille and spice notes behind.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – (91-94 ) pts –

Since the Bruniers took over this estate, quality has soared, evidenced by their extraordinary 2007s
The limited production (330cs) is nearly as good as the profound 2007. Made from 100% Grenache from the sector of Châteauneuf-du-Pape known as Les Pialons, and aged one year in tank and one year in foudre, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple-tinged color as well as a perfumed nose of raspberry confiture, kirsch, spring flowers, licorice and a touch of minerality. Full-bodied with sweet, well-integrated tannins, and a long finish, this impressive, opulent Châteauneuf-du-Pape should drink well for 10-15 years.

DECANTER – MARCH 2010 – recommended ****

Good depth, weight and concentration. Serious wine, satisfying and confident. Some black fruit, good balance. 16/20

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

($80) Glass-staining ruby. Exotically perfumed bouquet of black raspberry, kirsch, smoky herbs and incense, with a bright mineral overtone. Deep, powerful red and dark fruit flavors are lifted by a spike of tangy minerality and pick up suave floral pastille and Asian spice notes with air. The impressively pure finish leaves notes of smoke and flowers behind. As expressive as this is today, I\’d bet on it rewarding patience. This wine is based on 90% old-vines grenache. (Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York NY) 93

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

15/20. La robe est moins intense que pour la cuvée classique, le caractère presque minéral du bouquet, la chair tapissante, la longueur donnent à ce vin une personnalité très profonde.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating 96 – The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape l’Accent de Roquete, a 450-case luxury cuvee composed of 100% Grenache aged one year in tank and one year in foudre, comes from a lieu-dit called Les Pialons. This superb effort displays a dense ruby/purple color as well as a flamboyant aromatic display of black raspberry jam, kirsch, pepper, licorice, and incense, full-bodied power, sensational purity, a multilayered texture, and a sumptuous, 60-second finish. A riveting Chateauneuf du Pape, it is the finest effort ever produced by La Roquete. It should drink well for two decades or more. Shrewd connoisseurs of Chateauneuf du Pape should be paying attention to what is taking place at La Roquete. This property was acquired by the Brunier family (who also own Vieux Telegraphe) in the mid-eighties, and over the last 4-5 years they have made successful efforts to upgrade the quality dramatically.

WINE ADVOCATE –30 OCT 2008 – N°179

ROBERT PARKER
(93-95) –potentially prodigious, it boasts a dense ruby/purple hue along with sumptuous aromas of black raspberries, kirsh, licorice, pepperr, and Asioan spices. Ripe, full-bodied, incredibly pure, and multi-dimensionnal, the finish lasts for nearly 50 seconds. This fabulous Châteauneuf-du-Pape will compete with the top wines of this stunning vintage. It should drink beautifully for two decades.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91-94 Vivid ruby. Deep, sexy aromas of blackberry, creme de cassis, anise and potpourri. Seductive dark berry liqueur flavors are complemented by candied lavender, smoked meat and succulent herbs. Bordering on decadent, displaying excellent palate coverage and strong finishing notes of smoky dark fruits and flowers. Nothing shy about this one.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – JAMES MOLESWORTH

$75 – 330 cs made 94 – Extremely dense, but silky in texture, with lush, velvety tannins carrying black tea, braised fig, mulled currant fruit, sandalwood and mineral notes, all backed by a twinge of shiso leaf on the dark, lengthy finish, which sports a nice encore of fruit and grip. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2010 through 2024.—J.M.

THE WINE DOCTOR.COM – MARS 2010

A super-cuvée from the Bruniers, this is 90% old-vine Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, raised in 30-hectolitre used oak casks. A rich fruit nose, sweet and ripe, certainly concentrated, not in the slightest bit confit or jammy. The palate has a supple, velvety substance and a charcoaly, tannic grip which I like. Good acids, and a long, grippy finish with a savoury twist. 17 /20

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (18)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £36
Promising, potentially broad bouquet. Rich, red fruit palate, wide, typical grenache, with long tannins. Fine, grand. 2009 -2029.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

15/20. Même registre que le 2007 avec un style un rien moins expansif mais toujours intéressant, long et tapissant.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

89 ( ?) ($75) Bright red. Dark berries and cherry on the nose, with complicating garrigue, licorice and olive nuances. Fleshy, pure red and dark berry flavors are firmed by dusty tannins and clench up with air. The finish hints at sweetness but this is a rather tough read today. (Incidentally, this domain was previously called Domaine La Roquette; its reds are now labeled Domaine La Roquete,)

life.nationalpost.com – rubrique life/appetizer/wine – 23 NOv. 2013

2010 has proved to be an exceptional vintage in the southern Rhône and especially Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Among many excellent wines, look for 2010 Domaine La Roquète Châteauneuf-Du-Pape ($49.95). It offers plenty of old vine (50 years) sappiness and density, not to mention terrific length. This should continue to gain in interest and complexity over the next 4-6 years, but has already achieved a fine value-for-money ratio even in this premium price range.

NATIONAL POST – John Szabo’s Vintages preview for November 23, 2013

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

($53) Bright ruby. Raspberry, lavender and spices on the highly perfumed nose and in the mouth. Offers an array of sappy red fruit flavors that put on weight with air and pick up a sexy floral pastille nuance. Fine-grained tannins give shape to a long, floral- and spiceaccented finish. Showing impressive finesse and appeal today, in a vaguely pinot way. 91

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – (90-92) pts –

Domaine La Roquète is an up-and-coming producer that appears to be doing everything right now that the Brunier family has had full control for over a decade. To date, the 2007s have been their finest offerings, but the 2009s and 2010s are not far behind.
Reveiling a slightly deeper color than the 2009, it possesses more concentration, power and focus along with the vintage’s good acidity, freshness and vibrancy. It should drink well for 15 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90-92. Vivid ruby. Sexy aromas of spicy red berries and potpourri, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Juicy and very fresh, offering intense raspberry and cherry flavors given depth by a suggestion of candied licorice. Finishes sappy and long, with resonating florality and Stephen Tanzer\’s International Wine Cellar Page 71 of 83 http://www.wineaccess.com/expert/tanzer/classic.html?content_id=85561 22/01/2012 an echo of red fruit.

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

magnificent wine. A blend of 70 per cent grenache, 20 per cent syrah and 10 per cent mourvèdre from 45-year-old vines on the Plateau de Pielong, this estate counts the Pignan and Rayas vineyards among its neighbours. It’s quite deep with almost an earthy mushroom and truffle edge to the nose. There are a wealth of ripe berry fruits, some fine, fragrant notes and lovely freshness and lift. It delivers a very forthright palate with sweeping rose and red, dark berry fruit flavour, all laid out on supple, sturdy tannins. It’s really juicy and satisfying, with captivating resolve. A bold and convincing wine.

WINE SPECTATOR 15 NOV 2011 – JM – 90 points

A perfumy style, this is tangy, with a mulled spice and damson plum profile, laced with taut red licorice and lightly roasted cedar notes. The tangy feel hangs through the sanguine-tinged finish.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – 91 pts –

Domaine La Roquète is an up-and-coming producer that appears to be doing everything right now that the Brunier family hasz had full control for over a decade. To date, the 2007s have been their finest offerings, but the 2009s abd 2010s are not far behind.
Reveals a Burgundian-like delicacy with notes of spring flowers, sweet cherries, black currants, forest floor and spice. Medium to full-bodied, elegan, pure and well-balanced, it should drink nicely for 12-12 years

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91 -Vivid ruby. Dark berries, potpourri and pungent herbs on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy, sweet and vibrant, with impressive clarity to its black raspberry and lavender pastille flavors. Picks up a smoky note with air and finishes with outstanding energy, focus and length. I also had the chance to re-taste the 2008 bottling and it is still a bit bound up, but aeration bring out sweet dark berry fruit and spices. It looks to be on a slow aging curve for the vintage.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – (90-92) pts –

Since the Bruniers took over this estate, quality has soared, evidenced by their extraordinary 2007s
Not surprisingly, the 2009 possesses deeper [compared to 2008] black raspberry and black cherry fruit notes intertwined with hints of incense, pepper and spring flowers. Elegant and medium to full-bodied with ripe tannins, it should drink well for 10-12 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 90-92 pts – #155 – MAR/APR 2011

Bright ruby-red. Pungent, expressive aromas of black raspberry, licorice, spices, nori and tobacco. Round and velvety, supported by a firm tannic spine that helps to shape the hefty dark berry and spice flavors. A late note of bitter cherry carries through a long, spicy and penetrating finish. I like this wine’s blend of density and energy.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 89 pts –

Since the Bruniers took over this estate, quality has soared, evidenced by their extraordinary 2007s
Medium to full-bodied, an elegant blend of 70% Grenache, 20% syrah and 10% Mourvèdre) exhibits attractive black cherry and framboise notes, silky tannin and a spicy, elegant personality. A very good effort for the vintage, it is best consumed over the next 5-6 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 89pts – #155 – MAR/APR 2011

Deep red. Blackberry and cherry on the nose, complicated by floral and earth notes in the background. Juicy and showing plenty of power for the vintage, with dark berry fruit flavors, a smoky nuance and a touch of anise. Ther\’s good fruit intensity and structure here, and the finish is gripping and nicely persistent. This could use a few years of bottle age.

WINE SPECTATOR – 90 pts – 31 JAN 2011

Juicy and long, with lots of plum saude, fig paste and spice bread flavors carried by anise and graphite notes. Shows a twinge of the vintage’s raisined edge, but stays focused and fresh enough. Asolid effort for the vintage. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2018. 4700cs made. $50

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – 90 pts – 30 NOV 2010

Juicy and long, with lots of plum sauce, fig paste and spice bread flavors carried by anise and graphite notes. Shows a twinge of the vintage’s raisined edge, but stays focused and fresh enough. A solid effort for the vintage. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2018

WINE ADVOCATE #191 – 89 – $40-45

In the past, La Roquète has had terrible representation, but the proprietors, the Brunier family, recently switched to Kermit Lynch as their importer, so hopefully readers will be able to find this wine in the marketplace. Since the Bruniers took over this estate, quality has soared, evidenced by their extraordinary 2007s.
The elegant medium to full-bodied 2008 exhibits attractive black cherry and framboise notes, silky tannin and a spicy, elegant personality. A very good effort for the vintage. It is best consumed over the next 5-6 years.

GAULT MILLAU – FEV-MARS 2010

15.5 – Beau toucher en bouche, très soyeux, anisé, aucunement opulent mais bien tramé. La longueur s\’étire sur des notes mentholées, dans une certaine « brillance » gustative.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Dark red. Ripe dark berries and cherry on the nose, with deeper notes of plum and licorice coming up with aeration. Rich but surprisingly energetic on the palate, offering sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and good mineral snap. A spicy note adds vivacity to the focused, sappy finish. Showing an elegant personality already. 88-90

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating (90-92) – The 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the vintage’s strongest wines. It exhibits medium to full body, supple tannins, and sweet framboise and black cherry fruit notes intermixed with flowers and spice box. This front end-loaded Chateauneuf du Pape is ideal for drinking over the next 5-8 years.
Shrewd connoisseurs of Chateauneuf du Pape should be paying attention to what is taking place at La Roquete. This property was acquired by the Brunier family (who also own Vieux Telegraphe) in the mid-eighties, and over the last 4-5 years they have made successful efforts to upgrade the quality dramatically.

CYBERPRESSE.CA – ****,$$$$

Vin d’un domaine appartenant aux frères Brunier, aussi propriétaires du Domaine du Vieux-Télégraphe, assez peu coloré, son séduisant bouquet, aux nuances de fruits rouges, épicé-boisé, mais sans excès aucun, complexe, fait presque… bourgogne! On retrouve en bouche les fruits rouges, sur des tannins veloutés, avec des notes épicées (le bois), et une bonne persistance. Excellent, malgré son importante teneur en alcool.

SOMMELIER INTERNATIONAL – AOÛT 2010

Nez : plaisant mêlant des arômes explosifs de petits fruits noirs et rouges (cassis, cerise) des notes gourmandes de confiture.
Bouche : attaque ample, une bouche généreuse et moelleuse équilibrée par une belle acidité. Finale dotée de tanins denses, serrés et fermes.
Accords mets et vins : selle de chevreuil aux betteraves.
commentaires : un festival de fruits et de fraîcheur. Merveilleux !!!

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Ruby-red. Pungent aromas of blackberry preserves and plum, with licorice and tobacco notes adding complexity. Showing a more serious personality than it did from barrel, offering weighty dark fruit flavors and a velvety texture. Tannins build with air and add grip to the long, smoky finish. This is acting like a 2005 right now. 91

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating 93 – The finest tradition cuvee yet made, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre aged in foudre and concrete tanks) possesses a deep ruby/purple-tinged color as well as a bouquet of black currants, black cherries, garrigue, pepper, and lavender. It is a full-bodied, ripe, exceptionally elegant, pure wine to drink now or cellar for 12-15 years. Shrewd connoisseurs of Chateauneuf du Pape should be paying attention to what is taking place at La Roquete. This property was acquired by the Brunier family (who also own Vieux Telegraphe) in the mid-eighties, and over the last 4-5 years they have made successful efforts to upgrade the quality dramatically.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

14/20. Le vin est coloré, avec des arômes de quetsche prononcés ; ouvert en bouche, il séduit par sa chair ample mais souple, ses tanins déjà fondus.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER

14 OCT 2009 – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 92 POINTS | $40 | 7,500 CASES MADE – This has gorgeously silky mouthfeel, with layers of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum fruit seamlessly woven with black tea and perfumy pepper and spice notes. The long finish lets the fruit and minerality drip. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2020.—J.M.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90-93 Deep ruby. Very ripe, exotic aromas of boysenberry, kirsch, olive, garrigue and anise. Broad, fleshy and sweet, offering weighty dark berry compote and spice flavors and gentle tannins. This sexy, velvety wine will drink well young but the concentration to age

RVF – JUIN 2008

15.5 / 17.5 – tous les deux sont vinifiés par la famille Brunier. En cours d’élevage, le domaine de la Roquète se déguste mieux que le domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Si le premier brille par son soyeux et des tanins précis, le Vieux Télégraphe fait ressortir la puissance de La Crau par un fruit très mûr donnant un côté vin doux naturel et un volume impressionnant en bouche.

WINE ADVOCATE –30 OCT 2008 – N°179 – ROBERT PARKER

(90-93) – it boasts beautiful density and purity as well as stunning aromatics and a full-bodied, multi-textured style. The freshness and vibrancy achieved because of the cool, exceptionnally dry growing season is well displayed in the beautiful, almost Burgundian-like perfume, but the wine possesses the strength, power and substance of a southern Rhône. Drink it over the next 15 years.

RVF – NOV 2009

Le 2006 a un nez frais, épicé, tandis que la bouche est ferme, un rien carrée pour le moment. Le vin est replié sur sa structure avec des tanins saillants. Finale légèrement abrupte, mais belle pureté de fruit. 17/20

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90 ($38) Vivid red. Bright red berry, floral and mineral aromas are complicated by smoked meat and herbs. Very fresh on the palate, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors, gentle tannins and good back-end cut. There\’s a pinot-like precision to this wine that\’s really intriguing. Finishes brisk and clear.

RVF – JUIN 2007 – ROBERTO PETRONIO

15.5-17 – Nez très doux, notes de caoutchouc, chocolat et fruit noir. Corps profond, belle densite, une pointe d’alcool en finale.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –136 FEB/JAN 08 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90-93 –Deep ruby. The nose offers a seductive bouquet of smoky raspberry and cherry, complemented by fresh flowers and baking spices. Sweet red fruit flavors are accented by licorice and bitter chocolate, and finish with impressive focus and grip. This is strikingly elegant.

JANCISROBINSON.COM – 4 JAN 2008

16.5 – drink 2016-30 – The Brunier brothers blend from several different terroirs is fresh and lively on the nose with fine, sandy tannins. There’s moderately good punch but it’s overall a little restrained somehow. The tannins are pretty dominant at this stage. Wait. Less impressive than I remember the 2004 being.

WINE ADVOCATE – 30 OCT 2008 – N°179 – ROBERT PARKER

89 – from a strong vintage it boasts a deep ruby / purple color followed by beautiful notes of kirsh liqueur, licorice, spring flowers, and a hint of underbrush. Peppery, spicy, elegant, rich, full-bodied, and long, with surprising structure for the vintage, It will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age, and should age well for 15-18 years.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2007 – N°173 – ROBERT PARKER

(89-91) – it is a wine of exceptionnal elegance. Revealing plenty of strawberry jam, kirsh, licorice, earth, and flower characteristics, it is a medium to full-bodied, precocious effort with supple tannin, low acidity, and loads of fruit as well as purity. It should drink beautifully for 10-15 years.

WINE SPECTATOR

TOP 100 2009 – 30 DEC 2008

THE WINE DOCTOR.COM – MARS 2010

Stony cherry fruit and a touch of tobacco on the nose here. On the palate a good substance, grippy and with supple fruit. The texture is fairly gentle, fleshy rather than powerful with a good presence in the midpalate carrying through right to the finish. This is measured, with freshness, and it certainly has appeal. 17 /20

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –22 JAN 2007 – JOSH REYNOLDS

88-91 – Bright red. Spicy red berry aromas complicated by subtle tabacco hint. Pure, fresh and racy, with energetic red fruit flavors and a building licorice note. This suave midweight finishes with fine-grained tannins and very good length.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER –DEC 2007 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

93 – 2500cs imported – $35 – layers of exotic fig, boysenberry and loganberry fruit ripple across the lush, dense structure, while hints of red licorice, linzer torte, mesquite and plum sauce glide through the well-rounded finish. Drink now through 2025

WINE ADVOCATE –22 FEV 2007 – ROBERT PARKER

(90-93) – 35$ – Brunier has been trying to raise the level of this estate and has certainly done so in 2004 abd 2005. the 2005 has a deep reby/purple color and a beautiful, sweet nose of ripe Grenache (think kirsh liqueur) along with raspberries, licorice, pepper, and some Provençal spiciness. About 30% stems were used in the making of this wine, and it is both powerful and elegant, with zesty acidity and morderately high tannin. It is an attractive wine that can be drunk early on or cellared for 12-15 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –136 FEB/JAN 08 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91 – $35 – Bright red. Intense red berry aromas are sharpened by dusty floral and mineral qualities. Pretty strawberry and raspberry flavors offer very good depth and refreshing acidity on the close. This is awfully sexy today.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2007 – N°173 – ROBERT PARKER

89 – $40 – it exhibits much more tannin, sructure, and a more closed personality than its counterpart in 2006. The wine has a dark ruby/purple-tinged colore (darker than the 2006), a rather firm mouthfeel with more animal characteristics, some dark berry fruit, high tannon, medium to full body, and good acidity. This wine needs to be forgotten for 2-3 years and drunk over the following 15.

WINE SPECTATOR

TOP 100 ONLINE – JAMES MOLESWORTH –93 – 41st

—

En 2005, la nature fut d’une grande générosité pour les vignerons du sud de la Vallée du Rhône ; à châteauneuf-du-Pape, nous avons eu notre part du cadeau ; A la Roquète nous avons là un millésime hors du commun: peut-être le meilleur millésime produit depuis notre arrivée en 1986 ; belle profondeur autant en couleur qu’au nez : c’est frais, cerise très mûre, olive verte, réglissé, des arômes plus noirs que rouges. Une bouche onctueuse, généreuse, complexe, c’est net et droit. Les tanins sont sérieux et maîtrisés, on est sur un millésime de garde sans aucun doute, mais dont le côté plaisir reste entier.

WINE ADVOCATE – 23 FEV 2006 – N°163

The Brunier brothers want to upgrade the Château La Roquète. They institude a luxury cuvée from a specific vineyard called les Pialons next to Rayas. However, the REGULAR 2004 ROQUÈTE has plenty of expressive pepper, smoke herbs, and strawberry and black cherry fruit, good acidity, medium body, and a lush, heady finish with plenty of glycerin and fruit. It is clearly a wine to drink during its first 7-8 yers of life.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –22 JAN 2007 – JOSH REYNOLDS

88 – Dark red. Spicy cherry and blackberry on the nose, with a subtle dried herb supported by soft tannins. Finishes bright and fresh, with dusty tannins and good predision.

WINE SPECTATOR ONLINE – 16 FEV 2007 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

91 – 30$ : high-toned at first, with cherry and floral aromas, this quickly shows more density through, with layers of black currant and graphite along with taut, sinewy tannins that drive the finish. Drink now through 2017. 7500cs made

WINE ADVOCATE –22 FEV 2007 – ROBERT PARKER

89 – 35$ Brunier has been trying to raise the level of this estate and has certainly done so in 2004 abd 2005. The 2004 exhibits good sweet kirsh liqueur notes intermixed with some licorice, spring flowers, and earth. Medium-bodied and elegant with sweet tannin, it should drink well for a decade or more.

