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JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR JAMES SUCKLING – AVRIL 2024

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2023

Subtle, elegant and very refined white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It shows aromas of citrons, pears, wild herbs, fennel and blanched almonds. It’s medium-bodied with balance and a refined character throughout. Textural, caressing, precise and silky on the mid-palate. Flavorful and harmonious with a focused finish. Drink or hold. 95 pts

TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021

This is a stunning, well-balanced and crunchy Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Fresh and precise. It shows notes of red berries, cherries, bay leaves, wild herbs and baking spices. Medium -to full- bodied with fine tannins. It has a bright center-palate with freshness and harmony. It’s vibrant and zesty with a similar long finish. Drink or hold. 94 pts

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2023

Fresh forest berry, savory and wet earth aromas are married to a lovely freshness and fine tannins on the lively medium-to full-bodied palate. Very elegant finish that teases you with all its subtle nuances. A cuvee of 70% grenache, 15% syrah and 15% mourvedre. Drink or hold. 95 pts

PIEDLONG– CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021

I love the ripe red plum aroma of this generous and polished 2021. Stacks of fine tannins give it a very sensuous texture that makes it difficult to say no. Very long, velvety finish with excellent spicy complexity. From grenache growing on galet cobblestone soil and a small amount of mourvedre grown on sand that are fermented separately. Drink ok hold. 94 pts

CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2023

Intense and aromatic, with so much texture to it. Notes of dried lemons, dried herbs, pears, blanched almonds and anise. Full-bodied with a well-rounded, suave and ample development on the palate. Plenty of dried herb character and vibrant spices. Creamy but agile. Drink or hold. 95 pts

CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2022

A spectacular white, spicy, balanced and harmonious, with aromas of baked lemons, anise, honeysuckle, warm herbs and a touch of blanched almonds. It’s medium- to full-bodied with precise definition on the palate. Lively and vibrant with a caressing texture at the edges. The center-palate is vibrating with tension. Long finish. Drink or hold. 95 pts

PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE BLANC 2023

A well-rounded, creamy and vivid blend of 60% clairette, 20% roussanne, 10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. It shows aromas of dried lemons, apples, wild herbs and white flowers. Medium-bodied with a delicious center-palate. Supple and refreshing. Aromatic finish with some bitter almond character. Drink now. 92 pts

PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE ROUGE 2022

A vivid, juicy yet serious red with notes of cherries, strawberries, crushed raspberries and some roasted black pepper. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Lively and spicy, with pure fruit character at the center and some dried herbs lifting the finish. Drink now. 92 pts

PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE BLANC 2022

Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne, 10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brnier Family lives. Drink now. 91 pts

MEGAPHONE – VENTOUX 2022

A well-crafted, balanced and lively red with aromas of red berries, dried herbs, stones and baking spices. It’s medium-to-full-bodied with fine tannins. Vivid and quite intense at the entry with a kick of spices bringing energy. Plenty of verve and wildness to the clear fruit character and a precise finish. Drink or hold. 92 pts

PIGEOULET – IGP VAUCLUSE ROUGE 2023

A delicious, juicy and mellow red with notes of strawberries, raspberries and mild spices. It’s medium-bodied with fine tannins. Well-rounded, creamy and fruit-driven, with a sublte touch of spices. Vivid and well done. Drink now. 92 pts

MEGAPHONE – VENTOUX 2023

A succulent red, bright and delicious, with aromas of small berries, dried thyme and baking spices. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a bright, crunchy center-palate. It has pure fruit character at the center complemented by a touch of peppercorns, bringing vivacity and energy toward the finish. Drink or hold. 93 pts

TERRASSE DU DIABLE – LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS 2021

At once fresh, meaty and earthy, with candied orange freshness. This is concentrated and elegant, with crisp tannins that drive it over the medium-to-full-bodied palate. There’s terrific mountain freshness in the vibrant finish. A cuvee based on grenache with some mourvedre, mostly from high-altitude vineyards. Drink or hold. 95 pts

