
(91) The 2024 Vin de France Rosé au petit bonheur has a really distinctive flavor profile of bitter cherry, ripe white beach and toasted almond married to deep, stony mineral inflections. Broad and dense through the mid-palate yet deceptively light in body, it maintains energy without excess weight, running through to a long, clean finish with a nip of spice right on the close. Balanced and unique.
(90) A minuscule 630 liters were produced of the inaugural 2024 Gigondas Blanc, a single-variety Clairette aging in one demi-muid. White flowers and yellow apple aromas come alive as wet stone éléments provide a mineral lift. Medium-bodied and creamy textured, the 2024 is an easygoing yet serious, focused white Gigondas from Domaine Les Pallières. It can be enjoyed right away.
(92) The only red Gigondas from Domaine Les Pallières this year due to the coulure-derived absence of the Racines, the 2023 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable was bottled in May 2025. Blending 95% Grenache with dollops of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, it unwinds with ripe red plum, raspberry and leafy tones. Herbal éléments add more complexity. Smoothly textured and refined, the medium-to full bodied 2023 Terrasse du Diable stands shoulder to shoulder with 2022 I tasted a year ago.
(91-93) On the nose, the 2024 Gigondas Racines shows a little less overall complexity and intensity than the Terrasse du Diable tasted alongside, offering subtle black fruits and dried herb aromas. Licorice adds another layer. Coming alive on the full-bodied palate, the 2024 carries ample flavor concentration wrapped in slightly chalky tannins that provide solid grip. No doubt i twill require more time to mellow than the Terrasse du Diable, but all the right ingredients are present.
(91-93) The 2024 Gigondas Terrasse du Diable is sexy and perfumed, unwinding with intense orange blossom, red plum, rose petal and spicy undertones. Medium-to full-bodied, smoothly textured and ultra-fresh, the 2024 is shaping up to be yet another delightful Terrasse du Diable from the talented Brunier family.
(94) The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is going to turn heads for a long time to come. Pronounced violets, wild strawberries and melted licorice mingle with blackberry and garrigue on the complex aromatic profile. Alluring, concentrated and superbly structured through polished tannins, the full-bodied 2023 is such a gorgeous Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau.
(93) The 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is at eye level with the equally stunning 2020 and 2021 renditions, mixing 40% Clairette with 25% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc. Swirling the glass unlocks fresh white flowers, lemon flesh, pear and a flicker of pastry. Medium- to full-bodied and compact, the precise-cut 2024 will benefit from a few years of cellaring but is hard to resist in its youth.
(91-93) Mixing 70% Grenache with the remainder split between Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, the 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau unwinds with wild strawberry, ripe blackberry, stemmy subtleties and peppery accents. Vinified using roughly 30% whole clusters, the 2024 is the first La Crau vintage where the grapes from around one hectare of Cinsault went into the mix, which was previously used for the Télégramme. Full-bodied, structured and concentrated, the 2024 is shaping up nicely, finishing with composure and subtle spiciness.
(89-91) Mixing 85% Grenache with the remainder split between Syrah and Mourvèdre from fully destemmed grapes, the 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme unwinds with fragrant orange blossom and strawberry jam aromas. Medium- to full-bodied and perfumed, the open-knit 2024 checks out with medium length. Let’s see whether it can pick up a little more substance during the remainder of its élevage.
(91-93) Using roughly 40% whole clusters, the complex 2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pope PiedLong opens with delicious orange rind, forest strawberry and herbal features. Savory and inviting, the 2024 showcases superb overall freshness, drawing to a close with elegance on the fruit-etched finish. 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre were used in this blend.
(93) The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape PiedLong is an instant classic. Perfumed and complex, it starts with prominent forest strawberry, red plum, dried herbs and crushed violets. Touching the full-bodied palate with outstanding overall balance, the smoothly structured 2023 is both juicy and elegant, ending with continuity on the savory resolution.
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is showing well. Mixing bright aromas of jasmine, dried lemon peel, lime zest, yellow apple, white peach, pineapple, dried ginger and a pinch of honey. Medium to full-bodied, vibrant with a core of fresh acidity, it concludes with a sapid finish and a modestly salty aftertaste.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (94)
Vieux Télégraphe’s 2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is a delicious blend of Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Fragrant aromas of spring flowers, grapefruit, quince, lemon zest, white peach, melon and a flinty twist introduce this 2019 La Crau. It is a full-bodied, refined white with moderate levels of round acidity and great persistence on the finish.