RVF – NOV 2009

Le 2003 est épicé, avec des notes de fenouil, de réglisse, une belle palette aromatique, sans la chaleur du millésime. La bouche commence à se patiner, mais il reste encore beaucoup d\’énergie dans ce vin qui se montre toujours un rien saillant mais de belle facture. A besoin de temps pour s\’épanouir. 16.5 / 20

VINS ET VIGNOBLES – QUEBEC – DEC 07

Voici une appellation bien difficile à cerner. Avec ses 13 cépages permis dans l’assemblage suivant le bon vouloir du vinificateur, le Châteauneuf-du-Pape est toujours différent d’une maison à l’autre. Celui-ci se présente avec de beaux arômes de fruits mûrs au nez. La bouche par contre est plus difficile à comprendre car les tanins couvrent encore le fruit. Mais à l’aération, on perçoit des notes de tabac. Encore austère, s’il évolue comme le 2001, on aura là une très belle bouteille

WINE SPECTATOR BLOG – 90 pts – Nov 15, 2011

This has aged gracefully, with a sleek, silky feel to the red currant, damson plum, cherry eau-de-vie and blood orange notes, backed by light shadings of clove and charred apple wood on the finish. Picks up a little grip as it opens, but this is pretty much ready to go. 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now through 2015. 7,915 cases made. Release price: $25 | Current price: $25.

THE WINE DOCTOR.COM – MARS 2010

An older wine here, from before the estate was renamed Roquète. An interesting nose, certainly evolved in keeping with this wine\’s maturity, with hints of tea leaf and liquorice. A fresh composition on the palate, supple and certainly mature with hints of undergrowth alongside the very evolved fruit, but not without good substance. This is really appealing, and is ready now. 17.5/20

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

95. The Domaine La Roquète releases are made by the team at Vieux Télégraphe. Lots of white flowers, honeyed melon, white peach, and quince like aromas and flavors emerge from the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Clos La Roquete Blanc and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a great sense of salty minerality, solid mid- palate fleshy, and a dry, crisp finish. This smoking good white can be drunk over the coming 10-15 years.

DECANTER – FEB 2019 – MATT WALLS

94. A subtle, lifted fennel nose. Perilously full and broad on the palate, but then finishes fresh and taut thanks to brisk acdidity and a coiled energy. An intense wine with a glinting mineral line.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(92-94). From a sandy site near Rayas and Pignan, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is an equal-parts blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, fermented and aged in 600-liter demi-muids. It’s medium to full-bodied, with aromas of gently toasted brioche, tangerine and lime. Plump, rich and silky on the palate, it’s wonderfully long and elegant on the finish.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

93-96. Brought up all in demi-muid (it normally sees some barrique), it’s a one-third each of Grenache blanc, Clairette and Roussanne. IT has a beautiful bouquet of melon, pineapple, spices, toasted almonds, and caramelized peach. It’s rich, exotic, has a rounded, beautifully textured mouthfeel, and a great finish.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

94. Broad and ripe, with a gorgeous creamy texture to the melon, fig, pear and yellow apple fruit flavors, all inlaid liberally with heather, singed almond and sweetened butter notes. A light stony spine gives this just enough support, letting the flattering flavors play out beautifully through the finish. Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne. Drink now through 2019. 1,000 cases made.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

95. A ripe and powerful wine. Pear, orchard fruits, spice, toasted brioche, plenty of minerality, medium to full body, good acidity, and plenty of salinity all make for a beautiful white that’s going to shine on the dinner table. It should also last for 10-15 years.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

Written by Richard Hemming for www.jancisrobinson.com

Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Clos la Roquète 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The producer of this wine was previously known as Domaine la Roquète. They merged with Vieux Télégraphe in
May 2017.
Buttery, rounded, sweet spice. Baked-apple fruit with aromatic clove and allspice on the finish.
Perhaps just a bit short, but maybe the length will extend with age. (RH)Drink 2018-2026
£37 RRP imported by Thorman Hunt 16.5+

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

89. Not to be overlooked are the white wines from the estate. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Clos La Roquete comes from a three-hectare plot divided equally among Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne. The grapes undergo fermentation using indigenous yeasts in oak vessels of varying sizes, no more than 10% of which are new. The result is a medium-bodied, slightly honeyed wine with notions of melon, tangerine and pineapple and a fresh, lime-zest finish.

WINE SPECTATOR – SEPT. 13, 2017 – VOL 13, No 36 – J.MOLESWORTH

94. Broad and ripe, with creamy melon, fig, pear and yellow apple, fruit inlaid with heather, singed almond and sweet butter notes. A light stony spine lends support through the finish.

VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Brilliant straw. Meyer lemon, pear and a hint of white flowers on the fragrant nose, along with subtle anise and ginger notes in the backround. Silky and sharply focused on the palate, showing good heft to the fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Unfolds steadily on the finish, leaving behind smoky mineral and bitter lemon pith notes. 91 pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING

From the sandy soils, clairette, roussanne and grenache blanc in equal parts. No additions and a year on lees. Creamy, toasty and very complex. Layered and texturally dense. White peach, succulent palate. Oak builds. Fresh. Drink now. 94 pts

KERMIT LYNCH OFFER – ANTHONY LYNCH

This white is perhaps the most downright drinkable young Châteauneuf white we have ever tasted: suggestions of hay, yellow flowers, and wet stone soar from the glass, while the plate displays a chalky tension that resolves to silky harmony over time. There is elegance and sophistication to be savored immediatly.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(89-91) : Limpid straw. Mineral-tinged pear and melon aromas are sharpened by hints of ginger and lemon zest. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors show good richness, back-end focus and cut thanks to a core of juicy acidity. Finishes minerally and taut, leaving behind a bitter pear skin note.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90 – $49 : Brigh yellow. Expansive aromas of white peach, candied citrus fruits, pear and pundent flowers are complemented by a hint of honey. Concentrated orchard fruit and pit fruit flavors become spicier and more energetic with air, picking a gingery nuance. The floral quality carries though a smooth, seamless finish, which lingers with very good tenacity.

GAULTMILLAU – OCT/NOV 2014

15/20. Un nez subtil aux notes de pommes au four, raisin et pêche de vigne, acacia, fleurs grillées. la trame est encore resserée mais dispose d\’une belle densité. Des sensations diaphanes apportent une touche d\’élégance en finale pour un vin à carafer ou à redécouvrir dans deux ans.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

90. Another outstanding effort. Coming all from sandy soils. It has frist-rate aromas of white peach, white flowers and citrus blossom that turn more toasty and even nutty on the palate. Medium-bodied, with the hallmark acidity and freshness of the vintage, it’s a rock-solid Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc to drink over the coming 3-4 years, or cellar for over a decade.

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 16.5

Offre une bouche ciselée et saline

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

From the Brunier\’s Domaine La Roquete estate and sandy soils, the 2012 La Roquete Blanc is an even split of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne that\’s aged in 50% demi-muids and 50% barrels. Offering up notions of honeysuckle, melon, dried pineapple and mineral aromas and flavors, it is medium-bodied, beautifully textured and shows both richness and freshness. I\’d drink it over the coming 2-3 years, but I suspect it will evolve gracefully for years. Drink now-2017 . 90 pts

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – VOL 9 / N°42 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

A plump version, with heather, salted butter and phyllo dough notes around a core of apricot, white peach and green melon fruit flavors, offering a creamy finish. 93

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2011 – #197 – 88 pts –

Delicate notes of poached pear, citrus oil, grapefruit and honeysuckle are found in this medium-bodied, fresh, unoaked, naked, lively white. Consume it over the next several years.

WINE SPECTATOR 31 OCT 2011 ( INSIDER 7 SEPT 2011) – JM – 93 points

Very enticing, with creamy texture and lovely persistence to the range of salted butter, honeysuckle, green almond, white peach and yellow apple fruit flavors, followed by a long, mineral-driven finish. Drink now through 2013.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91 – (mentionned by mistake as 2009). Pale gold. Intensely perfumed aromas of poached pear, tangerine, anise and herbs. Deeply pitched orchard fruit flavors are given clarity and lift by tangy acidity. The sappy, clinging finish offers excellent definition and spicy persistence.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 88 pts –

Offers abundant aromas of fennel seed, anise, rose petals, pears and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, crisp and fresh, it can be enjoyed over the next 1-2 years.

IWC – JAN 2010 – 90 points – $35

Yellow-gold. Pungent aromas of mango, papaya, peach pit and smoky minerals. Lush, palate-coating tropical fruit flavors are braced by zesty minerals, picking up a note of bitter lemon rind on the back. Suave, penetrating, subtly sweet citrus flavors linger on a spicy finish. This will work with light as well as richer foods.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER rating 90 –

Readers should not ignore La Roquete’s white wine. The 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc (a blend of equal parts Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Bourboulenc) exhibits aromas of anise, flowers, quince, and white peaches in its richly fruity, elegant personality. Consume it over the next year. Shrewd connoisseurs of Chateauneuf du Pape should be paying attention to what is taking place at La Roquete. This property was acquired by the Brunier family (who also own Vieux Telegraphe) in the mid-eighties, and over the last 4-5 years they have made successful efforts to upgrade the quality dramatically.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – 29 OCT 2009 – JM – 91 pts

Nicely ripe for the vintage, with a buttery edge to the peach, melon and starfruit flavors which glide through the plump, creamy finish. Floral hint keeps it all honest. Equal parts Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette. Drink now

RVF – JUIN 2009 – note : entre 18 et 20

DOMAINE LA ROQUETE ET VIEUX TELEGRAPHE
On sent le même coup de partte sur ces deux vins, même si le Vieux Télégraphe s\’impose par une race et une classe supérieures avec son petit nez qui \ »meursaulte\ » par un boisé toasté bien maitrisé. La Roquète offre plus de nervosité, c\’est presque tannique en bouche et sans lourdeur/ Bravo !

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –FEB/JAN 09 – JOSH REYNOLDS

– 90 – one-quarter each roussanne, clairette, grenache blanc and bourboulenc. Greenish gold. Pure, expressive aromas of pear, orange, honey, smoke and chamomile; reminds me of Burgundy. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors are brightened by gentle citrus and mineral qualities, picking up nutmeg and allspice with air. Quite suave, with excellent finishing clarity and smoky persistence.

La fraîcheur du vin se lit dans sa couleur

Des reflets vert-argent soulignés par une brillance parfaite, ne peuvent précéder qu’un nez droit et jeune. Ici les fleurs blanches dominent, c’est fin et élégant : la bouche est onctueuse, fraîche, velours et très longue. Le vin est tout en plaisir et en harmonie, il finit sur des notes d’agrumes et une belle sensation d’équilibre.

LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSEAUVE – GUIDE 2022 – 10 OCTOBRE, 2021

96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, PIEDLONG 2019

Merveilleux de finesse et de fruité aérien, tout l’ensemble présente en plus ce caractère incroyablement digeste qui le place un peu à part dans notre dégustation. C’est superbe. Une bouteille ne suffit pas, il faut acheter des magnums.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

93-95. Coming from the plateau in the center of the appellation and 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Piedlong boasts a more ruby-translucent color to go with feminine, perfumed notes of wild strawberries, loamy soil, herbes de Provence, and peppery garrigue. Playing in the medium to full-bodied end of the spectrum, it has terrific overall balance, some grainy, present tannins, and a great finish. This is another terrific 2019 in the making that’s going to benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 10-15 years.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

93. A blend of 90% grenache for the Piedlong section and 10% mourvedre from the Pignan section, both old-vine parcels. The wild herbs and dried, wild red flowers and roses here are really something, together with grilled meat. Rick and succulent, very fleshy and intense. Drink or hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(93 – 95). Yields were a paltry 12 hectoliters per hectare in the Brunier’s Piedlong parcel, so the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong contains only 85% Grenache (50% whole cluster), while the balance is Mourvèdre. It offers a lovely array of floral and herbal notes layered over raspberry and cherry fruit on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied but seemingly weightless. Fine and elegant already, it finishes long, with pure, almost crystalline lattice-like fruit and silky tannins.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

92-94. A wine that sees plenty of sterns and a big chunk of Mourvèdre. It comes from the Piélong lieu-dit and is mostly Grenache with around 10% of Mourvèdre. It offers a classic Grenache bouquet of raspberries, flowers, and spice, with an almort Rayas-like floral quality. Medium to full-bodied, structured and tannic, yet balanced and light on its feet, it’s a beautiful wine that shines for its elegance and finesse.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

89. All charm, with violet, silky cherry and plum fruit and light lavender notes gliding through. A tug of wet stones shows on the finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan. Drink now through 2018. 5,200 cases made, 2,150 cases imported.

VINOUS – 18 JUILLET, 2018 – 2016 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE: THE BEAT GOES ON – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Piedlong rouge 2016

91-93. (50% whole clusters; aged for a year in concrete vats followed by another year in neutral oak foudres) Deep ruby-red. Assertive red fruit preserve and floral aromas, along with garrigue and spice notes that build steadily in the glass. Juicy and expansive on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of spicecake. Shows a hint of licorice on an impressively long, floral-tinged finish that’s given shape by fine-grained tannins.

EN MAGNUM – #16 / JUIN-JUILLET-AOUT 2019 – NICOLAS DEROUYN

LES MAGNUMS D’EN MAGNUM

L’inconnu de la rubrique : Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2016

[Pourquoi lui]

Je suis tombé dessus un jour par hasard avec l’impression de changer de dimension. À l’aveugle, je ne l’aurais jamais placé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Ce vin est issu d’un assemblage de deux parcelles, les grenaches de Piedlong et les mourvèdres de Pignan, pour 10 %. Du coup, la famille Brunier m’est apparue comme une bande de grands couturiers. Qu’elle est. J’en ai acheté plein.

[On l’aime parce que]

Une telle finesse vaut bien une messe, comme disait à peu près Sully. Est-ce l’âge élevé des vignes (70 ans), sont-ce les galets roulés, le vinificateur est-il un sorcier ?

[Combien et combien]

73 euros / 850 magnums

[Avec qui, avec quoi]

Rassemblez les plus capés de vos amis, baissez la lumière, passez à table. Vous allez enfin montrer à vos convives que vous êtes un maître du vin.

[il ressemble à quoi]

À un bourgogne tout en ciselure, en dentelle. Bref, il y a de l’enthousiasme dans la bouteille, vous allez adorer.

[La bonne heure du bonheur]

Déjà bon, il sera bon tout le temps. Je suis en quête d’un ou deux vieux millésimes, pour confirmer l’impression.

[Le hashtag]

#C9DPfirst

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

98. The tradmark, old-vine-grenache offering of earthy notes with wild berries, herbs, flowers and spices. Wild. Hints of blood oranges and pink-grapefruit peel. Superb, expansive palate shape, all finesse and length. Super-fine, focused and elegant. Refined, regal and majestic. Peppery, bright, wild, red fruit, blood oranges and orange bitters. Decades ahead of this. Drink of hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(94 – 96). Still yet to be bottled, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong is 90% Grenache (from the Piedlong lieu-dit) and 10% Mourvèdre. It offers mouthwatering elements of cherries and raspberries, rose petals and black tea. Silky, lacy and delicate in texture for such a full-bodied wine, it’s immediately charming and seductive.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

94. Always brought up in foudre, it comes from the pebbly soils of the Piélong lieu-dit located in the heart of the appellation. Incorporating 10% Mourvèdre, its medium ruby color is followed by a complex, layered, beautifully Grenache that has lots of savory red fruits, dried strawberries, dried earth, spice, and licorice aromas and flavors. It’s medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced and long.

DECANTER – Tasted by Matt WALLS (at En Primeur tastings, Rhône) 93

50% destemmed fruit. This has an attractive floral nose, very fresh and expressive. Some spicy hints coming through too. Full-bodied, rich and generous on the palate, with some distinct sweetness to the strawberry fruit and a long, fine finish. Slightly raised alcohol, but great finesse. Very fine tannins and a tapered finish. Their best to date.

Drinkin window 2018-2026

Written by Richard Hemming for www.jancisrobinson.com

Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The producer of this wine was previously known as Domaine la Roquète. They merged with Vieux Télégraphe in May 2017.
Earthy and spicy on the nose, with all the volume and intensity to be expected from Châteauneuf – especially in 2016. It’s big in every dimension, but still balanced, and the quality of flavour is impressive. (RH)Drink 2019-2031
£40 RRP imported by Thorman Hunt 17+

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(94-96). The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong comes at you with waves of flowing stone fruit, from cherries, to apricots, to plums. It’s richly concentrated yet velvety, with a long, peppery finish. It looks to be a beauty.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

92. An elegant style, with gentle-edged blood orange, cherry preserve and damson plum fruit flavors gilded with rooibos tea, sandalwood, and shiso leaf accents. The silky, perfumy finish is sneakily long. Drink now through 2027. 3,000 cases made.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

92. The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong has been made since 2011. It’s 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, drawn from the Piedlong and Pignan lieux-dits. With 50% whole clusters, it’s quite floral upfront but also boasts plenty of cherry fruit and cinnamon. It’s full-bodied and creamy in texture, ending on a long, peppery note.

VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Bright violet. Highly perfumed red fruit liqueur, potpourri, licorice and white pepper scents show impressive clarity and vivacity. Sappy, seamless and precise on the palate, offering intense raspberry and floral pastille flavors and a touch of candied lavender. Finishes on a bright mineral note, displaying excellent focus, subtle tannins and emphatic, floral-driven tenacity. This is quite and elegant example of the vintage. (91-93) pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING

10 hectares of elevated Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is an hommage to Grenache with just a hatful of mourvèdre. Ripe raspberry and red plum pastry aromas. Super silky, plush and layered. Extremely impressive. Shows fluidity and balance, density and lightness. 50% stalks (crushed). 95 pts

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER – AOUT 2017 – JEFF LEVE

Light in color, soft, refined and fresh, this is a delicate, feminine, forward styled wine that will be best tasted young for maximum enjoyment of all its spicy, fresh cherries and strawberry notes. The wine was made using a blend of 90% Grenache with 10% Mourvedre. 92 Pts

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

(93 – 95); Loaded with Grenache charm, the 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Piedlong is more upfront and straight-up sexy, with tons of sweet strawberry, incense and garrigue aromas and flavors. This full-bodied, powerful, yet elegant 2015 should drink well for 10-15 years

DECANTER MAY 2016 – VINTAGE REPORT : SOUTHERN RHONE 2014

93. Sultry, perfumed, sweetly spiced nose – a captivating start. A comely wine with latent strength and strong local influences.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

91. The Grenache-dominated 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Piedlong has a distinct saltiness, as well as terrific Grenache charm in its sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit, dried flowers and sandy/loamy soils notes. It is impeccably balanced, has no hard edges and very polished, fine tannin. I like it now, but it will keep for a decade.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(91-93) : Deep, bright-hued red. Spicy raspberry and cherry on the nose, complicated by notes of white pepper, candied flowers and allspice. Juicy and focused, offering ripe cherry and red berry flavors that show a hint of medicinal bitterness. Turns sweeter and deeper with air and shows very good clarity on the finish, which is framed by fine-grained tannins that fold quickly into the sappy fruit.

INTERNATIONAL WINE REPORT – JOE D’ANGELO

93. The 2013 Piedlong is a spectacular showing from the Brunier Family. It instantly opens with gorgeous aromas of dark cherries and black plums, layered with exotic spices, lavender and fresh minerals. This continues to impress on the palate with its wonderful richness and depth, backed by beautifully concentrated flavors of dark fruits, spices and lavender, which carry on well into the finish. Overall, this is a stunning wine which is already extremely appealing, and also shows the potential to evolve for years to come. Composed of 90% Grenache from the Piediong plateau with the addition of 10% Mourvèdre from the district of Pignan

HORS SERIE RVF – NOV 2016 – DOSSIER LES CHAMPIONS DE LA VALLEE DU RHONE

17.5 / 20. Ce vin, tout en nuance et gracieux, s’affirme par un nez d’orangette. La bouche confirme cette harmonie parfaite : sans manquer de chair ni de volume, elle s’étire sur un fruit pur et ciselé. Ce vin épuré démontre un raffinement majeur.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 – $58 : Brillant ruby. Smoky red berry and cherry scents show very good clarity and pick up a floral element with air. Supple, open-knit and juicy, conveying a suggestion of white pepper that sharpens pliant raspberry and cherry cola flavors. The spicy quality repeats on the smooth, expansive and persistent finish, which shows just hint of fine-grained, fully integrated tannins. As forward as this wine is, there’s ample concentration and the requisite balance required for a positive cellaring experience.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

(89-91). Old-vine blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, Piedlong is another rock-solid wine in the vintage. Showing a ripe, textured and sweetly fruited profile, with plenty of berry fruits, roasted spice, dried flowers and black licorice, it too should drink nicely on release and have over a decade of longevity.

WINE SPECTATOR – 15 NOV 2014 – J.MOLESWORTH

92. Features lovely perfume, with a hint of licorice root out front, balanced by notes of warmed raspberry ganache, blackberry pâte de fruit and fruitcake. Presents a fleshy feel on the finish, graced with latent grip and a tarry echo. Best from 2015 through 2025. 500 cases imported.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

92. Only the second vintage for this cuvee. Giving up loads of kirsh, strawberry, dried soil, flowers and hints of meatiness; this classic Grenache is medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, yet remarkably focused and fresh. While the acidity here is relatively low, it has plenty of fine tannin that keep it focused. Drink this beauty over the coming decade.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2015 – COUP DE COEUR – 17

Issue du lieu-dit du même nom, sur un des grands terroirs de l\’appellation, cette cuvée remplace l\’ex- domaine La Roquète rouge. Ensemble généreux et pur, d\’une grande précision dans l\’extraction d\’un tannin fin et intégré au corps.