RACINES – LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS 2021

Concentrated and silky with fine, fantastic tannins for the 2021 vintage, this is earthy and meaty with excellent concentration and a very long, firm yet polished finish. A cuvee based on grenache from vines growing around the winery. Should age extremely well. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. 95 pts

AU PETIT BONHEUR – LES PALLIERES VIN DE FRANCE 2023

A pleasant, mellow and delicious rosé. It has aromas of dried lemons, wild herbs and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with a fresh core of yellow fruit and plenty of energy. Round and textural. A blend of grenache, clairette and cinsault. Drink now. 91 pts

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 18 AVRIL 2023

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE ROUGE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

97 pts. This amazing Chateauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness in spite of coming from a very warm and dry vintage. The stony minerality, saltiness and dried flower character wind together to form a dynamic whole, driving this gracefully across the palate. But I must also mention the savory and licorice richness that is so deftly wrapped around them. Very long, salty and velvety finish. Drink or hold.

VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE BLANC – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021

95 pts. Stunningly complex nose of dried flowers, beeswax and candied citrus peel. However, the interplay of richness and freshness on the palate tops it. Extremely long finish where the fine tannins build and build at the salty climax. A cuvee based on clairette with grenache blanc, roussanne and a little bourboulenc. Some of the vines date back more than a century, but the majority are about 40-50 years old. Drink or hold.

PIEDLONG – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

Very spicy and savory with grilled rosemary and dried flower nuances. Very powerful but extremely focused with a great mineral freshness and salinity, it’s really hard to believe this easily has 15% alcohol! Very fine tannins and a delicate vegetal quality that makes them feel even more lively. Long extremely animating finish with so much Mediterranean herb character. 90% grenache and 10% mourvedre. Drink or hold.

TÉLÉGRAMME – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019

94 pts. An excellent introduction to Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of damson plum, bitter chocolate and savory on the nose. Rich and dense but with plenty of vitality, and as it flows over the palate more and more spicy, wild herb and balsamic nuances emerge. A cuvee of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 6% mourvedre and 4% cinsault from a variety of terroirs within the appellation. Drink or hold.

CLOS ROQUÈTE – CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

94 pts. A powerful and bold white Chateauneuf with a lovely freshness. Plenty of melted butter character, but also stacks of floral honey and dried flowers. Beautiful integration of fine tannins and moderate acidity at the long finish. Single vineyard. There’s sandy soil, like at Rayas. A blend of one-third each of grenache blanc, clairette and roussanne. Drink or hold.

RACINES – GIGONDAS 2020

95pts. A very deep, dark and dense Gigondas that nonetheless has great balance and finesse. Great dried Mediterranean herb complexity, but also stacks of licorice. Then comes wonderful freshness at the powerful and velvety finish. 90% grenache, 5% mourvedre and 5% clairette. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

TERRASSES DU DIABLE – GIGONDAS 2020

93 pts. Here’s a rich, but beautifully crafted Gigondas that’s brimming with red fruits and spice. Also notes of licorice and rosemary. Impressive interplay of generous earthy tannins and damson plum richness at the ample finish. Drink or hold.

PIGEOULET BLANC – VIN DE PAYS VAUCLUSE 2022

91 pts. Tons of citrus zest and a touch of spring blossom. Generous, but with lively acidity and interesting textural complexity. Elegant finish with impressive depth of lemony character and a touch of salt. 60% clairette, 20% roussanne,10% grenache blanc and 10% vermentino. Named after the house where the Brunier family lives. Drink now.

AU PETIT BONHEUR – VIN DE FRANCE 2022

92 pts. Very distinctive nose of quince, ripe pear, orange blossom and rose. Mouth-filling richness and a wonderful creamy texture pull you onto their magic carpet and take you for a ride. Then the restrained tannins come through and give the finish a wonderful tension in spite of the soft acidity. A blanc de noirs made from grenache and cinsault, fermented and matured in 600-liter wooden casks. Drink now.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – DÉGUSTATION PAR STUART PIGOTT AU DOMAINE LE 7 MARS 2022

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2019

97 pts. If anyone tells you that Châteauneuf is just a big red that’s never elegant, then they need to taste this masterpiece of elegance. So many spicy and savory nuances on the very concentrated but almost perfectly proportioned palate. This is both joyful and serious at the very long, focused finish. Decades of aging potential! Drink or hold.

PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019

96 pts. This Chateauneuf beautifully marries the delicate floral side of grenache with stunning depth and lovely richness on the mid-palate. Wonderful, velvety finish that goes on and on, making you want more of this great beauty. Drink or hold.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

95 pts. Plenty of fresh-nut character, plus notes of bread dough and candied lemon on the enticing nose. Rich and creamy palate, the underlining stony character complementing this very neatly. Long and complete finish with serious textural and mineral complexity. From the Domaine du Vieux Télégraph stable. Drink or hold.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2019

95 pts. Very dense and complex with aromas ranging from black plum to wild thyme, as well as hints of candied orange, smoke and dry earth. In spite of all the richness and concentration of this imposing Gigondas, the slightly rustic tannins give this a lot of drive and accentuate the freshness. Long, chalky finish. Drink or hold.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2019

96 pts. This shows the greatness that Gigondas is capable of. A huge wine, but with great structure and aromatic complexity that takes your breath away. Big black fruit, but so many herbal and savory nuances, then comes the long, smoky and meaty finish. Excellent aging potential. A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.

CLOS ROQUÈTE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2020

94 pts. A powerful and mouth-filling white Chateauneuf with a very mineral personality and excellent textural complexity. The freshness makes this feel lighter than it really is. Long finish with plenty of dried-herb character. Has the potential to age for many years. A blend of 35% Clairette, 35% Roussanne and 30% grenache blanc from 40-year-old vines on sandy soil. Drink or hold.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2019

94 pts. Very ripe damson plum, but not a jot overripe on the finely nuanced nose. This powerful Chateauneuf has an excellent balance of generous, fine tannins and richness, the lively acidity lifting the long savory finish beautifully. Drink or hold.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VENTOUX MÉGAPHONE 2020

92 pts. A fragrant and surprisingly elegant Ventoux with a healthy tannin structure on the medium body and nice freshness at the long, mineral finish. Drink now.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET ROUGE 2020

90 pts. A generous Vaucluse red with plenty of ripe-blackberry fruit and wild-herb aromas supported by supple tannins. Some smoke and pepper at the full, harmonious finish. A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 5% mourvèdre and 5% carignan. Drink now.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA CRAU 2020

96-97. Such a deep and meaty nose with a slew of wild-herb, savory and subtle balsamic notes. Then comes the expansive and very concentrated palate, which reveals so many spicy nuances as it rolls over the palate, the stunning fine tannins pushing the finish out even further. A grenach-based blend from 60-year-old vines.

PIEDLONG CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020

94-95. This beautiful Rhône red will delight Burgundy fans. A fragrant Châteauneuf, in which grenache shows its floral side. So juicy, but this glides over your palate, the balance of creamy richness and elegant tannins spot on. Long, graceful and delicate finish. A blend of 90% grenache and 10% mourvèdre.

DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TÉLÉGRAMME 2020

91-92. Both bright and fleshy, this is a very good introduction to Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Plenty of damson plum and bright cherry with a touch of plum-cake character. A solid core of tannins keeps the palate dry and straight. Good lenght, if not that complex at the finish.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS LES RACINES 2020

95-96. Enormously deep and powerful, but the full and fine tannins hold this mighty ship on course straight into the sunset. Great forest-berry aromas, but at the finish the wild-herb character expands and expands. Excellent aging potential! A blend of 80% grenache, 8% syrah, 7% cinsault and 5% clairette.

LES PALLIÈRES GIGONDAS TERRASSE DU DIABLE 2020

94-95. Deep nose of damson plum and ripest blackberry with subtle savory, soy sauce and wild herb notes. Very powerful and expansive palate with a majoy tannin structure that gives this a lot of drive and energy. Long, concentrated finish with impressive freshness for this appellation. A blend of 90% grenache, 5% mourvèdre, and 5% clairette.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET 2021

89-90. Vivid blackberry fruit and slightly sappiness on the palate make this a refreshing red, in spite of the fullish body. Gently tannins support the clean finish nicely.

