Leading off the 2020s now from bottle, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is round, expansive, and has plenty of volume, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, ground pepper, and Provençal garrigue. It’s balanced, has ripe tannins, brings plenty of fruit and intensity, and is perfect for drinking over the coming decade. 92 pts.
Production was down 30% due to frost, but the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is solid, with a medium-bodied, fresh, and lively style as well as attractive darker berry fruits, peppery herbs, and a kiss of minerality. It’s an elegant, balanced wine that will drink nicely for 5-7 years, probably longer. 89-91 pts.
94. Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold.
91-92. Both bright and fleshy, this is a very good introduction to Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Plenty of damson plum and bright cherry with a touch of plum-cake character. A solid core of tannins keeps the palate dry and straight. Good lenght, if not that complex at the finish.
Ce classique de l’appellation plaira par ses arômes de fruits rouges et noirs mûrs et par la profondeur de son corps. Ensemble satisfaisant, agréable et équilibre.
91-93+. Moving to the 2019s, these unquestionably have another level of concentration and depth over the 2018s. Starting with the 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape Télégramme, this deep purple-hued beauty boasts a great nose of both black and blue fruits, peppery herbs, and crushed stone to go with a medium to full-bodied, meaty, mouthfilling style on the palate. It’s one of the more structured vintages for this cuvée that I can recall, and it also might just be one of the best yet.
93. Rich, ripe, heady and particularly stony, Vieux Télégramme 2nd wine is a savoury, well-balanced, especially succulent wine, with fine, firm, gritty tannins and a marvelously saline flavour profile complete with wild herbs, cold gravel, and a range of fresh-ripe red and black fruit. I particularly admire the comfort and ease on the palate, concentrated and complex without recourse to excessive ripeness or exaggerated concentration. Length and depth, too, are excellent. A genuinely classy wine; drink or hold mid-term. Tasted March 2021.
93. Telegramme is the second label of the esteemed Vieux Telegraphe. This is a ripe, rich easy yet elegant Chateauneuf for drinking at will. The nose effortlessly combines plum-berry jam, red rose, fine brown spice, pepper and warmed earth. It is medium-full bodied, very smooth, and almost silky in texture. The length is excellent. Real poise and some charm here. Best now to 2030.
90. The quality of the entry-level cuvée from this estate has soared over the past decade and the 2018 Chàteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is unquestionably an outstanding wine. Revealing a deep ruby/purple color as well as Provençal notes of spiced blue fruits, ground pepper, garrigue, and violets, it has medium to full-bodied richness, plenty of mid -palate depth (which can be lacking in a number of 2018s), notable balance, and just a delicious, Provençal, ready to go style. lt’s ideal for enjoying anytime over the coming 7-8 years.
92-93. This has a lot of red fruit, a lot of personality and a lot of brambly aromas with spicy nuances, too. The palate has a very smooth build and a deep, plum and red-fruit core, framed in long, noble and rich, ripe tannins. The immediate fleshy appeal is high. Wait for the rest. Try from 2022.
90-92. Including slightly less Grenache than normal, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme is the entry level wine of the estate, yet it always delivers plenty of character. Violets, ripe cherries, blue fruit hints, and ground pepper all give way to a medium to full-bodied, fruit-forward, fleshy, nicely textured 2018 that’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate.
92-93. Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.
93-94. Bright and brambly. Ripe, blueberry, raspberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herb notes. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great value. Barrel sample.
(90 – 92). A prospective tank sample of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme was full-bodied but not particularly rich or concentrated considering the overall vintage character. Crisp strawberry and black cherry fruit are edgy, with firm tannins and clearly in need of additional élevage.
90-92. Vinified and aged in tronconique tanks, Télégramme (it’s the classic blend but slightly shifted toward the Mourvèdre) offers a rich, concentrated, structured style that over the past 5-10 years has shown more depth, elegance, and structure. Black raspberries, white flowers, graphite, garrigue, and mineral notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, layered, beautifully textured 2017 that has fine tannin, plenty of depth and a good finish.
93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins.
96. Very complex and composed. Bright aromas of wild, red-berries and herbs. Some blueberry pastry, too. Plush, ripe and concentrated palate with long, smooth, ripe and powerful tannins. Great depth and detail. Fresh, red-berry and plum flavors run riot on the finish. Drink or hold.
91. Boasting silky tannins, strawberry-raspberry fruit and delicate herbal shadings, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme isn’t hugely rich or concentrated, but it is harmonious and graceful. Bottled in March 2018, it’s immediately approachable yet capable of providing pleasure over the next 5-7 years.
92. Bottled in April (which is always earlier than the other two Châteauneuf from this estate) it has real depth and richness as well as terrific notes of black raspberries, crushed rocks, salty, licorice, pepper, crushed flowers, and toasted spices. Medium to full-bodied, balanced, with plenty of tannins hiding under its fruit, it’s an ideal wine for readers looking to see a hint of the style of this estate. It will keep for over a decade as well.