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 18.5

Somptueuse cuvée Piedlong. Un quasi pur grenache avec une bouche finement veloutée et un fruit d’un parfait équilibre. Tout en harmonie, à la fois souple et distingué.

RVF – OCT 2014 – Dossier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012

17/20 – distingué dans les 32 vins les mieux notés sur 220 bouteilles dégustées .
Le haut plateau du Pied-Long est le terroir culminant de Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Assemblage de 90% de grenache et de 10% de mourvèdre, ce vin se montre gracieux, tendre comme une caresse de fruit. ici on ne cherche pas la mâche mais la subtilité d’un fruit qui s’exprime tout en douceur.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Vivid ruby. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of red berries, dried flowers and peppery spices. The focused palate shows a penetrating quality to the sweet raspberry, cherry and bitter chocolate flavors. This vibrant, taut wine finishes quite long, with gentle spiciness and an echo of floral pastilles. 90-92

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

new wine that replace the l’Accent de la Roquete from the vintage 2011 (and going forward, there will be no more red wine produced from the la Roquete estate), the 2012 Piedlong is a superb looking tank sample. Comprised of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre and vinified all in wood tank, with 30% whole-cluster, it possesses medium to full-bodied richness, firm tannin and excellent purity, with plenty of blackberry fruit, dried spice and licorice on the nose. Give it a couple years in the cellar and it should impress through 2024. Drink 2016-2024. (91-93 pts)

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2015 – 17

[…]la famille Brunier ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool mais au contraire l\’équilibre et la buvabilité. Pour cela on joue sur l\’encépagement complexe et l\’on ne recherche pas forcément le raisin en surmaturité ! […]

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Brilliant ruby. Pungent aromas of raspberry, cherry, white pepper and dried violet. Deep cherry and bitter chocolate flavors are enlivened by peppery spice and floral pastille qualities, with tangy acidity giving the wine spine. Quite deep for the year, finishing with very good power and length. 90

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

New wine that will replace the l\’Accent de la Roquète cuvee from the vintage 2011 (and going forward, there will be no more red wine produced from the la Roquete estate). Comprised of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre and vinified all in wood tank, with 30% whole-cluster An outstanding effort that dishes out notions of spiced meats, olive, pepper and black currants as well as medium to full-bodied richness and depth, sweet fruit and ample texture. A classic, beautifully made 2011, it will benefit from another year or two in the cellar and have 10-12 years of ultimate longevity. Drink 2015-2023. 91 pts

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – VOL 9 / N°42 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

Ripe and focused, offering a deliciously silky core of kirsch, blackberry preserves and steeped cherry, lined with mouthwatering anise and shiso leaf hints. 92

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #166 – JAN/FEB 2013 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Deep ruby. A highly perfumed bouquet displays blackberry, dried cherry, plum and Indian spices. Shows a lot of power for the vintage. Full, fleshy and deep, offering sweet dark berry and spice flavors lifted by zesty acidity. Sappy and smooth on the finish, echoing the dark berry notes. 89-91

IN-VINO-VERITAS.FR – 28 OCT 2013

Dégusté lors des 10è rencontres chez Georges Henner (Mulhouse)
Nouvelle cuvée du domaine provenant des plus belles parcelles de Grenache et de Mourvèdre des lieux-dits Piedlong et Pignan. Les raisins issus de ces terroirs entraient précédemment dans la Roquète rouge mais au vu de la qualité de ces parcelles, la famille Brunier a décidé de séparer leur production du reste du vignoble et leurs raisins entrent maintenant dans cette nouvelle cuvée entièrement dédiée à ce magnifique terroir. Ce superbe vin allie la richesse du fruit noir et des épices avec une élégance et une fraîcheur déconcertantes. Les terroirs Piedlong et Pignan se trouvent au Nord de l’appellation et savent garder cette fraîcheur si importante pour des vins aussi riches qu’à Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Cela fait quelques années que le maître de chai argentin du Domaine s’est passionné pour la diversité des terroirs du village et c’est avec grand plaisir que je découvre cette beauté, que nous avons longuement partagés avec Corinne Estadieu. La finale est longue et persistante avec une superbe petite note iodée. Quel fond ! Quel vin ! Un coup de coeur que je n’arrive pas à départager avec le Crozes-Hermitage 1920 de Gilles Robin: je crois bien que je vais devoir prendre les deux !

LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSAEUVE – GUIDE 2022 – 10 OCTOBRE, 2021
96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, TÉLÉGRAMME 2019

Ce classique de l’appellation plaira par ses arômes de fruits rouges et noirs mûrs et par la profondeur de son corps. Ensemble satisfaisant, agréable et équilibre.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

91-93+. Moving to the 2019s, these unquestionably have another level of concentration and depth over the 2018s. Starting with the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Télégramme, this deep purple-hued beauty boasts a great nose of both black and blue fruits, peppery herbs, and crushed stone to go with a medium to full-bodied, meaty, mouthfilling style on the palate. It’s one of the more structured vintages for this cuvée that I can recall, and it also might just be one of the best yet.

JOHN SZABO, MS – 24 MARS, 2021 – WINE ALIGN, LCBO, CANADA

93. Rich, ripe, heady and particularly stony, Vieux Télégramme 2nd wine is a savoury, well-balanced, especially succulent wine, with fine, firm, gritty tannins and a marvelously saline flavour profile complete with wild herbs, cold gravel, and a range of fresh-ripe red and black fruit. I particularly admire the comfort and ease on the palate, concentrated and complex without recourse to excessive ripeness or exaggerated concentration. Length and depth, too, are excellent. A genuinely classy wine; drink or hold mid-term. Tasted March 2021.

DAVID LAWRASON – 23 MARS, 2021 – WINE ALIGN, LCBO, CANADA

93. Telegramme is the second label of the esteemed Vieux Telegraphe. This is a ripe, rich easy yet elegant Chateauneuf for drinking at will. The nose effortlessly combines plum-berry jam, red rose, fine brown spice, pepper and warmed earth. It is medium-full bodied, very smooth, and almost silky in texture. The length is excellent. Real poise and some charm here. Best now to 2030.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

90. The quality of the entry-level cuvée from this estate has soared over the past decade and the 2018 Chàteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is unquestionably an outstanding wine. Revealing a deep ruby/purple color as well as Provençal notes of spiced blue fruits, ground pepper, garrigue, and violets, it has medium to full-bodied richness, plenty of mid -palate depth (which can be lacking in a number of 2018s), notable balance, and just a delicious, Provençal, ready to go style. lt’s ideal for enjoying anytime over the coming 7-8 years.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCT, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

92-93. This has a lot of red fruit, a lot of personality and a lot of brambly aromas with spicy nuances, too. The palate has a very smooth build and a deep, plum and red-fruit core, framed in long, noble and rich, ripe tannins. The immediate fleshy appeal is high. Wait for the rest. Try from 2022.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

90-92. Including slightly less Grenache than normal, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is the entry level wine of the estate, yet it always delivers plenty of character. Violets, ripe cherries, blue fruit hints, and ground pepper all give way to a medium to full-bodied, fruit-forward, fleshy, nicely textured 2018 that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate.

VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

92-93. Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

93-94. Bright and brambly. Ripe, blueberry, raspberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herb notes. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great value. Barrel sample.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(90 – 92). A prospective tank sample of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme was full-bodied but not particularly rich or concentrated considering the overall vintage character. Crisp strawberry and black cherry fruit are edgy, with firm tannins and clearly in need of additional élevage.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

90-92. Vinified and aged in tronconique tanks, Télégramme (it’s the classic blend but slightly shifted toward the Mourvèdre) offers a rich, concentrated, structured style that over the past 5-10 years has shown more depth, elegance, and structure. Black raspberries, white flowers, graphite, garrigue, and mineral notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, layered, beautifully textured 2017 that has fine tannin, plenty of depth and a good finish.

VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins.

Drink 2022-2031.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

96. Very complex and composed. Bright aromas of wild, red-berries and herbs. Some blueberry pastry, too. Plush, ripe and concentrated palate with long, smooth, ripe and powerful tannins. Great depth and detail. Fresh, red-berry and plum flavors run riot on the finish. Drink or hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

91. Boasting silky tannins, strawberry-raspberry fruit and delicate herbal shadings, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme isn’t hugely rich or concentrated, but it is harmonious and graceful. Bottled in March 2018, it’s immediately approachable yet capable of providing pleasure over the next 5-7 years.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

92. Bottled in April (which is always earlier than the other two Châteauneuf from this estate) it has real depth and richness as well as terrific notes of black raspberries, crushed rocks, salty, licorice, pepper, crushed flowers, and toasted spices. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, with plenty of tannins hiding under its fruit, it’s an ideal wine for readers looking to see a hint of the style of this estate. It will keep for over a decade as well.

Written by Richard Hemming for www.jancisrobinson.com

Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Gorgeously ripe red fruit with cranberry and redcurrant flavours. Lightly spiced, superbly balanced structure with tannin and acid counterbalancing nicely. Finishes with a firm, ageable grip and lovely long savoury persistence. (RH)Drink 2020-2030
£111 per case of 6 ib Clarion Wines 17+

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(89-91). Slightly more concentrated than the 2015, the 2016 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium to full-bodied yet supple, berry-scented wine. It should drink well for a decade.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

91. A silky, elegant style, with light blood orange, bitter cherry and damson plum fruit stretching out over sandalwood, bergamot and incense notes. Gentle but persistent through the finish. Drink now through 2027. 11,200 cases made.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

88. Drawn from young vines (under 40 years old) in La Crau and six or seven other parcels regardless of age, the 2015 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape features pretty cherry fruit and a fine dusting of clove and allspice. It’s a supple, easy-to-drink wine to be consumed Young.

VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Vivid ruby-red. The complex, highly perfumed nose evokes fresh raspberry, cherry, spicecake and lavender. Juicy, seamless and liverly on the palate, offering focused red fruit, succulent herb and spicecake flavors that deepen on the back half. Nicely concentrated but also lithe and precise. Gentle tannins give shape to the energetic fruit on the clinging finish. (90-92) pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING

This is from the vineyards around La Crau. Fresh, bright raspberry and strawberry fruit aromas with a smooth, ripe and red plum-flavored palate. Pastry-like layers of fine tannins. Drink now. 93 Pts

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER – AOUT 2017 – JEFF LEVE

Elegant, refined, forward, medium bodied and focused on its red fruits and silky textures, over concentration and power. This charmer is already quite taste and easy to drink. 90 Pts

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

89+. One of the finer, more elegant and classy examples of the cuvée I can remember, the 2015 Télégramme Châteauneuf du Pape is more a mini Vieux Telegraphe at this point than the more fruit-forward Télégramme examples of the past. Framboise, currants, dried earth and garrigue all emerge from this medium-bodied, elegant and finesse-driven wine that’s ideal for drinking while you wait on the top cuvée.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

88. Bottled in January (the other cuvées were bottled in July), the 2014 Télégramme Châteauneuf du Pape is a terrific introduction into the style of the estate, and in the past where it was a more fruit-forward, easy wine, today it has more elegance, purity and longevity. Black cherries, hints of raspberries and crushed rocks all emerge from this juicy, medium-bodied effort that will keep nicely for 4-6 years.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90 – $46 : Brilliant red. A lively, spice-tinged nose displays zesty red berry and floral scents, along with hints of succulent herbs and white pepper. Taut red currant and strawberry flavors open up and deepen slowly with air, showing very good clarity and picking up a sweet lavender pastille quality. Shows appealing finesse and nerve, with no rough edges, and finishes on a resonating floral note with sneaky, harmonious tannins.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90 – $46 : Bright ruby. Ripe cherry and raspberry on the perfumed nose gain lift and spice from a peppery quality. Juicy and smooth on the palate, offering gently sweet red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint of succulent herbs. Shows good energy on the supple finish, which is framed by fine-grained tannins and lifted by tangy acidity.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

(87-90). The young-vine, entry-level Telegramme is solid, and this cuvee continues to offer more and more bang for the buck as the vines mature. The goal is upfront and easy-drinking, while still showing classic Vieux Télégraphe character. It has beautiful aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a fleshy, ripe, supple profile that can be hard to come by in this vintage. It has outstanding potential and will drink nicely on release.

WINE SPECTATOR – WEB ONLY 2014 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

89. Features a core of dark fig and steeped black currant fruit while remaining silky in feel overall, with subtle chestnut, bay and lavender notes hanging in the background. Approachable, but there\’s no rush. Drink now through 2022

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

88. Offers a supple, textured and ready-to-go fell. Giving up loads of sweet cherry, leather, licorice and floral aromas and flavors. It’s ideal fro drinking over the coming 4-6 years

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2015 – 15.5

[…]la famille Brunier ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool mais au contraire l\\\’équilibre et la buvabilité. Pour cela on joue sur l\\\’encépagement complexe et l\\\’on ne recherche pas forcément le raisin en surmaturité ! […]

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 16

Se montre plus chaleureux (que Piedlong 2012) dans ses parfums et offre davantage de relief.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Deep red. Vibrant red berry, lavender and mineral aromas, with a subtle garrigue quality building in the glass. Bright, racy and pure, offering fresh raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Sweeter and fuller on the finish, which features soft tannins and a late kick of white pepper. Distinctly elegant Chateauneuf with no excess weight; in fact, there\’s something pinot-like going on here. 91-93

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Moving to the Chateauneufs and the Brunier\’s entry level offering (a second wine, if you will, and includes grapes from Vieux Telegraphe and La Roquete), the 2012 Telegramme is fruity and up-front, with medium-bodied richness and depth, excellent aromatics and an easy-drinking feel. It will be a delicious drinker to consume over the coming 5-6 years. Drink now-2020. (87-89 pts)

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

With up-front blackberry, tobacco leaf, licorice and olive tapenade, the 2011 Telegramme (70% Grenache and the balance Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged all in foudre) is medium-bodied, soft and supple, with sweet fruit and solid freshness. It, too, is a rock-solid drinker that has plenty of character. Drink now-2019. 88 pts

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Vivid ruby. Fresh red berries and garrigue on the fragrant, high-pitched nose. Juicy and precise, offering gently sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes soft and supple, with no obvious tannins and good cling. 89-91

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS

($44) Ruby-red. Aromas and flavors of candied red berries and garrigue, with a spicy nuance adding vivacity. Intensely floral and seamless in texture; this is quite approachable. Finishes sweet and very long, with lingering spiciness and only a hint of tannins. 91

WINE ADVOCATE – (88-90) pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

A big kiss of raspberry and kirsch liqueur jumps from the glass. Displaying slightly more acidity and freshness than the 2009, the 2010 represents a good introduction to the style of Vieux Télégraphe

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90-92. Bright ruby-red. Fresh raspberry, wild strawberry and rhubarb on the nose, along with an attractive floral nuance. Silky and pure, the red fruit flavors showing good energy and betraying no rough edges. Open-knit and and well-balanced Chateauneuf with resonating floral and raspberry notes on the finish.

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

2009 Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape (A$85) is a rich amalgam of ripe yet fresh mixed summer berries with a distinct raspberry tinge to the fruit. It’s bright. with some candied red licorice too. The palate is supple and juicy with medium-weight tannins and light-spiced oak. Compact with good length, it will fill out in time. This is a vintage to leave for some years.

WINE SPECTATOR 31 OCT 2011 – JM – 91 points

A juicy, gutsy style, with a core of crushed plum, braised fig and warm red and black cherry confiture notes backed by flashes of apple wook and tobacco on the open, lively finish. Drink now through 2018.

WINE ADVOCATE – 89 pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

Exhibits lots of kirsch, damp earth and spice box notes in its medium to fullbodied, endearing, open-knit, charming personality. Enjoy it over the next 5-6 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91. Vivid red. Floralaccented scents of candied red fruits and herbs. Refreshingly bitter and precise, with energetic raspberry and cherry flavors picking up spiciness with air. The floral quality comes back on the bright, spicy, very persistent finish. I like this wine\’s clarity and balance.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – (88-90) pts –

Exhibits sweet framboise, kirsch and licorice notes intermixed with hints of garrigue and pepper. Fruity and medium to full-bodied with silky tannins and a lovely, up-front, precocious personality, it will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-6 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 89-91 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011

Bright red. Fresh red fruits, violet and minerals on the pungent nose. Suave and understated in the mouth, offering lively cut and pure redcurrant and raspberry flavors. Packs a good punch but this wine is quite feminine in style. Balanced and harmonious Chateauneuf, finishing with good spicy length and silky tannins.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – #191 – 86 pts –

Delicious up-front, fruity, medium-bodied, soft effort displaying lots of herb-tinged strawberry and kirsh characteristics. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 88 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011

Bright red. Raspberry and cherry on the high-toned, spicy nose. Light and precise, featuring slightly bitter red fruit and cherry pit flavors that are somewhat clenched. Opens up with air and finishes with good nervy cut and precision.

WINE SPECTATOR – 89 pts – 31 JAN 2011

Ripe and round, with nice mouthfeel to the lush red and black cherry compote, fig sauce and anise notes. The long, violet-and-mineral filled finish has a lightly firm edge. Drink now through 2015. 4900cs made – $38

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating (87-89) – not yet released – Vieux Telegraphe-s second wine, Telegramme (which sports a brilliant label in my opinion), is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, primarily from the estate-s younger vines, The 2008 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a medium ruby color, supple tannins, sweet red cherry and currant fruit, and an upfront, tasty style. Enjoy it over the next several years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Bright red. Spicy red berries and cherry on the nose. Lively, tightly knit red fruit flavors are given depth by a hint of cola and framed by silky tannins. Taut and linear in a pinot way, finishing with good clarity and spiciness. 87-89

DECANTER – MARCH 2010 – recommended ***

Grenache fruit, hint of earth. Old style Châteauneuf, very complete and approachable, but not overly complex. 16.2

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Deep red. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, wild rose, Asian spices and smoked meat. Brighter red fruits on the palate, with notes of cola and candied flowers gaining strength with air. Showing more depth, richness and warmth than last year. Finishes with very good grip and an echo of smoke. 90

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating 90 – The outstanding 2007 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape (15.8% alcohol) offers notes of kirsch liqueur, spring flowers, and framboise, medium to full body, good acidîty, a beautiful texture, and a luscious, heady finIsh. It is best drunk over the next 5-6 years.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90-93 Vivid red. Assertive aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, fresh lavender and minerals; there\’s a pinot-like vibrancy here that I like. Brisk and sharply defined, offering tangy red berry flavors, silky texture and good mineral snap. The finish is gently sweet and impressively pure. This wine is made from young vines from the Bruniers\’ Vieux Telegraphe and Domaine La Roquete.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90 ($39) Deep red. Vivid red berry and cherry liqueur aromas complemented by baking spices and white pepper. The supple, gently sweet palate offers deeper dark berry flavors. The peppery note repeats on the finish, which leaves behind sappy raspberry and blueberry notes. The lively fruit here is more straightforward that that of the La Crau.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

95. One of my favorite whites from the south of France is Daniel Brunier’s Châteaneuf du Pape Blanc and his 2019 is another stunning effort. Always a blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up in foudre, this beauty boasts and exotic nose of honeyed peach, quince, crushed citrus, and salty minerality, all with a floral edge. Medium to full-bodied on the palate with flawless balance and beautifully integrate acidity, enjoy this concentrated white anytime over the coming 15-20 years.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCT, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

96. Traditionally dominated by clairette (45%) and grenache blanc (30%), then roussanne and bourboulenc. The vines average 50+ years and there’s a very restrained nose with dialed-back white-pear and chalk aromas with dried flowers, too. The palate has a super fresh, zippy feel and a long, juicy and attractive core of fresh, salty minerals. The balance is innate and very fluid. Drink or hold.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

93-95+. A blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc brought up mostly in foudre, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc offers a more crystalline style with its white peach, crushed citrus, white flower, and obvious minerality. Clean, pure, and chiseled on the palate, it has good concentration, and almost red wine-like structure, and a great finish. It’s going to age beautifully.

VINOUS – 29 OCT. 2018 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

(94-95). Bright straw-yellow. Powerful aromas of fresh pear and white peach are complicated by suggestions of orange zest, iodine and succulent lowers. Sappy and impressively delineated on the palate, offering intense pear skin, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle flavors that deepen and pread out steadily on the back half. Hints of marzipan and candied ginger emerge on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish that echoes the floral and citrus fruit notes.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

96. A stonier, more mineral expression of white Châteauneuf with impressive body and concentration. Super-fresh, white flowers, flint and delicate pears here. The palate has a strong, mineral edge, smooth phenolics, fleshy stone fruit and a neat, fine, chalky finish. Drink in 2020

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(93-95). VT’s 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of 45% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc, fermented in a mix of foudres, demi-muids and barriques. It’s medium to full-bodied but tight, with crisp lime, lemon and pear notes carried on a silky-textured palate. You could drink this on release and enjoy it for its focus and delineation, or you could give the inner richness the time it needs (2-3 years) to emerge and soften the subtle citrus zest notes on the finish

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

95. It’s always more straight, focused, and chiseled than the La Roquète. Lemon curd, white flowers, salty minerality, and ample licorice notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, beautifully balanced white. Give it a few years.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

95. Ripe and rich, but focused, with verbena, bitter almond and wet stone notes threading through the core of creamed yellow apple, pear and melon flavors. Very long, with a gorgeous salted butter echo. Drink now through 2020. 2,100 cases made.

