The totally brilliant 2010 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc is an old vine blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache blanc, 15% Roussanne, and 15% Bourboulenc that’s aged in 1/3 foudre, 1/3 demi-muid, and 1/3 in barrels (10% new). Easily the best white I’ve tasted from this estate, it delivers a rocking bouquet of crisp peach and pear fruit that are livened up by richer, custard like qualities and riveting minerality. Medium to full-bodied on the palate and brilliantly concentrated, with a rich, yet light texture, good acidity, and a very long, classically dry finish. This fantastic white is deft and crisp enough to enjoy on its own, but has the richness to pair with a wide variety of fare. It should age beautifully for 15 years.
This cuts a nice path, with crème fraîche, green plum, pear and Jonagold apple flavors all woven together and offset nicely by a flash of quinine on the finish. This should age well. This best vintage yet for a Vieux Télégraphe white. Drink now through 2014
This example is more delicate than previous vintages, but well-delineated with hints of wet rocks, quince and honeyed citrus offered in a medium to full-bodied, fresh, lively style. Less weighty and powerful than the 2009, the elegant 2010 should drink well for 1-2 years.
91. Pale gold. Bright and racy on the nose and palate, offering lively lemon, orange and pear qualities and zesty minerality. Fleshy but dry, with very good back-end cut and finishing clarity. I like the combination of power and finesse here. This wine has a sound track record for aging and I suspect that this will be a really interesting wine five or six years down the road.