Dom du Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Gorgeously ripe red fruit with cranberry and redcurrant flavours. Lightly spiced, superbly balanced structure with tannin and acid counterbalancing nicely. Finishes with a firm, ageable grip and lovely long savoury persistence. (RH)Drink 2020-2030
£111 per case of 6 ib Clarion Wines 17+
(89-91). Slightly more concentrated than the 2015, the 2016 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape is a medium to full-bodied yet supple, berry-scented wine. It should drink well for a decade.
91. A silky, elegant style, with light blood orange, bitter cherry and damson plum fruit stretching out over sandalwood, bergamot and incense notes. Gentle but persistent through the finish. Drink now through 2027. 11,200 cases made.
88. Drawn from young vines (under 40 years old) in La Crau and six or seven other parcels regardless of age, the 2015 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape features pretty cherry fruit and a fine dusting of clove and allspice. It’s a supple, easy-to-drink wine to be consumed Young.
Vivid ruby-red. The complex, highly perfumed nose evokes fresh raspberry, cherry, spicecake and lavender. Juicy, seamless and liverly on the palate, offering focused red fruit, succulent herb and spicecake flavors that deepen on the back half. Nicely concentrated but also lithe and precise. Gentle tannins give shape to the energetic fruit on the clinging finish. (90-92) pts
This is from the vineyards around La Crau. Fresh, bright raspberry and strawberry fruit aromas with a smooth, ripe and red plum-flavored palate. Pastry-like layers of fine tannins. Drink now. 93 Pts
Elegant, refined, forward, medium bodied and focused on its red fruits and silky textures, over concentration and power. This charmer is already quite taste and easy to drink. 90 Pts
89+. One of the finer, more elegant and classy examples of the cuvée I can remember, the 2015 Télégramme Châteauneuf du Pape is more a mini Vieux Telegraphe at this point than the more fruit-forward Télégramme examples of the past. Framboise, currants, dried earth and garrigue all emerge from this medium-bodied, elegant and finesse-driven wine that’s ideal for drinking while you wait on the top cuvée.
88. Bottled in January (the other cuvées were bottled in July), the 2014 Télégramme Châteauneuf du Pape is a terrific introduction into the style of the estate, and in the past where it was a more fruit-forward, easy wine, today it has more elegance, purity and longevity. Black cherries, hints of raspberries and crushed rocks all emerge from this juicy, medium-bodied effort that will keep nicely for 4-6 years.
90 – $46 : Brilliant red. A lively, spice-tinged nose displays zesty red berry and floral scents, along with hints of succulent herbs and white pepper. Taut red currant and strawberry flavors open up and deepen slowly with air, showing very good clarity and picking up a sweet lavender pastille quality. Shows appealing finesse and nerve, with no rough edges, and finishes on a resonating floral note with sneaky, harmonious tannins.
90 – $46 : Bright ruby. Ripe cherry and raspberry on the perfumed nose gain lift and spice from a peppery quality. Juicy and smooth on the palate, offering gently sweet red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint of succulent herbs. Shows good energy on the supple finish, which is framed by fine-grained tannins and lifted by tangy acidity.
(87-90). The young-vine, entry-level Telegramme is solid, and this cuvee continues to offer more and more bang for the buck as the vines mature. The goal is upfront and easy-drinking, while still showing classic Vieux Télégraphe character. It has beautiful aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a fleshy, ripe, supple profile that can be hard to come by in this vintage. It has outstanding potential and will drink nicely on release.
89. Features a core of dark fig and steeped black currant fruit while remaining silky in feel overall, with subtle chestnut, bay and lavender notes hanging in the background. Approachable, but there\’s no rush. Drink now through 2022
88. Offers a supple, textured and ready-to-go fell. Giving up loads of sweet cherry, leather, licorice and floral aromas and flavors. It’s ideal fro drinking over the coming 4-6 years
[…]la famille Brunier ne privilégie pas la puissance malgré la générosité en alcool mais au contraire l\\\’équilibre et la buvabilité. Pour cela on joue sur l\\\’encépagement complexe et l\\\’on ne recherche pas forcément le raisin en surmaturité ! […]
Se montre plus chaleureux (que Piedlong 2012) dans ses parfums et offre davantage de relief.