VINOUS – 29 OCT. 2018 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

94. Limpid yellow. Penetrating citrus and orchard fruit aromas are joined by suggestions of chalky minerals, fennel and jasmine. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering mineral-driven pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb definition and drive. The mineral and pear notes repeat emphatically on the nervy finish, which hangs on with impressive focus and persistence.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

94. In just one short year, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has blossomed into a richer wine, with ripe pineapple and tangerine flavors balanced by crisp lime notes. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts a lovely, silky texture and a long, finely nuanced finish. It should drink well for another 5-7 years.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

DECANTER – Tasted by Matt WALLS (at En Primeur tastings, Rhône) 93

Breezy, blossomy style with citrus pith. Full-bodied with good concentration but good acidity, fresh and lively. There’s lovely balance between vibrant fresh fruits, acidity and some discreet, pithy structural bitterness. The long finish displays some subtle oak influence.

Drinkin window 2018-2022

Written by Richard Hemming for www.jancisrobinson.com

Dom du Vieux Télégraphe 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Stunning baked-apple fruit with cinnamon spice and white chocolate. Charming and generous, but has good acidic backbone too. Refreshing and satisfying, and concentrated enough to age well. (RH)Drink 2018-2024
£55 RRP imported by Thorman Hunt 17+

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

91. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is tight and zesty, reflecting its high proportion of Clairette (40%), low proportion of Roussanne (15%) and the addition of Bourboulenc (15%) to the blend. Lime zest and the merest hints of pencil shavings mark this medium-bodied white. If you enjoy aging your white Châteauneufs, this would be one to put away.

WINE SPECTATOR – SEPT. 13, 2017 – VOL 13, No 36 – J.MOLESWORTH

VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Brilliant straw-gold. Mineral-laced citrus and orcahrd fruit aromas show excellent clarity and a suave floral overtone. Minerally and delineated on the palate, which displays sharply focused pear, tangerine and honeysuckle flavors that turn fleshier with air. Concentrated yet light on its feet. A vibrant mineral note drives the impressively long, floral finish. 92 pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING

The palate is crisp and floral, with dried flowers and chalk. An extremely savory and stony expression. Impressive. Average

vine age of 50 years.. 95 Pts

WINE SPECTATOR – DEC. 15, 2016 – JAMES MOLESWORTH

95. This is packed with a range of star fruit, anise, white peach, yellow apple and Cavaillon melon notes that run seamlessly together, gilded with chamomile and orange blossom details on the creamy finish. An echo of wet pebbles adds further range and intrigue. 342 cases imported.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

95. While I’ve always loved the white from the Brunier brothers, the 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc is the finest example of this cuvée I can remember tasting. It’s light gold color is followed by an impeccably balanced, ultra-pure, seamless white that has complex notes of white flowers, hazelnuts, just crushed rocks and citrus blossom. This beauty doesn’t hit you over the head with fruit or sweetness, yet grows on you with time in the glass. You can drink it today, as well as cellar it for two decades.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(90-92) : Brilliant straw. Lively scents of pear and lemon curd pick up smoky mineral and tarragon accents as the wine oopens up. SIlky and seamless on the palate, offering nervy orchard fruit and citrus fruit flavors energized by juicy acidity and a gingery nuance. Shows impressive power and intensity on the penetrating finish, which leaves behind notes of bitter pear skin and dusty minerals.

SUPPLEMENT VIN – JOURNAL DU DIMANCHE – BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE – 27 NOV. 2016

17/20. Merveilleuse matière, notes de fenouil et d’anis parmi les plus fins de l’appellation.

VINEOUS – APRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 – 76$ : Pale yellow. Sharply focused aromas of fresh pear and Meyer lemon take on a weightier peach quality with air while maintaining vivacity. Silky and seamless on the palate, offering incisive citrus and pit fruit flavors complemented by suave floral and mineral notes. Shows impressive power and intensity on the mineral-driven finish, which leaves behind notes of citrus pith and honeysuckle.

VINEOUS – JAN 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91 – 76$ : Light, bright yellow. Fresh orange, nectarine and pungent floral qualities on the nose, along with hints of ginger and honey. Silky and seamless in texture, offering sappy citrus fruit and pear nectar flavors and a touch of smoky minerality. The pit fruit note comes back on the long, penetrating finish, which shows a silky quality and no rough edges.

GAULTMILLAU – OCT/NOV 2014

16/20. Ce vin vif et enjoué, aux tonalités minérales et chaleureuses, agrémenté de parfums de fruits et de fleurs jaunes, de liqueur de pêche, s\’émancipe énergiquement en un nectar fluide et gargarisant. Il imprègne durablement nos papilles

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

93. It’s a layered, classic white from appellation that has plenty of pear and stone fruits, white flowers and big minerality in its medium-bodied, seamless, yet concentrated profile. While certainly beautiful now, it will age gracefully for decades

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 16.5

Ce blanc propose davantage de volume et une sensation presque tannique avec de fins amers en finale.

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Starting out, this is a blend of roughly 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc and the balance Roussanne and Bourboulenc that-s aged all in foudre. A textbook Chateauneuf du Pape white, it offers clean, pretty notes of white peach, green almond and honeysuckle as well as a medium to full-bodied, concentrated, yet very fresh and crisp feel on the palate. Enjoy it anytime over the coming decade or more. Drink now-2022 . 93 pts

THE RHONE REPORT – JEB DUNNUCK – ISSUE # 9 – 25 SEPT 2011 – 94 pts

The totally brilliant 2010 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc is an old vine blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache blanc, 15% Roussanne, and 15% Bourboulenc that’s aged in 1/3 foudre, 1/3 demi-muid, and 1/3 in barrels (10% new). Easily the best white I’ve tasted from this estate, it delivers a rocking bouquet of crisp peach and pear fruit that are livened up by richer, custard like qualities and riveting minerality. Medium to full-bodied on the palate and brilliantly concentrated, with a rich, yet light texture, good acidity, and a very long, classically dry finish. This fantastic white is deft and crisp enough to enjoy on its own, but has the richness to pair with a wide variety of fare. It should age beautifully for 15 years.

WINE SPECTATOR 31 OCT 2011 ( INSIDER 7 SEPT 2011) – JM – 94 points

This cuts a nice path, with crème fraîche, green plum, pear and Jonagold apple flavors all woven together and offset nicely by a flash of quinine on the finish. This should age well. This best vintage yet for a Vieux Télégraphe white. Drink now through 2014

WINE ADVOCATE – 89 pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

This example is more delicate than previous vintages, but well-delineated with hints of wet rocks, quince and honeyed citrus offered in a medium to full-bodied, fresh, lively style. Less weighty and powerful than the 2009, the elegant 2010 should drink well for 1-2 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

91. Pale gold. Bright and racy on the nose and palate, offering lively lemon, orange and pear qualities and zesty minerality. Fleshy but dry, with very good back-end cut and finishing clarity. I like the combination of power and finesse here. This wine has a sound track record for aging and I suspect that this will be a really interesting wine five or six years down the road.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92. Light, bright gold. Sexy aromas of orange, poached pear, jasmine and ginger. Juicy, fresh and concentrated, offering zesty citrus and orchard fruit flavors that become sweeter and spicier with air. Shows excellent focus on the long, energetic finish, which features notes of smoky minerals and nectarine.

WINE ADVOCATE – 90 pts – 31 OCT 2010 – #191

Exhibits delicate floral notes interwoven with hints of pears, nectarines, red currants and crushed rocks. It is a fresh, full-bodied, delicious white to enjoy over the next several years.

WINE ADVOCATE – 31 OCT 2010 – $50

Excibits delicate floral notes interwoven with hints of pears, nectarines, red currants and crushed rocks. It is a fresh, full bodied, delicious white to enjoy over the next several years. 90pts.

IWC – JAN 2010 – 90 points – $60

Greenish yellow. Ripe melon and peach on the nose, with lively citrus and mineral nuances adding vibrancy. Pliant and smooth, offering pure honeydew and pit fruit flavors underscored by talc and spicecake. The finish is spicy, stony and impressively pure.

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

14/20. Le boisé vanillé domine encore le nez, qui se poursuit par des notes de moka ; le vin se révèle ample et flatteur en bouche avec une certaine vivacité en finale.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – 29 OCT 2009 – JM – 92 points

Ripe, honeyed style, with grilled hazelnut and heath notes up front, followed by bitter orange, nectarine and lemon zest notes. Nice length and drive. Drink now through 2010

RVF – JUIN 2009 – note : entre 18 et 20

DOMAINE LA ROQUETE ET VIEUX TELEGRAPHE
On sent le même coup de partte sur ces deux vins, même si le Vieux Télégraphe s\\\’impose par une race et une classe supérieures avec son petit nez qui \ »meursaulte\ » par un boisé toasté bien maitrisé. La Roquète offre plus de nervosité, c\\\’est presque tannique en bouche et sans lourdeur/ Bravo !

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –FEB/JAN 09 – JOSH REYNOLDS

90; 40% clairette, 30% grenache blanc and 15% each of roussanne and bourboulenc. Pale yellow. Sexy aromas of pear, melon, brown spices and honeysuckle, plus a hint of toasty lees. Fleshy orchard and citrus flavors stain the palate and are braced by tangy minerals. Really clings on the finish, with the leesy quality strongly repeating. This is powerful enough to serve with richly sauced poultry dishes.

DECANTER – MAY 2009 – RHONE VALLEY TOP 2007 – J. Livingstone

**** (17) – Rich bouquet, apricot, vanilla, pepper. Good, beefy shoulders with underlying finesse. Very nice. Drink 2009-2023

WINE ADVOCATE –N°179 – 30 OCT 2008 – ROBERT PARKER

90 – represents 7% of this estate’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape production. Is an unusual blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache blanc, and the rest equal parts Roussane and Bourboulenc. One of the most consistent and finest of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it offers up a floral character (reminiscent of Viognier) along with with white currants, and hints of rose water and honey. It possesses medium to full body, crisp, zesty acidity, superb purity, and an elegant mouthfeel. Enjoy it over the next several years

Commentaire

Dès le premier nez, on perçoit un excès de jeunesse, un manque de maturité ; le bois est encore présent, pas dominant du tout mais un élevage de quelques mois en bouteille lui permettra de s’intégrer définitivement. De même en bouche, on discerne de la profondeur, de l’intensité mais la structure lutte encore un peu avec le velours du vin. Très beau millésime de Vieux Télégraphe blanc tout en harmonie et délicatesse, il atteindra un premier équilibre en début d’année 2008 pour le plus grand plaisir des amateurs de Châteauneuf blanc de l’école classique.

LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSEAUVE – GUIDE 2022 – 10 OCTOBRE, 2021

98 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE 2019

La grande émotion de notre dégustation. Finesse de texture à couper de souffle, matière magnifique, fruit parfaitement mûr, avec cette impression folle d’évidence. L’évidence du grand vin, la tendresse en plus. Un modèle pour tous. Le cru est au sommet de son art.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

96-98. Looking at the flagship 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape from this benchmark estate, it reveals a denser ruby/purple color as well as stunning notes of smoke red and black fruits, crushed rocks, peppery garrigue, and truffly earth. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness, it stays tight and compact on the palate, with terrific mid-palate depth, a focused, structure mouthfeel and one great finish. This is a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape from the Brunier family that’s going to benefit from upwards of 5-7 years of bottle age and have 30+ years of overall longevity.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – 6 OCTOBRE, 2020

94. The flagship of the great estate is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape and it could quite possibly be one of the longest lived wines in the 2018 vintage, which in general, is a charming, forward vintage geared for consumption in the first decade of life. Revealing a more ruby, almost translucent color as well as a greal perfume of wild strawberries, blackberries, Asian spices, peppery garrigue, and flowers, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a building, undeniable sense of minerality, plenry of mid-palate depth, and enough tannins to warrant 2-3 years or bottle age. lt has the more upfront, expressive style of the vintage yet my money is on this evolving for 15-20 years.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 16, 2019 – JEB DUNNUCK

93-95. The grand vin is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape. It’s an elegant version of this cuvée, offering beautiful blueberry, raspberry, crushed violet, graphite, and crush rock-like minerality. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and balanced, it’s polished and seamless, yet has plenty of tannins as well as richness, and is going to evolve beautifully.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

94-95. The finished blend that is now aging another year in 60 hectoliter barrels, this has a very fleshy, round, rich and smooth-honed palate that has such completeness already. The raspberries and red plums are stunning here. The tannins are there and very open-knit and there’s a super sapid feel to the finish. The 15% mourvedre does much of the heavy lifting here. It shapes the finish and drags it deep. Around one-third from crushed grapes with stems. Drinkable on release, but best from 2024.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

94. Steeped red currant, plum and raspberry fruit splays out, while light lavender, black tea and singed juniper accents fill in. A juniper laces up the finish, lending definition while the fruit pumps through. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,700 cases imported.

VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(93-95). Coming from the La Crau lieu-dit, VT’s 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau looks to be another excellent vintage. The aromas are floral and fresh, suggesting roses, tea, raspberries and orange zest. The palate is full-bodied but silky and fine, with delicate spice shadings on the finish creating a particularly elegant impression.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

93-95. The 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another elegant, floral example from this vintage. Black raspberries, red currants, peppery garrigue, tons of minerality, and a seaweed note that I always find in this cuvée gives way to a rich, medium to full-bodied, balanced, structured wine that has everything in the right places. With good acidity, ripe, present tannin, and plenty of length, it will need 3-5 years of cellaring and keep for 15-20 years.

LE REVUE DE VIN DE FRANCE – NOV 2019 – LA PASSION DU FRUIT, POUR LE RHÔNE MÉRIDIONAL – OLIVIER POUSSIER

Belle définition de fruit, pulpeux et précis. Des notes de fruit macérés, d’épices, un boisé subtil : la bouche se montre cossue, avec une trame concentrée en finesse, des saveurs de noyaux, de maquis. Le vin possède une belle sève. Il traversera les années.

CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE – SEPT/OCT 2019 – JEAN-LUC BARDE

C’est un balcon de galets roulés aveuglants qui regarde le Ventoux, les Dentelles. L’été la chaleau fait trembler l’air et les silhouettes. Pourtant, grâce au vent et aux hommes, pas une once de lourdeur, un éclat pourpre, la noble sucrosité et les épices délicates illuminent le palais, les Brunier maîtrisent leur «climat».

SOMMELIERS INTERNATIONAL – #165 – AUTOMNE 2019 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016

CE QU’EN PENSENT LES SOMMELIER

La cuvée Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 est constituée de 65% de Grenache noir, 15% de Mourvèdre, 15% de Syrah et 5% de Cinsault et de Clairette. Cette cuvée, produite à 200 000 exemplaires, a subi un élevage de 20-22 mois en foudres de chêne français de 60 hectolitres, puis mise en bouteilles sans collage ni filtration.

Robe: grenat intense aux reflets légèrement violacés.

Nez: complexe et élégant. Il s’ouvre sur une palette aromatique exceptionnelle, de fruits rouges et noirs, de garrigue, de réglisse et de poivre.

Bouche: onctueuse, ample, volumineuse. On retrouve les notes de fruits rouges, soutenues par des tannins fins et délicats. Finale longue et délicieuse.

Accord: un carré d’agneau rôti aux herbes de maquis.

Commentaire: un flacon mythique.

VINOUS – DEC 2019 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

95. Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and suave, harmonious tannins.

Drink 2024-2034

KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT – MARCH 2019 NEWSLETTER – CHRIS SANTINI

Daniel Brunier was absolutely beside himself with anticipation last month when the subject of the 2016 Vieux Télégraphe vintage came up. “I would never use this word lightly, but 2016 is the absolute best vintage I’ve ever seen here since 1978… I loved the 2010, the 2007, there were others which gave great emotion, but 2016…” and with that he just nodded his head in disbelief. This was at a casual, home-cooked, off-the-record dinner, not at a trade or promotional event. “This vintage is so… vibrant. The rusticity of our La Crau vineyards, of the old Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is back”.
Intrigued, we went to the cellars the next day to taste. We tasted out of the casks, and indeed what was in the glass was unlike no other Châteauneuf I’ve ever experienced. The juice was luminous and bright, clearly alive and kicking. The taste was salty and spicy, herbal and airy…hardly what one would expect from this neck of the woods, yet a profile for which I believe all great southern wines can strive for, and perhaps once did strive for a few generations ago.
Four generations of Bruniers have been farming the rock covered La Crau plateau since 1891. The steady family stewardship of the land, coupled with one of the most singular terroirs of the world (the rock covered plateau where these vines grow is at points four meters deep with rock before you hit a grain of soil), along with ideal growing conditions and a winemaking approach of zero extraction, gives you…2016 Vieux Télégraphe.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – NOV. 4, 2018

Vieux Télégraphe ambassadeur de la Vallée du Rhône dans le dernier top100 de James Suckling en 72ème place.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AUG. 29, 2018 – JAMES SUCKLING

98. Impressive, Complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink of hold.

WINE ADVOCATE – #238 – JOE CZERWINSKI

96. Undoubtedly one of the top vintages of this wine, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features classy notes of crushed stones and black tea to go along with ripe raspberries and black cherries. Full-bodied yet silky, there’s more power and richness in La Crau than in Piedlong, yet there’s commensurate elegance and finesse. The wine grows in intensity on the finish without ever seeming heavy or overripe, instead offering hints of tea and licorice.

JEBDUNNUCK.COM – AUG. 28, 2018

97. Bottled just last week, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers a classic, gorgeous bouquet of black raspberries, currants, violets, salty minerality, nori (seaweed wrapper) and licorice. Full-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant, with fine tannin, and a huge finish, this is classic Vieux Télégraphe all the way that has the balance to drink now.

DECANTER – Tasted by Matt WALLS (at En Primeur tastings, Rhône) 93

Lifted raspberry, raspberry leaf, strawberry and violet, with some herbal hints of sage. It has that strawberry character so distinctive of Vieux Telegraphe. It has juicy, sweet fruit, very fine tannins ans raspberry acidity. The alcohol is fairly high, but it’s otherwise well balanced.

Drinkin window 2018-2028

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

(94-96). In contrast to the Piedlong, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is a darker, richer wine. Yes, there are ripe cherries but also cola, blueberries and spice. Full-bodied and rich, it should easily outdistance the 2015.

Daniel Brunier said that all of the estate’s 2016 reds are 15.5% alcohol or more, yet I didn’t find excessive heat in any of them—a testament to the richness of the wines and the balance achieved in this vintage. With similar growing seasons and yields between 2015 and 2016, Brunier says, « I don’t know where comes the differences. » The family’s joint venture with American importer Kermit Lynch, Domaine Les Pallières, is also worth a strong look.

WINESPECTATOR.COM – AUTOMNE 2017 – J. MOLESWORTH

95. This has a lovely, perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes all mixed together, carried by silky but ample structure before ending with a long, mineral- and shiso leaf-infused finish. Finely beaded acidity lets everything hang wonderfully. This should expand and cruise in the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035. 13,500 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT. 31, 2017 – No 233 – JOE CZERWINSKI

94. The flagship wine, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties. It features delicate floral scents and ample cherry and licorice aromas. Somehow, it manages to be full-bodied and almost creamy in texture but without much weight, then it ends powerfully, with a flourish of rich Mexican chocolate on the long, silky finish. It should drink well for up to 20 years.

WINE SPECTATOR – SEPT. 13, 2017 – VOL 13, No 36 – J.MOLESWORTH

95. This has a loverly perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes, with finely beaded acidity and silky but ample structure. Long, mineral – and shiso leaf – infused finish.

VINOUS – DEC. 2016 – JOSH RAYNOLDS

Brilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building tannins adding shape and grip. I really like the blend of structure and fruit here. (92-94) pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – AOUT 2017 – JAMES SUCKLING

A wine with playful, attractive character. An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive. This will live super long. Try after 2020. 96 pts

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER – AOUT 2017 – JEFF LEVE

Silky, ripe, sweet and fresh, the wine offers a classic, elegant profile of Grenache, with a focus on its ripe, sweet, cherry core of fruit. Soft polished, long, fresh and pure, the wine is not about power. Instead, what you have is an elegant, fresh sweet expression of fruit. Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault. 94 Pts

KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT – MARCH 2017 OFFER

Vieux Télégraphe’s greatest strength is undoubtedly its consistency. I am not referring to the consistency resulting from now four generations of Bruniers who know the plateau of La Crau stone for stone, as crucial as this is. Rather, I am alluding to the timeless power of this terroir, which allows for wines of noble character, profound complexity, and unrivaled typicity year in and year out. There is no question that vintage variation exists at Vieux Télégraphe – one need only taste two diametrically opposed vintages side by side, such as 2007 and 2008, to observe this phenomenon. Yet even in 2003, an infamous year in which climatic extremes all but erased the nuances of terroir across France’s wine regions, V.T. remains V.T. – ripe, no doubt, but defined more by stone than by fruit. And such is how La Crau asserts itself : the stones are omnipresent, supplying a firm spine to the wine, a salivating mineral aspect that refreshes regardless of the vintage’s overall balance.

