Nez ouvert, des notes de fruits gourmands, presque confiturés, le végétal est aussi présent, laurier. C’est dense et vineux.
La bouche est sérieuse, structurée, belle richesse, c’est équilibré ; invite à la table. Accompagnera magnifiquement bien une épaule ou un gigot d’agneau confit, mariné au thym.
A ouvrir mais peut attendre sans aucun souci.
89. All charm, with violet, silky cherry and plum fruit and light lavender notes gliding through. A tug of wet stones shows on the finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan. Drink now through 2018. 5,200 cases made, 2,150 cases imported.
Piedlong rouge 2016
91-93. (50% whole clusters; aged for a year in concrete vats followed by another year in neutral oak foudres) Deep ruby-red. Assertive red fruit preserve and floral aromas, along with garrigue and spice notes that build steadily in the glass. Juicy and expansive on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of spicecake. Shows a hint of licorice on an impressively long, floral-tinged finish that’s given shape by fine-grained tannins.
LES MAGNUMS D’EN MAGNUM
L’inconnu de la rubrique : Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2016
[Pourquoi lui]
Je suis tombé dessus un jour par hasard avec l’impression de changer de dimension. À l’aveugle, je ne l’aurais jamais placé en Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Ce vin est issu d’un assemblage de deux parcelles, les grenaches de Piedlong et les mourvèdres de Pignan, pour 10 %. Du coup, la famille Brunier m’est apparue comme une bande de grands couturiers. Qu’elle est. J’en ai acheté plein.
[On l’aime parce que]
Une telle finesse vaut bien une messe, comme disait à peu près Sully. Est-ce l’âge élevé des vignes (70 ans), sont-ce les galets roulés, le vinificateur est-il un sorcier ?
[Combien et combien]
73 euros / 850 magnums
[Avec qui, avec quoi]
Rassemblez les plus capés de vos amis, baissez la lumière, passez à table. Vous allez enfin montrer à vos convives que vous êtes un maître du vin.
[il ressemble à quoi]
À un bourgogne tout en ciselure, en dentelle. Bref, il y a de l’enthousiasme dans la bouteille, vous allez adorer.
[La bonne heure du bonheur]
Déjà bon, il sera bon tout le temps. Je suis en quête d’un ou deux vieux millésimes, pour confirmer l’impression.
[Le hashtag]
#C9DPfirst
98. The tradmark, old-vine-grenache offering of earthy notes with wild berries, herbs, flowers and spices. Wild. Hints of blood oranges and pink-grapefruit peel. Superb, expansive palate shape, all finesse and length. Super-fine, focused and elegant. Refined, regal and majestic. Peppery, bright, wild, red fruit, blood oranges and orange bitters. Decades ahead of this. Drink of hold.
(94 – 96). Still yet to be bottled, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong is 90% Grenache (from the Piedlong lieu-dit) and 10% Mourvèdre. It offers mouthwatering elements of cherries and raspberries, rose petals and black tea. Silky, lacy and delicate in texture for such a full-bodied wine, it’s immediately charming and seductive.
94. Always brought up in foudre, it comes from the pebbly soils of the Piélong lieu-dit located in the heart of the appellation. Incorporating 10% Mourvèdre, its medium ruby color is followed by a complex, layered, beautifully Grenache that has lots of savory red fruits, dried strawberries, dried earth, spice, and licorice aromas and flavors. It’s medium to full-bodied, beautifully balanced and long.
50% destemmed fruit. This has an attractive floral nose, very fresh and expressive. Some spicy hints coming through too. Full-bodied, rich and generous on the palate, with some distinct sweetness to the strawberry fruit and a long, fine finish. Slightly raised alcohol, but great finesse. Very fine tannins and a tapered finish. Their best to date.
Drinkin window 2018-2026
Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Piedlong 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The producer of this wine was previously known as Domaine la Roquète. They merged with Vieux Télégraphe in May 2017.
Earthy and spicy on the nose, with all the volume and intensity to be expected from Châteauneuf – especially in 2016. It’s big in every dimension, but still balanced, and the quality of flavour is impressive. (RH)Drink 2019-2031
£40 RRP imported by Thorman Hunt 17+
(94-96). The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Piedlong comes at you with waves of flowing stone fruit, from cherries, to apricots, to plums. It’s richly concentrated yet velvety, with a long, peppery finish. It looks to be a beauty.