Deep red. Vibrant red berry, lavender and mineral aromas, with a subtle garrigue quality building in the glass. Bright, racy and pure, offering fresh raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Sweeter and fuller on the finish, which features soft tannins and a late kick of white pepper. Distinctly elegant Chateauneuf with no excess weight; in fact, there\’s something pinot-like going on here. 91-93
Moving to the Chateauneufs and the Brunier\’s entry level offering (a second wine, if you will, and includes grapes from Vieux Telegraphe and La Roquete), the 2012 Telegramme is fruity and up-front, with medium-bodied richness and depth, excellent aromatics and an easy-drinking feel. It will be a delicious drinker to consume over the coming 5-6 years. Drink now-2020. (87-89 pts)
With up-front blackberry, tobacco leaf, licorice and olive tapenade, the 2011 Telegramme (70% Grenache and the balance Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged all in foudre) is medium-bodied, soft and supple, with sweet fruit and solid freshness. It, too, is a rock-solid drinker that has plenty of character. Drink now-2019. 88 pts
Vivid ruby. Fresh red berries and garrigue on the fragrant, high-pitched nose. Juicy and precise, offering gently sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes soft and supple, with no obvious tannins and good cling. 89-91
($44) Ruby-red. Aromas and flavors of candied red berries and garrigue, with a spicy nuance adding vivacity. Intensely floral and seamless in texture; this is quite approachable. Finishes sweet and very long, with lingering spiciness and only a hint of tannins. 91
A big kiss of raspberry and kirsch liqueur jumps from the glass. Displaying slightly more acidity and freshness than the 2009, the 2010 represents a good introduction to the style of Vieux Télégraphe
90-92. Bright ruby-red. Fresh raspberry, wild strawberry and rhubarb on the nose, along with an attractive floral nuance. Silky and pure, the red fruit flavors showing good energy and betraying no rough edges. Open-knit and and well-balanced Chateauneuf with resonating floral and raspberry notes on the finish.
2009 Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape (A$85) is a rich amalgam of ripe yet fresh mixed summer berries with a distinct raspberry tinge to the fruit. It’s bright. with some candied red licorice too. The palate is supple and juicy with medium-weight tannins and light-spiced oak. Compact with good length, it will fill out in time. This is a vintage to leave for some years.
A juicy, gutsy style, with a core of crushed plum, braised fig and warm red and black cherry confiture notes backed by flashes of apple wook and tobacco on the open, lively finish. Drink now through 2018.
Exhibits lots of kirsch, damp earth and spice box notes in its medium to fullbodied, endearing, open-knit, charming personality. Enjoy it over the next 5-6 years.
91. Vivid red. Floralaccented scents of candied red fruits and herbs. Refreshingly bitter and precise, with energetic raspberry and cherry flavors picking up spiciness with air. The floral quality comes back on the bright, spicy, very persistent finish. I like this wine\’s clarity and balance.
Exhibits sweet framboise, kirsch and licorice notes intermixed with hints of garrigue and pepper. Fruity and medium to full-bodied with silky tannins and a lovely, up-front, precocious personality, it will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-6 years.
Bright red. Fresh red fruits, violet and minerals on the pungent nose. Suave and understated in the mouth, offering lively cut and pure redcurrant and raspberry flavors. Packs a good punch but this wine is quite feminine in style. Balanced and harmonious Chateauneuf, finishing with good spicy length and silky tannins.
Delicious up-front, fruity, medium-bodied, soft effort displaying lots of herb-tinged strawberry and kirsh characteristics. It should drink well for 3-4 years.
Bright red. Raspberry and cherry on the high-toned, spicy nose. Light and precise, featuring slightly bitter red fruit and cherry pit flavors that are somewhat clenched. Opens up with air and finishes with good nervy cut and precision.
Ripe and round, with nice mouthfeel to the lush red and black cherry compote, fig sauce and anise notes. The long, violet-and-mineral filled finish has a lightly firm edge. Drink now through 2015. 4900cs made – $38
rating (87-89) – not yet released – Vieux Telegraphe-s second wine, Telegramme (which sports a brilliant label in my opinion), is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, primarily from the estate-s younger vines, The 2008 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape reveals a medium ruby color, supple tannins, sweet red cherry and currant fruit, and an upfront, tasty style. Enjoy it over the next several years.
Bright red. Spicy red berries and cherry on the nose. Lively, tightly knit red fruit flavors are given depth by a hint of cola and framed by silky tannins. Taut and linear in a pinot way, finishing with good clarity and spiciness. 87-89
Grenache fruit, hint of earth. Old style Châteauneuf, very complete and approachable, but not overly complex. 16.2
Deep red. Captivating aromas of black raspberry, wild rose, Asian spices and smoked meat. Brighter red fruits on the palate, with notes of cola and candied flowers gaining strength with air. Showing more depth, richness and warmth than last year. Finishes with very good grip and an echo of smoke. 90
rating 90 – The outstanding 2007 Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape (15.8% alcohol) offers notes of kirsch liqueur, spring flowers, and framboise, medium to full body, good acidîty, a beautiful texture, and a luscious, heady finIsh. It is best drunk over the next 5-6 years.
90-93 Vivid red. Assertive aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, fresh lavender and minerals; there\’s a pinot-like vibrancy here that I like. Brisk and sharply defined, offering tangy red berry flavors, silky texture and good mineral snap. The finish is gently sweet and impressively pure. This wine is made from young vines from the Bruniers\’ Vieux Telegraphe and Domaine La Roquete.
90 ($39) Deep red. Vivid red berry and cherry liqueur aromas complemented by baking spices and white pepper. The supple, gently sweet palate offers deeper dark berry flavors. The peppery note repeats on the finish, which leaves behind sappy raspberry and blueberry notes. The lively fruit here is more straightforward that that of the La Crau.