Vigneron Daniel Brunier describes 2015 as “a superb vintage that once again proves that nothing great can be done hurriedly.” His statement applies to the growing season, which necessitated late rains to restore balance to the drought-afflicted grapes, as well as to the harvest, an exercise in patience and restraint, and finally to the vinification, in which extended macerations yielded deep tannic structures that reached a seamless integration during the wine’s élevage.

On other words, 2015 showcases La Crau in all its glory. From its pure and explosive young fruit to the wine’s momentous structure, culminating in its trademark stoniness, this is V.T. as we love it and as we have always known it.

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

(92 – 94). The 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape is a classic wine from this team that shows the elegance and purity that’s the hallmark of the estate. Crushed flowers, lots of salty minerality, black raspberries and spice flow to a medium to full-bodied, layered Châteauneuf du Pape that needs 4-5 years of cellaring and will drink nicely over the following 10-15 years

WINE ADVOCATE – #227 – OCT. 31, 2016 – JEB DUNNUCK

91. The flagship 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape is medium-bodied, silky and elegant, with pretty notes of raspberries, crushed rocks, ground herbs and sappy flowers. It plays in the medium-bodied style of the vintage, yet has terrific elegance, as well as a tight, energetic style, fine tannin and impeccable balance. Drink it anytime over the coming decade or so.

VINEOUS – AVRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

(91-93) : Vivid ruby. Intense red and dark berry aromas are complemented by peppery spice, garrigue and floral pastille notes. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering concentrated, vivacious black raspberry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors. Supple, harmonious tannins build steadily on the very long, seamless finish, which leaves behind lavender and juicy dark berry notes.

INTERNATIONAL WINE REPORT – JOE D’ANGELO

92. The 2013 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is all about elegance. However today, this is still extremely youthful, offering characteristics which are somewhat Burgundian, with bright aromas of fresh black and red raspberries woven together with dried florals and spices along with wet stones and hints of orange zest. This wine is beautifully made, demonstrating wonderful overall balance and finesse with a gorgeous fine, silky texture through the finish. The 2013 will demand some additional bottle age, but I expect it to continue to develop and change dramatically over the next decade

VINEOUS – AVRIL 2016 – JOSH REYNOLDS

92 – 79$ : Limpid ruby. A highly expressive bouquet evokes ripe red berries, potpourri and peppery spices, and a smoky mineral nuance gains strength as the wine opens up. Offers concentrated raspberry liqueur and spicecake flavors and deeper licorice and bitter chocolate flavors sharpened and given spine by juicy acidity. Effortlessly plays richness off elegance and finishes sweet, spicy and impressively long, with velvety tannins lending shape and grip.

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

(91-93). It offers classic rolled-stone-like minerality, spice, licorice and dark fruits to go with medium-bodied richness and depth, integrated acidity and fine tannin. This will be a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape that will evolve nicely for 10-15 years.

RVF – H.S. NOV 2014 – R.PETRONIO

18/20. C\’est la cuvée tradition du domaine mais uniquement produite sur le terroir de La Crau. Il présente un nez intense et sauvage. Il y a un sentiment de puissance (25% de mourvèdre) et d\’énergie dans ce vin. Derrière cette force, transparaît une sève au cractère solaire typique de La Crau. Il est tempéré par le mode de vinification en grappes entières et son élevage en foudres. Cela confère une harmonie cohérente à cet assemblage de grenache, syrah et mourvèdre. Une belle réussite. Ouvrir dans 20 ans.

WINE SPECTATOR – 15 NOV 2014 – J.MOLESWORTH

94. Rock-solid, with a hefty core of fig, blackberry and black cherry fruit, wrapped in chestnut and tobacco leaf notes and carrying through a lavender- and tar-framed finish. Dense and grippy, showing a slightly old-school shading. Should cellar well. Best from 2016 through 2030
WS 30 nov 2014 : cité dans le Top 2012 (29 vins) des Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouges

WINE ADVOCATE – #215 – 30 OCT 2014 – JEB DUNNUCK

93. The flagship 2012 is a classically structured, elegant effort that will evolve gracefully on its balance and harmony. Showing the telltale seaweed, currants, olive, licorice and ample minerality so common in this cuvee, it’s medium it’s full-bodied, lightly textured and focused on the palate, with plenty of tannin. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will have 15-20 years of longevity

GUIDE RVF 2015 – 18

Le domaine produit sur le terroir La Crau une couvée importante et unique d\\\’une grande régularité. Le 2012 possède cette empreinte solaire de la Crau dans sa chair et ses parfums, mais son raffinement l\’emporte.

RVF – OCT 2014 – dossier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012*

Vieux Télégraphe 2012 sort dans le top 10 sur 220 Châteauneuf-du-Pape dégustés avec la note de 18/20 et le commentaire suivant :
il s\’agit de la cuvée tradition du domaine mais elle est produite uniquement à partir de raisins nés sur le terroir de La Crau. C\’est pourquoi nous avons choisi de la présenter ici. Nez de fruit très mûr et de végétal noble, intense et sauvage. Ce vin développe une sensation de puissance (15% de mourvèdre) et d\’énergie. Derrière cette force transparaît une sève teintée du caractère tempéré par le mode de vinification en grappes entières et un élevage en foudres. L\’élevage confère une harmonie cohérente à cet assemblage de grenache / syrah / mourvèdre.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Bright ruby. Intense raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by hints of lavender, spicecake and blood orange. Juicy and fruit-driven, with palatecoating flavors of sweet, spice-tinged red fruits and candied flowers. Quite suave and seamless, boasting striking purity to its red fruit- and mineral-driven finish. Those who decry the ripeness and heady character of most Chateauneufs owe it to themselves to try this wine. 92-94

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

The top wine of the estate, the 2012 Vieux Telegraphe (which is always a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes, from 65-year-old vines) is a classic example of the cuvee and possesses gorgeous aromatics (kirsch, garrigue, big minerality and background meatiness), medium to full-bodied richness and a firm, tannic spine. As is common, it will require a handful of years in the cellar to come around and have 15 years of longevity. Drink 2016-2027. (93-95 pts)

WINEALIGN.COM – 24 OCT 2014 – JOHN SZABO

93. From the difficult 2011 vintage, Vieux Télégraphe is fine success i’d say, with massive structure and ultra-ripe and concentrated black berry fruit. This is still yers away from prime enjoyment, but within 4-6 years this should make for a compelling bottle, one of the better wines from the vintage. One would have to chalk up its character to Vieux Télégraphe’s old vines and exceptional terroir, able to handle heat stress, drought and generally erratic weather better that most.

WINEALIGN.COM – 24 OCT 2014 – JOHN SZABO

93. This is a very even, balanced and complex Châteauneuf. Not profound or texturally massive (as is the case with 2011s), but it is harmonious and focused and very complex. It was a lighter path to maturity. Lifted precise aromas of strawberry-cherry jam, fresh sage, woodsy and peppery aromas mingle ever so nicely. It’s medium-full, with a sense of freshness and poise. The length is excellent to outstanding. Evolving faily quickly, so enjoy over the next five years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #172 – JAN/FEB 2014 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. The spicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In a graceful, almost weightless style, with zero excess fat but noteworthy flavor intensity. I underestimated this wine last year. 93

WINE ADVOCATE – #209 – 31 OCT 2013 – JEB DUNNUCK

Forward and up-front, especially by this cuvee-s standards, the 2011 Vieux Telegraphe (65% Grenache from 70-year-old vines, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the balance other permitted varieties) exhibits perfumed aromas of herbs de Provence, seaweed wrapper, garrigue and olive to go with plenty of sweet kirsch and berry fruit. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant, with fine tannin, it can be consumed now (with a decant) or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025. 92 pts

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS

Deep ruby. Expressive, powerful aromas of blackberry and cherry are brightened by suave floral and spice notes. Lush and creamy, with sappy dark berry flavors, silky tannins and a gentle lift of acidity. Picks up seductive Asian spice notes with air, finishing sweet and very long. 90-92

RVF– JUIN 2012 –SPECIAL MILLESIME 2012

Cité dans ‘les grandes réussites’ de Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Parfums de fruit très mûr et de réglisse ; bouche puissante et veloutée, à la finale bien construite;

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 13 – #166 – JOSH REYNOLDS

($78) Vivid ruby. Intense red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by notes of anise, allspice and minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic lavender pastille quality. Becomes livelier and spicier with air and finishes with supple tannins, outstanding clarity and noteworthy persistence. 94

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – SEPT 26, 2012

96 pts – Coated with unctuous linzer torte, warm plum sauce and pure cassis fruit flavors, while notes of maduro tobacco, mint, green fig and toasted anise flitter throughout. This is lush and dense, but well-harnessed through the finish, with a mouthwatering roasted apple wood note and lingering fresh acidity. Best from 2014 through 2030

NEW YORK TIMES ONLINE – JULY 20, 2012 –

Not entirely traditional, but certainly not modern, either. Tannic, but mouthwatering and fresh. Cinnamon and other spices. Balanced and complex. (Eric Pfanner)

—

A few years ago I wrote about the grandest bottle of red wine it has been my pleasure to experience. At table with Aubert and Pamela de Villaine in Bouzeron, Aubert pulled out from his cellar a 1961 Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Tasting it was a voyage not unlike listening to Pablo Casals playing the Sarabande from Bach’s Cello Suite #2, a voyage serpentine, full of unexpected turns, nooks and crannies, soul-searching, and revelations. The wine, like the music, was deep, profound, ever-changing, truly moving. It was a singular experience, and I was reminded of it when I tasted the 2010 Vieux Télégraphe for the first time last summer with the gifted Brunier brothers.Once again, I had that sensation of a voyage through an aesthetic landscape with surprising twists and turns that covers a great distance before the aftertaste subsides. This classic opens with a voluptuous aroma that gives and gives—it is striking because of its charm and floral notes. How many Châteauneufs can boast of those two traits? By the time your voyage ends, however, you are in a completely different place—deep in the heart of Vieux Télégraphe territory—which is to say big gorgeous tannins and a glorious stoniness. This vintage can compare with any of the domaine’s past vintages including 1978 and 1983. All good things must end, they say, but this stunning wine will be good for decades.

WINE ADVOCATE – (91-94) pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

Slightly denser than the 2009 with a deep ruby/plum/purple color followed by notes of crushed Provençal herbs, framboise, kirsh, licorice, pepper and nori. Full-bodied with good acidity and a distinct, earthy / underbrush character, it should drink nicely for at least two decades given the longevity of most top vintages of this wine.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

93-95. Bright ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and lavender, with notes of white pepper and anise adding complexity. Very fresh and focused on entry, then deeper and more brawny in the middle, offering sappy cherry and red fruit preserve flavors. This spicy finish displays superb persistence, very good clarity and intense florality.

WINEALIGN.COM (ONTARIO) – JOHN SZABO

95+. The 2007 Vieux Télégraphe is a wine of incredible concentration and length; this will be a wine for the ages. It\’s dense, brooding, a little closed on the nose for the moment, but hints at scorched earth, savoury and sweet baking spice and ultra ripe kirsch, plum brandy, dried herbs and mineral aromas. The palate is full, very full, mouth-filling, dense and richly concentrated, with abundant tannins that are fully coated by massive fruit extract. Value rating : ***

LE DEVOIR – 8 FEV 2013 – JEAN AUBRY

Ce domaine poursuit dans le style où la puissance côtoie l’élégance, mais aussi avec ce sentiment d’urgence « terrienne » où fruit et terroir sont liés depuis un bon moment déjà. La Patine est capiteuse, la texture finement « serrante » en milieu de bouche, le tanin palpable, riche, presque gras. Sérieux. 4 étoiles/5.

GOURMET TRAVELLER (AUSTRALIE) – JUIN 2012 – ANDREW JEFFORD

2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, A$145 There’s something almost Burgundian about Vieux Télégraphe, with its clear, light colours; its refined scents of bay leaf and tobacco; and its unforbidding, glycerous flavours, full of faintly saline stoniness, licorice refinement, and with a gentle chocolaty sheen to the quiet, calm fruits. It’s almost as if you can taste the vast, bright sky, poised up above the boulder-strewn plateau of Crau, in the wine’s extensive openness of flavour: a serene summary of place.

GOURMETTRAVELLER – JUNE 2012 – NICK STOCK

(A$145) is a grand wine that still fits in the relatively reserved and savoury mode that defines this when young. The fruit is precisely ripe, nicely balanced with an abundance of sweet eastern spices and gentle earthy tones, red and darker reddish fruits evident too. The palate is dense yet supple, showing good weight, fleshy through the middle palate and impeccable poise. Superb length and balance, this boasts essence-like concentration. Again, one to leave alone for some time.

WINE SPECTATOR 31 OCT 2011 – JM – 94 points

This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted appel wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully.

THE RHONE REPORT – JEB DUNNUCK – ISSUE # 9 – 25 SEPT 2011 – 94 pts

The 2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a beauty. A blend of 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the rest an assortment of varieties, all from La Crau, it exhibits a traditional, muscular bouquet of both red and black fruits, white pepper, rolled stone, iron, and spice cabinet-like characteristics. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, structured wine that has a firm, focused feel, solid concentration, and an edgy, long finish. Overall, this is an old school, classically styled wine that’s meant for aging; it will need time to be approachable. I would give bottles 5-7 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking them over the following 10-15 years.

WINE ADVOCATE – 92 pts – 31 OCT 2011 – #197

This classic offering had been bottled before my visit, so it was probably tighter than it will be in 6-12 months. Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seeweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, fullbodied mouthfeel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR –JAN/FEB 12 – JOSH REYNOLDS

93. Bright ruby. Intense red fruit and potpourri aromas show excellent precision and a suave, spicy character. Licorice and lavender nuances add complexity to juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with the wine putting on weight in the glass. Finishes taut and youthfully tangy, with echoing licorice and spice notes

WINE ADVOCATE – (91-94) pts – 31 OCT 2010 – #191

A deep ruby/plum color is followed by a big, sweet nose of boysenberries, raspberries, licorice, nori seaweed wrap, black currants and earth. Fullbodied, with beautiful texture, purity, depth and power, the 2009 is a notch behind the extraordinary 2007, but it is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. It should drink well for 20 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 91-93 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011

Vivid ruby. Explosive raspberry and blackberry aromas,sustained by hints of star anise and rose; showing excellent clarity and energy. Silky in texture and alluringly sweet, with palate-coating red and dark berry flavors and no rough edges. Finishes with impressive persistence and lingering sweetness, repeating the dark berry note. I really like this wine’sseamless texture.

VINUM – SEPT 2010 – 15.5/20

Hübsche Würze, klassich, angenehm fruchtig auch; guter Gastronomiewein.

WINE ADVOCATE – 89 pts – 31 OCT 2010 – #191

The Brunier have turned out a very fine 2008 (what they call a ‘vintage of freshness’). This classic effort possesses more stuffing than most of its peers. It reveals this estate’s tell-tale notesof earthy garrigue, herbs, licorice and seaweed, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, soft tannins and more depth than many 2008s. Nevertheless, it will not be a long-ager, so readers are encouraged to drink it over the next 5-7 years.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – 90 pts – MARCH / APRIL 2011

Bright ruby. Lively, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, anise,earth and spices, augmented by hints of lavender and resin. Energetic, focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show good definition and pick up minerality with air. Taut on the back end, finishing with solid grip and very good, tangy persistence. I like this wine’s vivacity and balance.

WINE SPECTATOR – 92 pts – 31 JAN 2011

Still tight, with the core of cherry and red currant fruit held in check by a mix of lightly firm sandalwood, spice, licorice root and warm stone flavors. Mulled fig and cocoa notes check in on the grippy finish. A rare backward style 2008 that will need some cellaring to round into form. Best from 2013 through 2020

WINE ADVOCATE #191 – 89 – $65

The Brunier brothers have turned out a very fine 2008 châteauneuf-du-Pape (what they call a vintage of freshness). This classic effort possesses more stuffing than most of its peers. It reveals this estate’s tell-tale notes of earthy garrigue, herbs, licorice and seaweed, a medium to full-bodies mouthfeel, soft tannins and more depth than many 2008s.

DECANTER – APRIL 2010

16.5 – **** – Sweet, mild Grenache fruit and a floral aire. Typical plum flavours and fine texture. A few moments of late tannin. length is adequate, but it is less open than many 2008s.

GAULT MILLAU – FEV-MARS 2010

16.5 – Une sincérité et une probité humaines qui s’expriment également à travers les vins. Les recettes sont simples : une vision à long terme solide, basée sur des choix que l’expérience a validés ; mais également une adaptation à chaque millésime. Le dernier petit secret : pas de faux-semblant. Un vin austère, plus profond que puissant avec , en filigrane, des notes de curry, de prune, d’anis, d’épices douces. Un vin mentholé, droit et « classique » dans le plus beau sens du terme. S’allongeant sur la salinité.

JANCIS ROBINSON NOTES – NOV 2009

17- Drink 2011-14
Mealy and substantial and interesting. Real depth to this with structure and intensity. Long (a rarity in 2008). Obviously this has been made with a great deal of ambition. This has a beginning, middle and end.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

Ruby-red. The nose offers deeper and smokier aromas than that of the Telegramme, with cherry and herb qualities and a note of anise. Smooth, sappy raspberry and cherry flavors pick up a sexy floral quality with air. Attractively sweet and open-knit, this should be drinkable soon after release. 88-90

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating (89-91) – not yet released – Production for the grand vin in 2008 was down by 20-25%, and the 2008 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape appears to be a soft, richly fruity wine revealing lots of raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of nori (the seaweed wrapper found in sushi restaurants), roasted Provencal herbs, and garrigue, This lovely front end-Ioaded effort will be unusually precocious, so Tt should be drinkable upon release, and will evolve for 7-10 years.

SOMMELIER INTERNATIONAL – AOÛT 2010

Nez : plaisant, une belle complexité sur des arômes de petits fruits noirs et rouges très mûrs et de fleurs (pivoine, violette), s’ouvrant à l’aération vers des touches de cerise confite et de réglisse.
Bouche : très aromatique, structurée et puissante. Bien équilibrée. Finale chaleureuse sur des tanins soyeux.
Accord mets et vins : un lapin aux épices. Commentaires : un vin profond et harmonieux

www.bordeauxwineenthusiasts.com

This was tied for wine of the Thanksgiving weekend that included, among other great wines, the following: 1995 Cos d\’Estournel, 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste, 1998 La Mission Haut Brion, 2000 Beaucastel, 2001 Phelps Insignia, 2007 Les Cailloux, and some twenty other spectacular wines. The co-winner was a dazzling 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte, which is really rounding into form. The Vieux Telegraphe was stunning on the nose, stunning on the palate. It was popped and poured and was the immediate, hands-down, no-question-about-it favorite among the dozen or so who drank it. The 1998 Figeac was also a chocolate right bank beauty.

LES MEILLEURS VIN DE FRANCE 2011

8ème rang – […] Le bouquet dégage immédiatement d’étonnantes et très attachantes exhalaisons de brise marine, légèrement iodées et salées. Sur cette trame, repose un velours de confiture de cerises, de pruneau et de poivre noir. Puis l’algue afflue, accompagnée de jolis baigneurs : cassis, bois de réglisse et tabac blond. L’attaque confirme la richesse que le nez avait déjà révélée. Les tannins sont mûrs, corsés, extrêmement denses. Ils libèrent de la pâte de coing et de cassis, ainsi que de la groseille à maquereau. En rétro-olfaction s’imposent des herbes de Provence et du paprika. La finale est époustouflante, elle touche presque la queue de pan en atteignant 50 caudalies, pendant lesquelles se joue une parfait harmonie d’acide, d’alcool, de figue, de cerise, de poivre blanc, de piment doux et de safran. Dans cette bouteille, la richesse de Crésus, l’esprit de la commune, du Front populaire et des premiers congés payés, s’embrassent jusqu’à l’extase.

INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

($70) Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property’s usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine’s virility. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA) 93

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

15/20. Le vin est souple et charnu, sur les fruits à noyau, de longueur correcte mais sans pour autant posséder le volume et la profondeur des plus grandes réussites de la propriété.

WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER

rating 96 – The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25 years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier.

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (19)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-35
Red cherry, wax and nut nose – a future beauty. Has more structure than most 2007s,fresh and balanced. Red fruit palate and huge tannins.

WINE ADVOCATE –N°179

30 OCT 2008 – ROBERT PARKER
(94-96 ) – should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45 seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would walt until 2012 before pullung a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years.

WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – JAMES MOLESWORTH

95 POINTS – $66 – 4100 cs imported Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone-filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2030.—J.M.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – Josh Reynolds

90-93 – Saturated ruby. Youthfully brooding nose displays dark berries, tobacco and licorice, plus an undercurrent of smoky minerals. More powerful than what I expect from this estate, boasting deep, chewy cassis and bitter cherry flavors and a late note of bitter chocolate. Impressive for its richness and size, but will it gain the finesse that I associate with this domain?