SELON FRÉDÉRIC & DANIEL BRUNIER VAUCLUSE LE PIGEOULET BLANC 2021

89-90. Quite some yeasty character from sur-lie maturation with ripe yellow apple character and some herbal freshness. Generous body with discreet fruit, but a clean finish.

LES PALLIÈRES VIN DE FRANCE AU PETIT BONHEUR 2021

91-92. This pale rosé from the Gigondas appellation is all about textural complexity and elegance. Delicate peach and melon character. Long and supple, but clean finish.

JAMES SUCKLING – RHONE IN THE ZONE WITH A STRING OF SOLID VINTAGES

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – 12 OCTOBRE, 2019 – NICK STOCK, SENIOR EDITOR

The Rhone Valley’s three most recent vintages are very distinctive and deliver quite clear influence over the wines they made. The most recent, 2017, is in a difficult position to be compared with the extrememly strong years of 2015 and 2016. However, after tasting a few hundred wines this summer in the Rhone Valley and visiting a few dozen producers, the 2017 has made some excellent wines.

Read the article

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

96. Immediately a sense of darker fruit in this vintage. The nose has closed up a little since tasting in barrel. It has some reserved, sanguine notes and an essence-like, raspberry core. Some stones and chalk here, too. Very long and focused palate. The grenache is singing here. Dense but soft and supple tannins, the product of thick, healthy skins. Best from 2025.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018

94-95. The finished blend that is now aging another year in 60 hectoliter barrels, this has a very fleshy, round, rich and smooth-honed palate that has such completeness already. The raspberries and red plums are stunning here. The tannins are there and very open-knit and there’s a super sapid feel to the finish. The 15% mourvedre does much of the heavy lifting here. It shapes the finish and drags it deep. Around one-third from crushed grapes with stems. Drinkable on release, but best from 2024.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2017

96. A stonier, more mineral expression of white Châteauneuf with impressive body and concentration. Super fresh, white flowers, flint and delicate pears here. The palate has a strong, mineral edge, smooth phenolics, fleshy stone fruit and a neat, fine, chalky finish. Clairette, grenache blanc, roussanne and bourboulenc. Drink in 2020.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2018

96. Traditionally dominated by clairette (45%) and grenache blanc (30%), then roussanne and bourboulenc. The vines average 50+ years and there’s a very restrained nose with dialed-back white-pear and chalk aromas with dried flowers, too. The palate has a super fresh, zippy feel and a long, juicy and attractive core of fresh, salty minerals. The balance is innate and very fluid. Drink or hold.

Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2016

98. The trademark, old-vine-grenache offering of earthy notes with wild berries, herbs, flowers and spices. Wild. Hints of blood oranges and pink-grapefruit peel. Superb, expansive palate shape, all finesse and length. Super-fine, focused and elegant. Refined, regal and majestic. Peppery, bright, wild, red fruit, blood oranges and orange bitters. Decades ahead of this. Drink or hold.

Piedlong Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

93. A blend of 90% grenache for the Piedlong section and 10% mourvedre from the Pignan section, both old-vine parcels. The wild herbs and dried, wild red flowers and roses here are really something, together with grilled meat. Rich and succulent, very fleshy and intense. Drink or hold.

Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2017

93. Ripe and brambly raspberry, blueberry and cassis aromas with a strong thread of wild herbs. The shape is refined and taut through the palate. Some airy, fleshy lightness here with plush, fine and dense tannins. Finishes fresh with red fruit. Great grenache in 2017. Drink or hold.

Télégramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge 2018

92-93. This has a lot of red fruit, a lot of personality and a lot of brambly aromas with spicy nuances, too. The palate has a very smooth build and a deep, plum and red-fruit core, framed in long, noble and rich, ripe tannins. The immediate fleshy appeal is high. Wait for the rest. Try from 2022.

Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2017

95. Aromas of cassis, garrigue and redcurrants and wild raspberries. Grenache drives the palate in a long, linear and very focused style. Dense, but delicate, with a fresh and juicy, raspberry-pastry finish. The vines are 80+ years old. Striking power and focus. Drink or hold.

Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines rouge 2018

91-92. From very old vines (70-100 years old). There is a strong, red-fruit focus here with a sappy and very plush feel to the palate. Succulent, fleshy and mellow and a very suave, open-knit and ripe-grenache finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% cinsault and syrah co-planted. Drink over the first decade.

Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable rouge 2017

94. Lots of violets and blue fruit with cinnamon and dark stony aromas. Baking spices, too. On the palate, there’s black fruit and an attractive, bitter-herb kick, with very dense tannins and a powerful, compressed feel. Lithe, juicy blue-fruit finish. Very focused, dense and long. Drink or hold.

Les Pallières Gigondans Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

92-93. The fruit for this is sourced from elevated terrasses (above 300m) and the depth and righ, dark cherries and plums are stunning. Rich red plums, mulberries, chocolate and plenty of tannin here. Sapid, chalky finish. A blend of 85% grenache and 15% mourvedre. 70% de-stemmed and 30% crushed with stems. Drink or hold.

Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018

93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017

93. Super plush, and opulent, offering notes of sweet red plums, raspberry compote and darker blackberries. The palate is bathed in mixed-berry flavor, as well as dark cherries and dark minerals. Starts really supple, then turns fine and tightens through the finish. Noble tannins and darker fruit. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah. A great vintage for this wine! Drink over the next five years.

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018

91-92. A blend of 80% grenache and 20% syrah, this has a very rich and attractively ripe feel in 2018. Succulent, dense and very plush tannins carry an assertive, fresh and fleshy feel. There’s a salty mineral note, too. Drink on release.

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2017

92. Pre-bottling from foudre. This has a ripe but fresh feel to it with very attractive berry-compote and spice. There’s a wealth of brambly, red grenache fruit, plenty of spice and a very plush, soft and supple palate with wild raspberries. Drink now.

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018

90-91. Ripe red cherries and raspberries with a fine palate that has a very sleek, plush and attractive feel. The palate is sappy and plush. 80% grenache, 10-15% carignan and the balance is syrah. Drink now.

JAMES SUCKLING – DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES 2018

Vin de France Au Petit Bonheur Rosé 2018

93. This offers such complex and sophisticated drinking with a lightly toasted thread to the ripe, rich fruit. Grilled-peach flavors abound and the length is exceptional. Drink now.

Terrasse du Diable rouge 2018

Les Racines rouge 2018

JAMES SUCKLING – MÉGAPHONE ET PIGEOULET 17 & 18

Le Pigeoulet Vin de Pays Vaucluse rouge 2018

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2017

Mégaphone Ventoux rouge 2018

JAMES SUCKLING TOP 100 – Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016

Vieux Télégraphe ambassadeur de la Vallée du Rhône dans le dernier top100 de James Suckling en 72ème place.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM – A Perfect Voyage in the Rhone

[…] Daniel Brunier of Vieux Telegraphe also couched 2016 in similarly glowing terms: “If I had to summarize, I would say 2015 is a very good vintage and 2016 is magic. Honestly, the 2016 vintage is really magic; it is very rare.””

[…] The quality of the entire range of Brunier Family wines was once again exceptional, led by the flagship Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2016, which I rated 98 points. I also was impressed by the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2016, a standout vintage for this wine. It has exceptional precision and power, driven by sublime grenache character.”

[…] The white Chateauneuf highlights are refreshingly plentiful with Charbonnière and La Nerthe both delivering exceptional 2017s; also look to the Beaucastel Chateauneuf Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2017 and the Clos La Roquète 2017. The top white score goes to the Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2017 with 96 points, as it shows exceptional concentration, weight and marvelous freshness in a vintage that could easily have been toppled by the dry conditions.