slightly darker in colour than the Terrasse du Diable cuvée. This is sourced from the oldest vines (average 60 years) on the property and is a blend of 80 per cent grenache, 15 per cent syrah and five per cent clairette. The nose has brambly fruit, some red and darker purple fruits here, with a lilting delicate fragrant lift, really soulful. The palate has immense concentration, a lithe, muscular shape and richness that flows effortlessly. Good poise and length, sturdy for a Gigondas and also one to age.
Coming from 70-year-old vines on the more drought resistant lower slopes (where there is more clay in the soil) is the 2009 Gigondas Les Racines. Slightly better, with more color, this blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Cinsault and Syrah reveals more complexity in a savage, animal-like manner. Hints of mint, strawberry liqueur, tree bark, porcini mushrooms and kirsch emerge from this complex, concentrated Gigondas. Drink it over the next decade.
Now that partners Daniel Brunier and Kermit Lynch have gotten a full grasp of this complicated, cool climate terroir, Les Pallières quality has soared.
Deep ruby-hued. Offers a perfumed bouquet of crushed rocks, raspberries, black cherries, currants and hints of garrigue as well as spice box. Velvety-textured, opulent and long, with stunning purity and equilibrium, it should well for 10-15 years.
Ruby with quite an aged rim. Already smells quite mature! Almost as though it had some 2008 in it. Very sweet and mellow and charming. I really don’t know what explains this fast-forward wine but it has good richness and freshness with the merest suggestion of fine tannins. Strange but satisfying for early drinking.
91-93. Ruby-red. Spicy red berries and dried flowers on the nose, with suggestions of anise and underbrush adding complexity. Nervy, precise redcurrant and wild strawberry flavors show an attractive touch of sweetness and good peppery lift. Bracingly brisk on the very persistent finish, which repeats the redcurrant note and shows a refreshingly bitter rhubarb quality. Made from a blend of 80% grenache, 15% co-planted syrah and cinsault and 5% clairette.