DECANTER – MAY 2009 – RHONE VALLEY TOP 2007 – J. Livingstone

***** (19) – Full bouquet, promises to be a beauty. The palate is fresh and balanced, with a mark of tanin following on from a willing bout of red fruits. Drink 2009-2034

TOP 100 2009 – WINE SPECTATOR – 30 DEC 2009

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2007 GOT THE 3RD RANK

When Châteauneuf-du-Pape became France’s frist AOC in 1936, Vieux Télégraphe had already been in operation for nearly 40 years. Today, brothers Daniel and Frédéric Brunier farm the domaine’s 173 acres located in the appellation’s famed La Crau sector. The wine is a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% of each Syrah and Mourvèdre and a dash of Cinsault, Clairette and others, all sourced from vines averaging 60 years of age. 17000cs made.

RVF – NOV 2009

Toujours imposant, le Vieux Télégraphe 2006 est très épicé et fruité. Il évolue sur une note de cacao, de ronce, de fruit noir, de réglisse et de ciste. La bouche est marqué par un fruit doux et frais, très croquant. La fraîcheur du millésime épouse à merveille la chaleur de ce terroir de la Crau. Superbe ! 18/20

GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010

15/20. Belle robe profonde, nez de confiture de mûre, attaque généreuse, tanins solides. Vin charnu, assez ferme en finale pour le moment.

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (17.5)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £37.60-37
(Tasted in Nov. 2007)
Palate more expressive than nose: grilled pistachio and smoky red frult. Palate of red berry and plum. Evident tannins. 2012-2022

AUTOUR DE BACCUS – PATRICK LEBAX

Cela commence presque comme une épreuve de philo : « l’homme est-il une composante du terroir ? » S’en suit un long – et instructif – manifeste sur cette notion si française que bien des spécialistes ont tenté d’expliquer. Les plus curieux ont leur idée sur la question : ils définissent le terroir comme une trilogie : le sol, la climatologie et l’homme. Les autres s’en moquent, pourvu que le terroir soit bon, c’est tout ce qu’on lui demande le soir après une journée de dur labeur. Bref, qu’on y arrive ou qu’on n’y arrive pas, qu’importe. Le terroir c’est ce truc indéfinissable qui fait que le vin est bon. Bien à l’endroit où il prend vie, avec juste ce qu’il faut de soleil et de pluie, de taille et de soins, bien élevé, grâce à la main du vigneron… Ici, le vin répond à l’ensemble de ce petit cahier des charges. Le sol : le plateau caillouteux de la Crau, lieu-dit bien connu de l’appellation Châteauneuf du pape, laisse les vieilles vignes (60 ans en moyenne) s’épanouir dans un sol où les « molasses du Miocène » font de la place à l’argile. La météo ? Une pluviométrie hivernale moyenne (200 mm) suffit à recharger ce type de profil qui ne subit que peu de déperdition. Le soleil fait le reste. Quant à l’homme, les hommes, Daniel et Frédéric Brunier, ils mettent en musique, comme on dit, à l’aide de plusieurs cépages (grenache noir 65%, mourvèdre 15%, syrah 15%, cinsault, Clairette et autres 5%). Châteauneuf est en effet une appellation autorisée à utiliser 13 cépages, un record national. Bref, vous l’avez compris, ce vieux télégraphe est un vin de terroir. Puissant et aromatique, il peut patienter un quart de siècle au moins avant de laisser ses tanins s’arrondir. Certains l’aiment plus jeune… c’est toujours une question de goût.

IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – Josh Reynolds

92 – ($73) Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and very long. The juice that goes into this cuvee comes from vines that are at least 50 years of age, with the blend featuring 65% grenache, 15% each of syrah and mourvedre, and 5% cinsault and « divers”.

TOP 100 2009 – WINE SPECTATOR – 30 DEC 2008

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2005 GOT THE 5TH RANK (95 pts)

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (20/20)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-35
Solid, broad, warm nose. Clear. warm texture and sweetness, pleasingly fresh aftertaste. Great balance and a lovely palate. 2009-2036

—

En 2005, la nature fut d’une grande générosité pour les vignerons du sud de la Vallée du Rhône ; à châteauneuf-du-Pape, nous avons eu notre part du cadeau ; les Vieux Télégraphe rouge sont de toute beauté : couleur rubis intense, profond et brillant. Le nez est complexe, minéral, on sent presque le « cailloux », ce célèbre galet roulé qui recouvre entièrement le plateau de la Crau. La bouche est à la fois onctueuse, équilibrée et sévère ; c’est sérieux, complet, riche mais pas entêtant. La structure tannique est bien intégrée malgré la jeunesse du vin, elle lui confère son potentiel de vieillissement dont il est difficile aujourd’hui de fixer la limite.

WINE SPECTATOR BLOG – 94 pts- Nov 15, 2011

Textbook, with singed cedar and tobacco leaf, lavender and bay notes weaving through flavors of date nut bread, dried currant and mulled cherry fruit. All of this is harnessed by pebbly tannins that leave a juicy mouthwatering feel on the finish. A domaine that hasn’t missed a beat in quite some time. 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now through 2021. 15,000 cases made. Release price: $48 | Current price: $61

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – **** (18)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-40
Subdued, herb nose. Grenache fruit at the helm, given extra weight and width by the other varieties. Good, fresh balance, profound wine. 2009-2035.

www.paperblog.fr – par Altervino

Le temps a métamorphosé ce vin. Un monde le sépare du millésime 2007. Ici le nez fait frissonner avec ses notes de tabac, de cuir et animales. La bouche est tout en velours et délicatesse. L’alcool et l’élevage se sont parfaitement intégrés. Un grand vin sudiste dans toute sa splendeur. Comme quoi il faut savoir attendre les vins « plus plus ». Très bien. Conclusion : il n\’y a pas de grands vins qui ne s’inscrivent pas dans le temps.

WINE ADVOCATE #189 – JUNE 30, 2010

95. Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Télégraphe that was produced. it has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. it has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this fullbodied, powerfull wine. it possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in ters of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo !

RVF – NOV 2009

Ce millésime commence à s’assagir, on est sur le fruit confit avec une note de prune et de cuir. Ce millésime solaire a donné naissance à un fruit imposant. Le temps doit encore œuvrer pour livrer toutes les nuances de ce beau terroir. 17.5 / 20

—

Good full medium red. Complex nose melds raspberry, redcurrant, humus, smoke, leather, tobacco, minerals, spices and fresh herbs. Sweet and supple but with bright acids and an exotic suggestion of white fruits keeping the mid-palate fresh. Finishes with a firm dusting of tannins. This should continue to evolve for at least another decade. (I shold note that this third bottle was a charm, as my first two, though seemingly firm and youth full as well, showed a slightly musty, fungal quality that gave the finish a dry edge.)

WINE SPECTATOR online – 30 APR; 2009

The Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 1998 comes from a big, muscular vintage that is just now starting to hit its stride. This wine, typically rugged when young, has slowly but surely evolved into a mouthfilling wine loaded with black currant, bacon fat, tar and grilled herb notes. There’s still plenty of grip for additional aging, though the wine has softened enough to now be approachable. I gave it 94 points, non-blind, which is consistent with the review I gave it when I did a retrospective tasting of 1998 Châteauneufs back in 2007.

[…]

Et enfin la bombe, le 1998. C’est ce dernier, qui commence seulement à se dévoiler, nécessitant un passage en carafe d’au moins une heure pour se livrer totalement, que nous avons retenu. Un vin sauvage mais aussi très raffiné qui appelle le gibier. Depuis sa naissance, ce millésime du domaine du Vieux Télégraphe s’impose comme l’une des principales réussites de la propriété. Il confirme aujourd’hui son énorme potentiel et sa grande classe. Peu évolué en couleur, il affiche un nez captivant et profond de fruits frais, d’herbes de Provence, de réglisse et une fine touche légèrement iodée. La bouche est d’une opulence magnifique, juteuse et équilibrée, avec des tanins qui commencent à s’arrondir. Puissant et long, il se révèle plus complexe encore après une longue aération.

RFV – MAI 2008 – LAURIE MATHESON

Sur le papier, il s’agit en effet d’un millésime moyen. La période de floraison avait été très chahutée par le climat. Basses températures et mistral ont fait couler les grenaches. La vigne, ainsi dépouillée d’une grande partie de ses fruits, avait compensé par la formation de « raisins seconds », dont le cycle de maturité est bien différent des raisins principaux. Dans cette situation délicate, nous avons attendu la maturité complète de ces raisins afin de récolter une quantité à peu près normale (27hl/ha). La dégustation confirme. La robe de ce vin est d’un rouge brique encore jeune. Après aération, le nez se met en place avec ses fines notes de tabac. En bouche, on ressent très bien la fraîcheur du millésime. Le Volume est moyen, la richesse n’est pas le signe de l’année mains l’équilibre est là. Le vin arrive à son terme, mais il est encore bien vivant. Les arômes sont très classiques – le réglisse du grenache est très doux -, dans cette phase d’arômes tertiaires où il n’y a plus d’excès. Ce n’est pas très complexe mais charmant. Une belle minéralité fait surface en finale et donne du relief à l’ensemble.

DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (19)

JOHN LIVINGSTONE
Sweet, red berry air. Meaty, red fruit palate, spiced, pebbly finish, very good balance, beautiful richness, seductive, changing, fantastic nose. 2OO9 -7021

LE NOUVEAU BETTANE + DESSEAUVE – GUIDE 2022

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE

Cette splendide propriété de Bédarrides, propriété de la famille Brunier, est l’un des crus majeurs de l’appellation. Elle dispose d’un vaste vignoble d’un seul tenant, entièrement situé sur le plateau de la Crau et produit des vins d’une qualité remarquable. Le rouge est l’un des plus complets de l’appellation, dans un style savamment mis au point par les Brunier, qui ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool, mais au contraire l’équilibre et le raffinement. Du clos-la-roquette, en passant par télégramme et piedlong, jusqu’au grand vin, tout est d’une grande précision aromatique et d’un équilibre magistral. Ici l’on préfère la finesse à la puissance.

98 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE 2019

96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, TÉLÉGRAMME 2019

Ce classique de l’appellation plaira par ses arômes de fruits rouges et noirs mûrs et par la profondeur de son corps. Ensemble satisfaisant, agréable et équilibre.

96 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, PIEDLONG 2019

Merveilleux de finesse et de fruité aérien, tout l’ensemble préente en plus ce caractère incroyablement digeste qui le place un peu à part dans notre dégustation. C’est superbe. Une bouteille ne suffit pas, il faut acheter des magnums.

EN MAGNUM – LE NOUVEAU 2021 – HORS SÉRIES #1 – DÉCEMBRE 2020

LES DOMAINES

4 / 5 ÉTOILES – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE

Cette splendide propriété de Bédarrides, propriété de la famille Brunier, est l’un des crus majeurs de l’appellation. Elle dispose d’un vaste vignoble d’un seul tenant, entièrement situé sur le plateau de la Crau et produit des vins d’une qualité remarquable. Le rouge est l’un des plus complets de l’appellations, dans un style savamment mis au point par les Brunier, qui ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool, mais au contraire l’équilibre et le raffinement. Pour cela on joue sur l’encépagement complexe et l’on recherche la juste maturité. Les vinifications sont rudimentaires mais terriblement précises. Du clos-la0roquette, en passant par télégramme et piedlong, jusqu’au grand vin, tout est d’une grande précision aromatique et d’un équilibre magistral. Ici l’on préfère la finesse à la puissance.

3 / 5 ÉTOILES – DOMAINE DE LA ROQUÈTE

Le domaine appartient à la famille Brunier (Vieux Télégraphe) mais il dispose de ses propres installations dans le village de Châteauneuf, et son vignoble est indépendant. De fait, il se situe dans la zone de la Roquette (sables et sous-sol argilo-calcaire), sur le plateau du Pied-Long (galets) et les sables de Pignan.

LES VINS

18,5 / 20 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, LA CRAU ROUGE 2017

Grande race. Vin esthète, aux tannins fins et infiniment longs. Bouche aux contours de taffetas. Superge d’élégance.

17 / 20 – PIEDLONG 2017

Nez floral, délicat, de petits fruits rouges. Cerise rouge. Attaque très fine, ample, tannins fermes d’allonge moyenne. Joli vin dans un millésime solaire qui a gardé son éclat.

16 / 20 – TÉLÉGRAMME 2017

Finesse évidente, bouche délicate de demi-corps. Le manque de puissance d’empêche pas l’élégance. Tannins de qualité.

15,5 / 20 – DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE, LA CRAU BLANC 2018

Étonnant de saveurs dans un corps léger et enlevé. La finale est remarquable de persistance et de précision. C’est beau.

DECANTER – PRODUCER PROFILE DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE PLUS 15 WINES TASTED – MATT WALLS – OCTOBER 9 2020

Fierce Independence

It was Henri Brunier who laid the first stone in 1891. He bought some land to the east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and gave it to his son, Hippolyte. ‘Why did he buy it? We don’t know,’ says Daniel. ‘It wasn’t even vines, it was woods.’

At this time, Châteauneuf was already internationally recognized for the quality of its wine, so even if clearing the land was hard work, deciding what to plant was less of a challenge. Hippolyte’s son Jules extended the domaine to 17ha and named it after a nearby stone tower that was used to transmit messages by semaphore.

The following generation, another Henri, enlarged the estate to 55ha before bequeathing it to current owners Daniel and Frédéric. Under their command, expansion has been rapid. They’ve grown their Châteauneuf holdings to 100ha, bought 20ha in and around Ventoux, acquired Domaine les Pallières in Gigondas with US importer Kermit Lynch, and created Massaya estate in Lebanon’s Beqaa Valley with partners Sami and Ramzi Ghosn.

Family members each have their own area of responsibility. Daniel’s duties are principally commercial, and his son, Edouard, 27, manages their three Rhône wineries. Frédéric and his son Nicolas, 30, concentrate more on the vineyards, and Frédéric’s daughter Manon works in the offices. When it comes to winemaking, however, everyone is involved. ‘The goal is that you don’t know who made it,’ says Daniel.

The use of winemaking consultants has become increasingly prevalent in Châteauneuf-du-Pape over the past few decades, but Daniel stresses that there is no outside influence over the winemaking at Vieux Télégraphe. Theirs is a fiercely independent estate. ‘It’s important to be ourselves,’ says Daniel, ‘and not to try to copy others.’

At a glance

Location: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, France

Winemakers: Daniel, Frédéric, Edouard, and Nicolas Brunier

Vineyard area: 56ha

Viticultural approach: Organic, not certified

For the Vieux Télégraphe rouge:

Grape varieties: 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah; remaining 5% comprised of Cinsault, Clairette and other local varieties

Average wine age: 60 years old

Average production: 200,000 bottles

For the Vieux Télégraphe blanc:

Grape varieties: 40% Clairette, 25% Grenache blanc, 25% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc

Average vine age: 45 years old

Average production: 20,000 bottles

Timeline

1891 Henri Brunier I bequeathes a parcel of land on La Crau to his son, Hippolyte Brunier

1915 Jules Brunier, son of Hippolyte, names the estate Vieux Télégraphe

1928 Original winery built on La Crau

1945 Henri Brunier II, son of Jules, joins the estate

1979 Construction of modern, gravity-fed winery

1980 Frédéric Brunier, son of Henri Brunier II, joins the estate

1981 Daniel Brunier, son of Henri Brunier II, joins the estate

1986 Purchase of Domaine la Roquète vineyards

1998 Purchase of Domaine les Pallières, Gigondas; creation of Massaya, Beqaa Valley, Lebanon

2002 No Vieux Télégraphe red made due to floods; first vintage of ‘Télégramme’

2011 Construction of current winery

2011 First vintage of ‘Piedlong’

2015 Nicolas Brunier, son of Frédéric, joins the estate

2016 Edouard Brunier, son of Daniel, joins the estate

2018 Manon Brunier, daughter of Frédéric, joins the estate

La Crau, La Crau, La Crau

When I ask which three things all wine lovers need to know about Vieux Télégraphe, Daniel’s answer is immediate: ‘La Crau, La Crau, La Crau!’ This plateau of galets roulés to the east of the village is one of the highest in the appellation, and it has long been considered one of the best sectors for making wine in Châteauneuf. Their holdings are among the largest in the appellation.

To the naked eye, these endless fields of fist-sized, rounded, beige stones appear callously inhospitable. But it’s what’s underneath that counts – deep, water-retaining clays which nourish the vines during hot, dry summers. ‘The vines need to suffer a little,’ says Daniel, but hydric stress arrives relatively late here, which ensures steadier ripening, creating finer tannins.

Irrigation is allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but only to aid ripening during the growing season, and only when officially sanctioned. This was once only sporadic, but due to the increasingly parched summers, growers now get the go-ahead almost every year. Some producers believe irrigation is now crucial to making balanced wines. But Daniel Brunier is not a fan. ‘You could turn it on at night – who’s going to check?’ says Daniel. ‘I’m not saying it should be banned, just managed. And for now, it’s not.’

Either way, he wouldn’t use it for mature vineyards, as he believes it rubs out the expression of terroir. In this sense, avoiding irrigation is even more important that working organically for Daniel (they work organically but aren’t certified). Avoiding irrigation is so important to him, that he believes non-irrigated wines deserve to be authenticated in the same way organic viticulture is certified.

Wish such a vast vineyard area under their control, one cumbersome challenge they face is replanting. Vines die for many reasons, whether it’s young vines that don’t survive the summer, disease, vineyard accidents, or old age. Every year they need to replant the equivalent of 3.5ha of vines, and they favour time-consuming mass-selection where possible, as opposed to buying clones. ‘It’s a colossal job,’ says Daniel, and one that needs addressing every year.

‘No pumps, no pipes, no screws’

On the day I visited the winery, the small wooden vats had all been drained to blend the contents before further maturation. The little door at the base of each one was wide open, and the air was heavy with black cherry jam and sweet cedar. We stuck in our heads and took deep nosefuls of the narcotic fug.

‘Granche is fragile, it oxidises easily.’ says Daniel. The winery moves grapes and must by gravity and vibration, ‘so no pumps, no pipes, no screws’. The oldest vines on La Crau are 110 years old, and these bunches keep their stems during fermentation. Others parcels are destemmed, and they ferment with natural yeasts; 60% in stainless steel, 40% in vat. Wines are matured for two years before bottling, the first year in wooden vats of various ages, the second year in large foudres.

‘What we look for is the tannic structure,’ says Daniel, ‘the most elegant and the most adapted to the vintage. Aromatically speaking, what matters is that the aromas come from the terroir, not the vinification; that they are created outside, not inside.’

Most of the production is red, but they produce 10% white Châteauneuf, more than the average. They’ve been makling white wine since the beginning, and these grapes are also grown on La Crau. It’s a blend of Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc that’s matured for a year in barrels of various sizes, with a minimal use of new oak.

They do not make a cuvée spéciale, neither do they intend to (their bottles state ‘La Crau’ on the label, but this is not a cuvée name as such.) They do however make some other Châteauneufs since purchasing another domaine.

‘Piedlong’ is a blend of old-vine Grenache from lieu-dit Pied Long with 10% Mourvèdre from lieu-dit Pignan.

‘Clos la Roquète’ is a fine and mineral white from lieu-dit la Roquète, a third each of Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Both can rival Vieux Télégraphe in quality, if not ageing potential.

‘Télégramme’ is a destemmed red cuvée from other parcels and young vines. You may have heard a whisper of the legendary ‘Cuvée Hippolyte’ – it does exist. It’s an experimental cuvée, different each year, made in reasonable quantity – but not sold commercially.

For the cellar

All these wines can be drunk straight away, but when it comes to Vieux Télégraphe, try to hold onto the reds for at least 10 years before drinking. This isn’t because it’s particularly robust or tannic when young; in fact, the opposite is true. It’s so silky and welcoming straight after bottling means that a lot gets drunk on release. At this stage, although delicious, it can lack complexity. Although he loves drinking it young, Daniel admits, ‘to know it, you have to age it.’ To ensure more drinkings get to experience Vieux Télégraphe at its peak, he is currently overseeing the construction of a new cellar specifically for bottle ageing.

It will be the next generation who benefits from this. The 1990s and 2000s were a period of prosperity for Châteauneuf, but Daniel and Frédéric didn’t take it for granted; they invested in the firm and have created an empire. His son Edouard is ready to grasp the baton. ‘Our main objective is to follow the family line,’ he says, ‘respecting the raw materials. The grapes of La Crau, without mask or make-up.’

JEB DUNNUCK – SOUTHERN RHÔNE: THE CHARMING, PROVENÇAL 2018s AND THE MOST CONCENTRATED, CLASSIC 2019s

Dégustation par Jeb Dunnuck au domaine le 6 Octobre 2020

The 2019s will be a step up over the 2018s and offer more depth, concentration, and richness, all while showing considerable purity of fruit and elegance. While the year will be known for its hot, dry summer, the region saw substantial precipitation late in 2018 as well as early in 2019. A normal spring (just under 100 millimeters of rainfall) saw a healthy fruit set and yields are up over 2018 and 2017. This early-season rainfall is essential when trying to understand the vintage.

[…]

Looking at the wines, these are inkier colored, concentrated, full-bodied wines that stays surprisingly focused and lively on the palate. Despite the hot growing season, the wines hold onto impressive aromatics, with clean, pure fruit aromas and little in the way of over-ripeness. Tannins across the board appear to be ripe, the wines have plenty of mid-palate depth, as well as length, and I found few signs of over the top wines. Quality throughout the Southern Rhône Valley also appears to be high.
I’ll review these wines in depth next year, but in short, 2019 appears to be a beautiful, possibly exceptional, vintage for the Southern Rhône and is superior to 2018.

[…]

Vieux Télégraphe – Châteaneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018

Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2018

Télégramme – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018

Terrasses du Diable – Gigondas 2018

Racines – Gigondas 2018

Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2019

Piedlong – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019

Télégramme – Châteaneuf-du-Pape 2019

Vieux Télégraphe – Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2019

Clos Roquete – Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019

Pigeoulet rouge – Vin de Pays 2019

Pigeoulet blanc – Vin de Pays 2019

Mégaphone – Ventoux 2019

Terrasses du Diable – Gigondas 2019

Racines – Gigondas 2019

WINE SPECTATOR’S INSIDER WEEKLY – JAMES MOLESWORTH – 26 JANVIER, 2022

CLOS ROQUETE 2020
93 point | $59 | 150 cases imported | White

PRÉSENTATION DE VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE 2006 À VINAPOGÉE

Présentation des Vieux Telegraphe 2006 rouge et blanc en magnum à Vinapogée à Paris le 20 janvier 2020.

Billets sont 30 euros.

Inscription sous ce lien: https://www.vinapogee.com/levenement/

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER: 2017 LES PALLIÈRES

by Clark Z. Terry, January 2020

It’s always a pleasure to have Daniel Brunier, vigneron at Vieux Télégraphe and Les Pallières, in town to visit customers. He knows how to put on a show, and anyone who attended our Autumn Tasting in Oakland in November saw his talent to connect with the public.

Daniel’s arrival was well timed with the arrival of the two 2017 bottlings from Les Pallières. When speaking about his work, Daniel likes to build connections between the wines he makes across the Rhône Valley. He’s a man of Gigondas and Ventoux, not simply Châteauneuf, where Vieux Télégraphe is based, and the through line of his production is the Grenache grape. What’s striking in his wines is how each bottling expresses the greatness of an appellation and Grenache, yet is distint and full of character. The 2017 vintage of Racines and Terrasse du Diable epitomizes this. I highly recommend picking up six bottles of each to discover what makes 2017 Les Pallières outstanding now and in the future.

2017 Gigondas « Racines »

2017 Gigondas « Terrasse du Diable »

VINOUS – THE RICHES AND RICHNESS OF CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE – JOSH RAYNOLDS

VINOUS.COM – DÉC 2019

Châteauneuf-du-Pape fans will find plenty to like from 2017, a vintage marked by consistently warm to hot weather that yielded distinctly rich, fleshy, fruit-driven wines. The growing season presented its share of challenges, and yet the best wines are compelling. Even so, readers need to be selective, as the style of the year is quite particular, and some wines are overdone.

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017

Télégramme rouge 2017

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016

Télégramme rouge 2016

JAMES SUCKLING – RHONE IN THE ZONE WITH A STRING OF SOLID VINTAGES

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCTOBRE, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

The Rhone Valley’s three most recent vintages are very distinctive and deliver quite clear influence over the wines they made. The most recent, 2017, is in a difficult position to be compared with the extrememly strong years of 2015 and 2016. However, after tasting a few hundred wines this summer in the Rhone Valley and visiting a few dozen producers, the 2017 has made some excellent wines.

Read the article

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like, raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2017

96. A stonier, more mineral expression of white Châteauneuf with impressive body and concentration. Super fresh, white flowers, flint and delicate pears here. The palate has a strong, mineral edge, smooth phenolics, fleshy stone fruit and a neat, fine, chalky finish. Clairette, grenache blanc, roussanne and bourboulenc. Drink in 2020.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2018

Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2016

98. The trademark, old-vine-grenache offering of earthy notes with wild berries, herbs, flowers and spices. Wild. Hints of blood oranges and pink-grapefruit peel. Superb, expansive palate shape, all finesse and length. Super-fine, focused and elegant. Refined, regal and majestic. Peppery, bright, wild, red fruit, blood oranges and orange bitters. Decades ahead of this. Drink or hold.

Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

93. A blend of 90% grenache for the Piedlong section and 10% mourvedre from the Pignan section, both old-vine parcels. The wild herbs and dried, wild red flowers and roses here are really something, together with grilled meat. Rich and succulent, very fleshy and intense. Drink or hold.

Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

93. Ripe and brambly raspberry, blueberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herbs. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great grenache in 2017. Drink or hold.

Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018

Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2017

Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2018

Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017

Les Pallières Gigondans Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018

93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2017

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018

JAMES SUCKLING – DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES 2018

Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018

93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

Les Racines rouge 2018

DE VIGNE EN CAVE: LES DESSOUS DU TERROIR DE GIGONDAS : LA MONTAGNE MAGQIUE

LA REVUE DE VIN DE FRANCE – OCT 2019 – SOPHIE DE SALETTES

«PARCELLES ASSEMBLÉES OU ISOLÉES»

Daniel Brunier (Domaine Les Pallières à Gigondas, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe à Châteauneuf-du-Pape) a attendu de faire connaissances avec les vignes et les vins des Pallières avant de décider que les parcelles ne seraient plus assemblées dans une seule cuvée. «Nos 25 hectares de vignes s’étagent de 200 à 400 mètres d’altitude. Nous avons constaté dès les premières années que les vins du bas et du haut ne s’assemblaient pas harmonieusement. C’est pourquoi nous avons préféfé les séparer à partir du millésime 2007.»

La cuvée Les Racines provient ainsi de vignes centenaires plantées sur les parcelles situées autour du chai, à 250 mètres d’altitude. Ce terroir aux sols argileux, avec des éboulis calcaires, est exposé au nord-ouest : le soleil y arrive donc plus tardivement. Les plus jeunes vignes (une cinquantaine d’années tout de même !) issues des Terrasses du Diables, davantage en altitude, donnent le vin éponym. «Plus on monte, plus la charge en cailloux augments et plus les vins sont tendus. Mais les raisins des parcelles hautes du domaine sont mûrs avant ceux des parcelles basses car ils profitent d’un ensoleillement prolongé.»

JEB DUNNUCK – SOUTHERN RHÔNE PART 2: 2017 & 2018 FROM GIGONDAS…

« To quickly summarize the two vintages reviewed here, 2017 is a terrific vintage throughout the Southern Rhône. The wines offer rich, powerful, incredibly Provençal styles that resemble more elegant examples of the 2009s or even fresher, more docused examples of the 2007s…

A step back, 2018 is nevertheless a good vintage that suffered due to an incredibly rainy winter and spring followed by a massive mildew outbreak in the spring and early summer. This was less of an issue for higher elevation, hillside regions such as Gigondas and Rasteau that see better airflow and cooler temperature. It’s also worth pointing out that the vintage improves as you move away from the Rhône River towards Mount Ventoux. Nevertheless, yields were down throughout the Souther Rhône in 2018 due to mildew…

What You Need To Know
Both 2017 and 2018 are solid vintages for the Rhône Valley, with 2017 offering exciting, Provençal, sexy wines that have plenty of density and structure, and 2018 offering more forward, soft, elegant wines that are going to be ideal for near term drinking. »

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017

Les Racines rouge 2017

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

Les Racines rouge 2018

SOMMELIERS INTERNATIONAL – AUTOMNE 2019 – CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2016

#165 – AUTOMNE 2019

Exploité par la famille Brunier depuis six générations (1891), le Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, installé à Bédarrides, possède des vignes d’une soixantaine d’années, sur une superficie de 70 hectares. Situé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape, sur le célèbre plateau de Crau, le vignoble offre des cuvées d’une grande minéralité grâce son terroir de galets roulés si spécifique.

Aujourd’hui, Frédéric et Daniel gèrent ensemble le domaine, accompagnés de leurs fils respectifs: Nicolas et Édouard. Les deux frères défendent la culture raisonnée bio et durable pour permettre au raisin d’exprimer tout son potentiel. Cette attention vis-à-vis de la vigne s’étend d’ailleurs à la vinification et l’élevage par une observation méticuleuse du raisin de manière à créer des vins équilibrés, avec une forte personnalité.

Chaque cuvée du domaine propose une vision différente de son terroir. Le Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, en Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Les Pallières, en Gigondas, la cuvée Mégaphone, en Ventoux ou encore le Pigeoulet, en Vaucluse. Fier de cette diversité, le domaine détient également des vignes dans le Vallée de la Béqaa (Domaine Massaya), au Liban où, comme en France, les vins créés sont des vins «dont la qualité finale n’a de valeur que par la noblesse des moyens mis en œuvre pour l’obtenir».

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER: LE VIN EN ROSE – SEPT. 2019

« Le Vin En Rose » par Jane Berg, Septembre 2019

2018 Vin de France Rosé
« Au Petit Bonheur » – Les Pallières

THE WINE ADVOCATE – DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES 2017 & 2018 – JOE CZERWINSKI

Les Racines rouge 2017

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017

Les Racines rouge 2018

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

JEB DUNNUCK – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2018

Télégramme rouge 2018

Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2018

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2018

JEB DUNNUCK – MÉGAPHONE ET PIGEOULET 2018

Pigeoulet rouge 2018

Mégaphone rouge 2018

JAMES SUCKLING – MÉGAPHONE ET PIGEOULET 17 & 18

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018

UNE EXPOSITION D’ART À VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE

La travail de vigneron est en lui-même une démarche artistique. Partir d’une matière brute et en magnifier la substance, laissant les éléments révéler leur secret, en les accompagnants au fil d’inspirations plutôt que de manipulations, c’est ce que nous efforçons de faire au Vieux Télégraphe. Nous avons un profond respect pour ce qui est beau et pour ceux qui révèlent cette beauté.

C’est donc avec un grand plaisir que nous souhaitons vous informer que nous avons ouvert cet été nos portes à 5 artistes locaux qui ont investi de leurs créations nos caveau et cave, aux côtés de nos vins. Nous vous invitons à venir découvrir cette exposition qui mêle l’art et le vin du 1er juillet au 30 septembre.

HORAIRES:
du lundi à vendredi | 8h à midi ; 13h30 à 18h
samedi | 11h à 17h

Les artistes présents sont : Xavier Spatafora, Florent Touchot, Julien Allègre, Stéphane Leberloa, et Sourski. Voir ci-dessous un descriptif de chacun d’eux :

XAVIER SPATAFORA est un artiste local qui a étudié à l’école des Beaux-Arts d’Avignon. Son travail en entièrement réalisé au stylo bille et se porte sur du figuratif de mains, d’animaux en voie de disparition et de nature. Son travail est étonnant de réalisme et vous amène à rêver d’un safari dans les paysages d’Afrique.

FLORENT TOUCHOT est un artiste plasticien et photographe qui s’inspire de la culture populaire et urbaine. Il travaille le papier mais aussi le plexiglass qui lui sert de support photographique. Il utilise une technique mixte de collage, marouflage et d’acrylique avec des morceaux d’affiches récupérées soit directement sur les murs de Paris et de Marseille, soit dans le métro ou dans des brocantes. Florent travaille aujourd’hui la superposition de ses compositions de collages avec des tirages photographiques sur plexiglass.

Les sculptures de JULIEN ALLÈGRE témoignent de son admiration pour la nature. Ici le métal trouve son expressivité à travers la rugosité et l’oxydation, il s’en trouve réincarné et investi d’une extraordinaire vitalité. Telles des sentinelles, ces silhouettes métalliques, lient l’archaïque au contemporain. Partant d’objets déjà formés, il libère le matériau de toute nécessité fonctionnelle. Ces Hommes-fossiles sont le reflet de dix années de cheminement sur la matière qui se fait gardienne de la nature.

STÉPHANE LEBERLOA se définit lui-même comme un peintre de l’émotion. Sa peinture est figurative sur une base abstraite. Leberloa n’a jamais pris de cours de dessin. Ses toiles sont spontanées, pas vraiment réfléchies. Il ne fait pas d’esquisse et généralement, ses peintures sont faites avec fulgurance. Ses œuvres n’ont pas pour but de plaire. Il ne cherche pas à séduire, juste à secouer les sentiments. Il cherche simplement à griffer, à écrire, à marquer ce qu’il a en lui et que nous avons tous de par notre humanité.

SOURSKI : avec ses sculptures en grès ou en bronze, nous entrons dans un monde irréel, où l’imaginaire et la matière font connaissance et se marient parfaitement. La fausse fragilité de la porcelaine se pose sur l’acier. La chaleur du bois frôle une partie en bronze. Il y a une réelle sensibilité dans les postures des corps, le mouvement du cou des volatiles au grand bec… Les visages ont une impression d’inquiétude, de doute, de questionnement. Ils nous interpellent jusqu’au fond des yeux.

LES MAGNUMS D‘EN MAGNUM – L‘INCONNU DE LA RUBRIQUE : PIEDLONG ROUGE 2016

[Pourquoi lui]

[On l’aime parce que]

Une telle finesse vaut bien une messe, comme disait à peu près Sully. Est-ce l’âge élevé des vignes (70 ans), sont-ce les galets roulés, le vinificateur est-il un sorcier ?

[Combien et combien]

73 euros / 850 magnums

[Avec qui, avec quoi]

Rassemblez les plus capés de vos amis, baissez la lumière, passez à table. Vous allez enfin montrer à vos convives que vous êtes un maître du vin.

[il ressemble à quoi]

À un bourgogne tout en ciselure, en dentelle. Bref, il y a de l’enthousiasme dans la bouteille, vous allez adorer.

[La bonne heure du bonheur]

Déjà bon, il sera bon tout le temps. Je suis en quête d’un ou deux vieux millésimes, pour confirmer l’impression.

[Le hashtag]

#C9DPfirst

VINUM: MAGAZIN FÜR WEINKULTUR – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE ROUGES 2016

Piedlong rouge 2016

Classique, arômes de fruits et d’épices d’un début de maturité, fruits cuits, thé. En bouche montre une minéralité et une élégance malgré l’opulence, les tannins restent frais. L’ensemble est harmonieux. Un vin qui ne joue pas de ses muscles, qui donne déjà plaisir à boire mais qui peux encore vieillir.

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016

Déjà un bouquet mur avec un fruité épicé et intense. Bonne opulence, densité, fraicheur et longueur. Mais aussi de l’élégance que l’on s’attend à avoir de la part d’un Châteauneuf du Pape classique, à quoi s’ajoute un épice particulier : un Must.

WHITE CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

Outside Burgundy and other sacred sites of Pinot production, there aren’t many great terroirs that produce white and red wines of equal standing. There’s Pessac-Léognan, Rioja, Hermitage … and what about Châteauneuf-du-Pape […]

Clos Roquète white 2017 – 94 – A subtle, lifted fennel nose. Perilously full and broad on the palate, but then finishes fresh and taut thanks to brisk acdidity and a coiled energy. An intense wine with a glinting mineral line.

KERMIT LYNCH NEWSLETTER – FEB. 2019 – PALLIERES 2016

Wines from the 2016 vintage in southern France generated plenty of excitement from growers and critics alike, so I canred correspondingly high expectations upon arriving at domaine Les Pallières in the summer of the 2017 for our annual blending session. Before a mesmerizing backdrop of stubby old grenache vins, dense pine forest, and dramatic limestone outcrops, the Bruniers – brothers Daniel and Frédéric, along with sons Edouard and Nicolas – recounted the vintage over a raucous chorus of cicadas.

In Many ways, they explained, 2016 represented the same challenges – hot, dry summer weather – that have become the norm as of late. The drought especially took its toll at Les Pallières, where the extremely old vines already eke out a bare minimum of juice each year. The vintage‘s strong point, then, is certainly not its yields. Rather, cool nights throughout the growing season ensured superb balance, color, and aromatic complexity in the resulting wines. The high elevation, north-facing terroir at Pallières accentuated this effect, giving wines defined more by a salivating freshness than by exaggerated ripeness or heat. By the time we had perfected the final blends, we all bore purple-toothed smiles and were ready to raise a cool glass of Gigondas rosé to a successful millésime 2016.

In bottle, the two cuvées of rouge confirm my initial impression – one of purity, completeness, and, most of all, great balance. Both feature the succulent perfume we love in Gigondas : black cherries picked ripe off the tree, fragrant herbes de Provence oils liberated by the pulsating summer sun, earthy licorice root …

Each terroir leaves its stamp on the palate. Supple and elegant, Racines conveys the generosity and velvety depth of ancient vines deeply rooted in clay-dominant soils. Terrasse du Diable, in contrast, relays its rocky environment with shameless audacity. Perched above the rest of the domaine on crunchy limestone rubble, it brings a chewy touch of rusticity and a saline finale.

You may find you have a taste for one cuvée over the other, or perhaps, like me, your preference will oscillate between the two with every sip. One thing is certain : each bottle I uncork leaves me more convinced that 2016 ranks among the top vintages ever produced at Pallières.

GIGONDAS : A STAR RISES. DOMAINE LES PALLIERES : ONE OF THE PRODUCERS TO KNOW

This estate is jointly owned by the Brunier family of domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and their longtime US importer Kermit Lynch.The Bruniers and Lynch bought the property in 1998 and have steadily brought it back to life.

Located on thie northwest side of the appellation, the estate is a parchwork of terraces that can be roughly divided into two halves.The first contains that estat’s oldest vines of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, located around the winery itself at elevations of 650 to 600 feet, and the second includes terraces of Grenache and Mourvèdre at higher elevations of 1,000 feet, weaving in and around the Dentelles. After an initial run of vintages, vigneron Daniel Brunier decided to bottle the fruit from the two halves of the estate separately. Both bottlings show the more elegant side of Gigondas, relyning on subtle fruit flavors, fine tanins and lingering minerality.

JAMES SUCKLING TOP 100 – Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016

Vieux Télégraphe ambassadeur de la Vallée du Rhône dans le dernier top100 de James Suckling en 72ème place.

VINOUS – CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANCS 16 ET 17

Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016

Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017

DRINKRHONE – GIGONDAS 2017 REPORT

Terrasse du Diable red 2017

Les Racines red 2017

WINE ADVOCATE – n°238 – AUG. 31 – 2018

Early on a Saturday morning, the gracious and reflective Daniel Brunier received me at his family’s historic estate to taste through a cross section of the wines that Famille Brunier is now producing. In addition to the wines of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe (VT), the group includes wines from Le Pigeoulet, Mégaphone in Ventoux, Domaine Les Pallières in Gigondas and Clos La Roquète in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Brunier took the time during my brief visit to carefully explain why he doesn’t like to call the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Télégramme a « second wine. » This wine now includes much of the red plantings from Clos La Roquète, so maybe he has a point. But it also includes the young-vine material from VT plots, and it’s clearly not of the caliber of the main VT bottling, so draw your own conclusions. The family philosophy is to avoid selected yeasts and bacteria for malolactic fermentation, allowing the naturally occurring bugs to do their work. Proportions of stems/whole clusters varies considerably, depending on the wine, as does the élevage, although most of the wines mature in foudres. While the greatness of 2016 goes unquestioned here, Brunier called 2017, « At minimum, a very, very good vintage. We were surprised it’s so fresh and balanced. » Yields were down by about 50% from the previous year. The emphasis here is on elegance and complexity. « Grenache is fantastic when it’s not fruity. It’s easy to do extraction and big wines. It takes humbleness to do less, a confidence in the land, » Brunier said. More controversially, he concluded, « Extraction has been invented to replace terroir. »

Clos La Roquète blanc 2017 (92-94)

Les Racines rouge 2017 (93-95)

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017 (91-94)

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2016 (92-94)

Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017 (93-95)

Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016 94

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017 (93-95)

Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016 96

Piedlong rouge 2017 (93-95)

Piedlong rouge 2016 (94-96)

Télégramme rouge 2017 (90-92)

Télégramme rouge 2016 91

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – A Perfect Voyage in the Rhone

[…] Daniel Brunier of Vieux Telegraphe also couched 2016 in similarly glowing terms: “If I had to summarize, I would say 2015 is a very good vintage and 2016 is magic. Honestly, the 2016 vintage is really magic; it is very rare.””

[…] The quality of the entire range of Brunier Family wines was once again exceptional, led by the flagship Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2016, which I rated 98 points. I also was impressed by the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2016, a standout vintage for this wine. It has exceptional precision and power, driven by sublime grenache character.”

[…] The white Chateauneuf highlights are refreshingly plentiful with Charbonnière and La Nerthe both delivering exceptional 2017s; also look to the Beaucastel Chateauneuf Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2017 and the Clos La Roquète 2017. The top white score goes to the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2017 with 96 points, as it shows exceptional concentration, weight and marvelous freshness in a vintage that could easily have been toppled by the dry conditions.

The 2016s (and plenty of 2017s) from the Southern Rhône – Part 1

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the old-guard estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Brunier brothers continue to make a very classic, age-worthy, and uncompromising style of wine that requires bottle age. The estate is in the eastern portion of the appellation and has a whopping 150 acres of prime terroir, almost all located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, which is one of the warmer, earlier terroirs in the region. In addition to their reds, they also make a brilliant white. I’ve also included the La Roquete releases here, which are also made by this team.

SCHWEIZERISCHE WEINZEITUNG: BASEL WINE TASTING – JUILLET/AOUT 2018

En 1976, une dégustation à Paris a ouvert la voie à un vin américain de haute qualité. 42 ans plus tard, la compétition suédoise s’est répétée à Bâle. C’était aussi excitant que le football.**

Assemblage de Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette et autres variétés.Fruits clairs mais fins, baies noires, épices douces, cerises douces, poivre, légèrement floral, terreux. Ferme en bouche, avec une acidité vive, un style ferme, des épices poivrées, des notes de mûres et d’épices en finale, minérale et longue.**

** Texte originale de Wolfgang Fassbender

THE PARTS PROVE BETTER THAN THEIR SUM

In the late 1990s, Daniel Brunier was expanding his family’s holdings. Along with his brother Frédéric, Daniel had Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, the family’s flagship property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, humming along. Vineyards in the Ventoux had been acquired for additional bottlings and he had set up his Massaya venture in Lebanon.

« We were looking to expand a bit more, maybe [50, 75, 100 acres] of Côtes du Rhône vines somewhere, » he says. « To be honest, at that time, even though Gigondas was not a big name, it was a little too expensive for us. »

But one day Brunier got a call to come visit Domaine Les Pallières, a Gigondas estate with 60 acres of vines, and a big problem: It wasn’t selling any wine. In the cellar, still in foudres and vats, were five vintages’ worth of wine, from 1993 through 1997. The 1998 harvest was hanging on the vine, and there was literally nowhere to put it.

|…]

The estate can be divided into two portions, upper and lower. The upper terraces are over 1,000 feet in elevation, average about 45 years of age and are planted primarily to Grenache with some Mourvèdre. The parcels around the winery itself range from 650 to 800 feet, and the Grenache, along with a mix of Cinsault and Syrah, are markedly older, at 70 years and up. Brunier vinified these two portions separately, then eventually blended them to make a single estate cuvée. But he kept finding the tannins a bit tight, even « rude, » as he puts it.

LA STANDARDISATION NE PASSERA PAS PAR NOUS

Les premiers jours de soleil que nous avons vécus en Provence début mars n’ont pas fait le printemps, mais quel bonheur de le sentir à portée de dodo.
A cette même période, les mises en bouteilles ont recommencé et l’un des premiers vins à s’être fait emprisonné, fut le « Rosé 2016» du Domaine Les Pallières.
Depuis le millésime 2014, nous éprouvons d’énormes difficultés à obtenir l’agrément en AOP Gigondas pour cette cuvée, avec des refus temporaires, des rattrapages, des agréments de complaisance, des remarques…, tout ceci à cause de sa couleur ; pas assez soutenue, certainement trop « naturelle » aussi, pas assez « rose » non plus ; alors cette année, nous avons décidé de ne plus prêter le flanc, de tout simplement ne plus prétendre à l’appellation Gigondas et de produire un Vin de France rosé / gris / doré Au Petit Bonheur les Pallières comme nous l’aimons, comme notre Terre nous le donne, avec ses qualités, ses défauts, mais surtout son entière personnalité ; la standardisation ne passera pas par nous.

Nous avons bien sûr gardé bien vivante la philosophie mise en place derrière ce vin il y a quelques années, ainsi que les grands principes de vinification et d’élevage suivis pour sa création ; une cueillette manuelle suivie d’un pressurage direct à basse pression et d’un débourbage naturel. Pour le départ en fermentation, un pied de cuve indigène est utilisé ; la fermentation alcoolique se déroule entièrement sous bois durant plus d’un mois ; suite à quoi la fermentation malolactique se déclenche et se termine généralement durant la période d’élevage sur lie, qui bien sûr s’achève elle-même, à la mise en bouteilles.
Un cycle assez court durant lequel se marient Clairette, Grenache et Cinsault (un tiers de chaque), dans un environnement non-interventionniste, des plus naturels, au sein duquel le raisin et son jus sont rois, et le vinificateur simple accompagnant.

Le 2016 se caractérise par une jolie couleur « pelure d’oignon », influencée par une forte présence de la Clairette apportant la touche de « dorée » qui, associée aux nuances plus « roses » des cépages rouges, nous offre ce résultat.

Le nez est salin, frais, assez discret pour l’instant, légèrement crayeux ; en bouche ce sont des sensations d’agrumes qui dominent ; c’est frais et plein à la fois. La fin est soyeuse, aérienne, légèrement anisée et assez longue, aucune amertume ne se fait remarquer ; une personnalité bien dans la lignée des millésimes précédents.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Cellar (Andrew Jefford)

[…] Does fine red Châteauneuf need age ? Can it improve with age ?

In search of answers, I decided to taste the ‘tradition’ cuvée of four leading Châteauneuf estates in three outstanding vintages, each a decade apart (2010, 2000 and 1990). […] Beaucastel, La Nerthe, Pégau and Vieux Télégraphe. […]

Vieux Télégraphe 2010 – 96 : The lightest in colour of the 2010 quartet, and a wine of outstanding aromatic complexity (bramble, strawberry, thyme, orange blossom, lavender and honey emerge with time in the glass). On the palate, it is the stoniest wine of the fou, with the finest quality tannins : gathered, shapely, savoury, textured and long. A Châteauneuf which succeeds in being both commanding and refined, and a great Vieux Télégraphe.

Vieux Télégraphe 2000 – 95 : Slightly deeper in hue than La Nerthe, but the same depth of colour as Pégau. This wine has, remarkably enough, retained wild flower and lavender notes with a falling honeyed sweetness too. On the palate,, it has better volume and force than La Nerthe, with lower acidity and richer tannins. This is a very complete wine at present, with notes of thyme and meaty umamy framing the refined, stony fruits.

Vieux Télégraphe 1990 – 96 : A deep, clear brick-garnet in colour. Harmonious, serene aromas suggesting thyme, lavender, pine, tangerine and grilled meats, all smudged together into an enticing pastel wash. Still, too, a wealthy wine on the palate, the ample, plump, structuring tannins and ripe, stately, expressive flavours. No fruit left no, but lots of mushroom, cigar leaf, meat juices – and that lingering stony warmth which is a hallmark of Vieux Télégraphe.

WINE GRENACHE – THE GREAT SEDUCERS (Tim White – Australian Financial Review – www.afr.com)

“Slinky” as a descriptor is one I use rarely, especially to describe the smell of a wine, although I’ve used it to describe an aspect of the taste of wine 20 times,

according to my FileMaker Pro tasting note database of many tens of thousands of wines. “Slinky” plus “sexy” I employ even less frequently: I’ve used the combo just twice. It’s quite obviously a highly subjective descriptor and to many might not convey much. But Daniel Brunier of Vignobles Brunier knew exactly what I meant when I deployed “slinky-sexy” to describe one of the reds in his family’s formidable portfolio (the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de La Vieux Télégraphe, being internationally acknowledged as one the finest estates of the appellation).

“Oh, if it’s slinky-sexy, you must be be talking about the Télégramme,” he said as he sat down for a chat after I’d concluded tasting a random line-up of eight wines.I looked again at my tasting notes and cross-referenced them with the list of order of wines I’d been given and

voilà: Télégramme. The 2013 Télégramme is a blend dominated by grenache, a grape for which I have considerable affection (the first wine that really got me hooked was a grenache-based red).

When I tell Brunier this, he informs me that he was rather disappointed with the prevailing feeling about the grape variety when he first visited Australia several years ago. “It was strange that grenache is not well considered. I was a bit disturbed by that.” A situation which is all the more remarkable when you consider that Australia has one of the greatest resources of old vine Grenache anywhere in the world. The Télégramme, he tells me, is one of just two of his wines which does not contain any stems (i.e. the grape berries have been removed from the bunches). The majority of Vignobles Brunier’s reds, including the aforementioned Domaine de La Vieux Télégraphe have a good portion of whole-bunches in them.

He says of stems and Télégramme that, “We don’t keep stems in this wine, because if you keep the stems in wine, it has to be discreet. Stems is not [a] simple thing.” Now whole-bunch fermentation is a topic du jour in Australia; I guess it has been for best part of five or six years now (in a more mainstream way). So I ask him how long the domain has been employing whole bunches in ferments? “One hundred and ten years,” he replies matter-of-factly. I double-check just to clarify, and seeing the look of incredulity on my face, he laughs, “Or 112 or 116 … During a long, long period everything was not destemmed, but from [the] ‘90s we did mourvèdre, cinsault and young vines of grenache.” “Young vines” in the Brunier viticultural lexicon transpires to mean 30-35 years old! He continues, “We changed because we thought there was this vegetal thing

Les Pallières La Racines 2013 – 95(96)/100 – $94

Powerful smelling with prune, demi-glace, charred beef ribs and some lavender-like aromatics. Concentrated, but still fresh smelling. As it is in the mouth with pomegranate-rose hip edginess and incredible fruit length and depth. Tight and chewy, and ideally needs another five years to show its best. Cave at: natural cork.

NY TIMES WINE SCHOOL : GIGONDAS

It is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, known as garnacha in Spain and cannonau in Sardinia, but Americans know it best by its French name, grenache. It is the most important constituent in the blend of grapes in Gigondas, the next focus of Wine School.

The southern Rhône is known for its warm, generous, heady wines. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most famous among them. Its wine can achieve a majesty that other southern Rhône appellations can only envy, but Châteauneufs nowadays can also seem overly powerful and fruity depending on the style of the producer. They are also expensive.

Gigondas, by contrast, tend to be a little fresher and gentler in potency and price than Châteauneuf, while retaining many of the characteristics that come from the Mediterranean climate and the bright Provençal sun. Gigondas won’t be low in alcohol — that’s just the nature of grenache. But it goes very well with sweaters and the onset of chilly weather.

Here are the three wines I suggest you try:

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 2012 (A Daniel Johnnes Selection/Skurnik Wines, New York) $30

Domaine du Gour de Chaulé Gigondas Cuvée Tradition 2012 (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York) $30

Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable 2011 (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.) $40

As is so often the case, these may be hard to find, so don’t hesitate to look for other producers, like Grapillon d’Or, Montirius, Montmirail, Château du Trignon, Château de St.-Cosme, Raspail-Ay, La Bouïssière and Notre Dame des Pallières. These are among the best, but buy whatever you can find. You could even try Vacqueyras, a neighboring appellation, or some of the better Côte-du-Rhônes-Villages from places like Cairanne or St.-Gervais.

These wines are best served with hearty foods. They will go great with casseroles and meaty stews, braised dishes and lamb shanks, as well as burgers and sausages. They will flatter roast chicken. (Doesn’t every wine?) You may also want to experiment with some savory-and-sweet combinations, like a tagine made with meat and fruit.

As always, it’s better to serve these wines with a light chill, say 60 to 65 degrees rather than 75 degrees. Decanting is never necessary. But one thing I’ve learned from Wine School is that decanting does seem to improve just about every young red. So, while it’s not essential, as my people like to say, it couldn’t hurt.

By Eric Asimov

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE 2013

Really strong for the vintage, there is wealth of black raspberries, herbs and kirsch, paired with silky smooth textures and a fresh, sweet, peppery, kirsch finish. Produced from a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault

Jeff Leve

lien article

PALLIERES TERRASSE DU DIABLE ROUGE 2012

Beaucoup de bois, épices douces, tanins serrés, savoureux, résine, ferme, beaucoup de potentiel, riche, note amère, persistant. 16,5.

Olivier Bompas

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES

Domaine Les Pallières a été sélectionné dans la catégorie « Progressions de l’Année» de ce guide

PALLIERES AU PETIT BONHEUR 2014

15/20. Avec deux hectares de Gigondas, un assemblage en trois tiers (grenache, cinasult, clairette), fermenté à partir de levures indigènes, c’est un rosé à l’expression d’épices douces avec une final safranée.

VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2001

Millésime cité dans la rubrique Wine of the Week du site chngpohtiong.com proposé par Poh Tiong / The Wine Review à Singapour.

The Vieux Télégraphe wines are just so memorable. This bottle was from the list of Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, attached to but independent of, Hotel Balzac. Ruby/red with an orange ringe on the rim. Elegant blue fruit with a hint of tobacco. The tannons are ripe, fresh and crisp. They hold together very well the soft sweetness of fruit. Medium-plus-ish bodied. The blend includes Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault. Sitauted in Bédarrides, the owning Brunier Family are as discrret and low profile as their wines are exalted (not just the red but also the white Chateauneuf). Every visit to the domaine is unforgettable, especially when Daniel Brunier takes you to hte high plateau of La Crau where the ‘soil’ is made up of smooth, large stones from the Villafranchian Period some two million years ago.

AU PETIT BONHEUR PALLIERES ROSE 2014

Fin, élégant et léger : un sans-faute avec une paella ou un tajine d’agneau aux pruneaux
Hélène Piot

PIEDLONG ROUGE 2014

Cité parmi les incontournables de la Vallée du Rhône Sud

Grande subtilité de parfums dans une bouche élancée, avec un grain soyeux. En blanc, le Clos la Roquète est également une belle réussite. 16.5-17.5

Robert Petronio

Nous vous attendons à Vinexpo du 14 au 18 juin 2015

L’équipe du Vieux Télégraphe vous donne rendez-vous à Vinexpo Bordeaux 2015 du 14 au 18 Juin.
Ce sera pour elle une belle occasion de vous présenter sa nouvelle gamme de Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouges composée de Télégramme, Piedlong et Vieux Télégraphe, ainsi que l’ensemble des autres vins et domaines rattachés : Vieux Télégraphe et Clos la Roquète blancs, Les Pallières, Mégaphone, Pigeoulet ainsi que la nouvelle gamme Massaya.
Ce sera aussi la toute première occasion de présenter sur un salon professionnel, son millésime 2013 en Châteauneuf-du-Pape et Gigondas rouges, qui se présente aujourd’hui comme l’un des grands millésimes des années 2000, mais aussi et surtout de passer du temps en votre compagnie, échanger sur les nouveautés, vos projets et les siens.
A bientôt donc au hall 1 Stand E286

Ah nos fromages de chèvre !

Cela fait presque trois ans que nous travaillons à la mise en place d’une petite production de fromages de chèvre à Pallières. L’idée de base fut d’accueillir un troupeau de chèvres en ce lieu très escarpé, afin d’entretenir en partie les 110 ha de bois que compte le domaine. Le choix s’est porté rapidement sur la race « Rove » du nom du village voisin de Marseille sur la Côte bleue où elle s’est développée et y est bien connue pour son aptitude à vivre en terroirs arides. Rencontre avec Angel, fromager en Espagne venu faire une expérience de vendanges au Vieux Télégraphe, remise en état de l’ancienne bergerie, accueil des premières pensionnaires, naissance de la génération 2, création de la fromagerie aux normes européennes et arrivée des premiers fromages avec la série d’expériences nécessaires pour aboutir à la boule de Pallières, sur laquelle notre choix s’est arrêté. C’est en quelques mots les différentes étapes qui se sont succédées pour en arriver à la génération 3 de Rove, portant le troupeau à 32 têtes et la mise en place d’une petite production de boules de Pallières commercialisée localement, en ce printemps 2015. Rencontres, expériences et apprentissage, respect des cycles de la nature, naissance d’un vrai goût. La boule de Pallières est née et c’est un vrai petit bonheur.

L’huile d’olive Vieux Télégraphe

L’huile d’olive Vieux Télégraphe millésime 2014 a fait son entrée dans notre gamme ce printemps 2015, en bouteilles de 50cl seulement. Elle est le fruit d’une collaboration étroite avec Catherine et Jean Benoit Hugues du moulin Castelas aux Baux de Provence ; nous souhaitions depuis de nombreuses années, mettre en valeur la production de nos vergers. C’est chose faite. Elle sera d’ailleurs elle aussi en dégustation à Vinexpo.

Voici quelques précisions techniques :
– variétés : Salonenque, Petit Ribier, Aglandau
– date de cueillette : 10 octobre 2014
– processus d’extraction : broyeur à marteaux lents – extraction à froid en chaîne continue dans les 6 heures suivant la cueillette – décanteur 2 phases sans apport aqueux
– volume produit : 1000 bouteilles de 50 cl

2012 TELEGRAMME

Deep red. Vibrant red berry, lavender and mineralaromas, with a subtle garrigue quality building in the glass. Bright, racy and pure, offering freshraspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Sweeter and fuller on the finish,which features soft tannins and a late kick of white pepper. Distinctly elegant Chateauneuf with noexcess weight; in fact, there\’s something pinot-like going on here. 91-93

2012 & 2011 VIEUX TELEGRAPHE ROUGE

2012 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge
Bright ruby. Intense raspberry and cherry aromas arecomplicated by hints of lavender, spicecake and blood orange. Juicy and fruit-driven, with palatecoatingflavors of sweet, spice-tinged red fruits and candied flowers. Quite suave and seamless,boasting striking purity to its red fruit- and mineral-driven finish. Those who decry the ripeness andheady character of most Chateauneufs owe it to themselves to try this wine. 92-94

2011 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge
Bright ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry compote, potpourri and Asian spices on the highly perfumednose. Juicy red and dark berry flavors stain the palate, showing terrific clarity and spicy lift. Thespicy quality comes back strong on the finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins. In agraceful, almost weightless style, with zero excess fat but noteworthy flavor intensity. Iunderestimated this wine last year. 93

PALLIERES LES RACINES ROUGE 2011 & 2012

2011 Les Racines

Brilliant ruby. Lively red fruit and floral scents are complicatedby suggestions of smoky minerals and potpourri. Spicy, penetrating and pure, offering gently sweetraspberry and lavender pastille flavors and a subtle touch of blood orange. Closes smooth and long,with a whisper of tannins and strong mineral cut. This wine is a poster child for the blend of powerand elegance that marks a great Gigondas. 92

2011 Terrasse Du Diable
Vivid ruby. Heady scents of candied cherry, raspberrypreserves, anise and potpourri. Shows a darker profile in the mouth, offering palate-stainingblackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong floral quality. Picks up smokiness with air andfinishes with superb focus and length and youthful tannic grip. No question that this is one of thebest wines I tasted from Gigondas this year. 93

SOUTHERN RHONE

WINE ADVOCATE – Date de parution : 31 OCT 2010 – Auteur : ROBERT PARKER

2009 Pigeoulet red
Bistros, brasseries and consumers looking for an easygoing, quaffing wine should check out the Brunier’s Le Pigeoulet, which Daniel Brunier calls a ‘retro’ style of wine (meaning that in the age of power and generosity, this is a lighter, more elegant, fruity, earthy effort meant for immediate consumption). The 2008 and 2009 vintage are cut from the same mold, with the 209 being slightly deeper, with riper fruit. This 5,000 cs cuvee offers considerable value. 85

DES VINS D’AUTEURS

Gaultmillau
Une sélection de « caviste » mettant en avant des vignerons artisans qu’il a fallu convaincre de faire partager leur passion. Il y a urgence à se procurer ces vins de haute couture, comme chez Muré, ou de grandes maisons, comme Jaboulet, dont le niveau ne cesse de monter. Gardez-le pour vous, mais derrière le Pigeoulet des Brunier et le domaine Les Pallières se cache le savoir-faire d’un grand nom de la vallée du Rhône : l’équipe du domaine du Vieux Télégraphe.

Pigeoulet rouge 2009
Gouleyant et Capiteux avec une belle mâche généreuse d’un grenache ensoleillé. La trame ferme appelle un carafage pour donner la première place aux fruits puis aux épices chaleureuses. Avec une cuisine de tous les jours.

WORD WIDE SEARCH FOR VALUES

Wine spectator
we present a summary of the most exciting wines tasted in 2008 and a preview of what you can expect in 2009. This year, we have put an added emphasis on values, and our editors recommended more than 60 producers who are on the cutting edge of quality, at an affordable price. I PIGEOULET : the owners of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe and domaine la Roquète in Châteauneuf produce two value-priced cuvées under the basic Vin de Pays de Vaucluse designation. The Le Pigeoulet en Provence white is a blend of Grenache blanc, Clairette and Roussane, while the red is predominantly Grenache along with the Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan.

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES – GIGONDAS

As wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape become more popular – and more expensive – those who love the Grenache-based reds of the Southern Rhône Valley can turn to other appellations for relief. Gigondas […] is considered by many to be a mini version of the Southern Rhône’s premier appellation, but in a more rustic vein. In reality, however, its terroir is quite different, and its best wines offer distinctive character as well as welcome value. […] This terroir combines with the significant elevation and predominantly northern and northwestern exposures to produce wines that, at their best, have more finesse and perfume than their cousins from Châteauneuf. […] The traditional approach in Gigondas has been to mimic the Châteauneuf style, which involves long maceration (typically with minimal destemming). The resulting wines are often thick-textured, with rugged tannins that give Gigondas its rustic reputation. But the best examples marry ripe, dark black fruit with fine-grained tannins and perfumed, minerally finishes. These wines age well, delivering mesquite, iron and black tea notes after five to eight years. […] Gigondas currently has more than 180 individual growers, […] Among the region’s leaders are producers such as Domaine Les Pallières, Domaine Santa Duc, Château de Trignon, Domaine des Espiers and Perrin et Fils, among others.