2020 Télégramme (92)
Checking in at 15% alcohol, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme reveals aromas of predominantly ripe black fruits, strawberry compote, dried herbs, mint and licorice. It is a layered, full-bodied red with ample concentration, neatly balanced by fresh acidity concluding with a touch of heat on the savory finish.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau checks in at a moderate 13.5% alcohol. It displays enticing aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon peel, lime zest, white peach and hints of fresh coconut. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, the 2020 concludes with a sapid finish and will provide sheer drinking pleasure over the next seven years.
2020 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was vinified from partially de-stemmed grapes and aged in foudre. The 2020 La Crau displays pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, red and black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and hints of smoke. Full-bodied, refined and built like a brick wall, it will reward bottle age.
2021 Télégramme (91-93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme shows the characteristics of the vintage well. Mingling aromas of crushed flowers, fresh raspberry and strawberry as well as dried herbs. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, layered, framed by a smooth tannin structure and balanced by lively acids.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is made from Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc. It presents lively aromas of grapefruit, sping flowers, white peach and a pinch of mango. This medium-bodied wine hits the palate with excellent flavor concentration and crisp acidity, finishing bright and juicy.
2021 Vieux Télégraphe (93-95)
The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a solid effort from the Brunier family. The 2021 La Crau unfurls in the glass with a fragrant perfume of crushed violets, lavender, strawberry, raspberry, dried herbs, mint and a dash of white pepper. It is full-bodied and layered, showing a refined profile marked by soft tannins and lively acids. Not as powerful as either 2020 or 2019, but the 2021 is certainly the most elegant rendition among them.
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Brillant ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of ripe raspberry, blueberry, potpourri and garrigue, along with an exotic spice nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Subtly chewy and expansive in the mouth, showing impressive energy to its intense, mineral-laced red and blue fruit preserve, candied lavender and spicecake flavors. Finishes sappy and impressively long, with resonating spice and floral notes and harmonious tannins adding gentle grip.
2018 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (94)
Shimmering ruby-red. Expansive red fruit preserve, lavender and allspice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of incense with air. Gently chewy and energetic on the palate, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry and spicecake flavors that flesh out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive depth but comes off lively, finishing extremely long and spicy, with building tannins adding final grip.
2019 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (95)
Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched red/blue fruit liqueur aromas pick up suggestions of licorice, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers and herbs with air. In a lush, weighty style, offering expansive black raspberry, cherry cola, singed plum and fruitcake flavors sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. For all this wine’s richness, it’s energetic as well, showing solid, spice and floral-driven persistence on the finish, which is framed by velvety, even tannins.
2017 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (93)
Attention-grabbing notes of flintstone, lemon flesh, ripe pear and dried flowers introduce the multifaceted 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau, a medium-bodied white with remarkable freshness. Carrying spot-on balance, the tasty 2017 sits in a beautiful drinking spot, where I suspect it will remain for five more years. A long and sapid finish wraps it up.
2022 Télégramme (92)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme kicks off with crushed violets, ripe raspberry, wild strawberry and a pinch of dried herbs. Leafy gradations add more complexity. Round and elegant, the full-bodied 2022 walks off the stage with persistence on the juicy finish. What a lovely Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
2022 Piedlong (94)
The 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape PiedLong is a beauty. Prominent raspberry compote, ripe strawberry, melted licorice, dried herbs and peppery nuances rise up from the glass. Supported by ripe and sleek tannins, the full-bodied 2022 is loaded with intensity, wrapping up with endurance on the powerful finish. There’s no doubt that this is a long-distance runner. Readers should note that Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a 2022 La Crau due to the devastating hail damage in August.
2023 Télégramme (90-92)
The spicy and red-fruited 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme is shaping up to become yet another rock-solid red Châteauneuf from the talented Brunier family. Anchored by polished tannins, the fruit-driven and expressive 2023 checks out with a refreshing finish.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (92)
The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau is delightful, offering a fresh and fragrant bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, accented by a hint of green apple. The 2023 delivers ample energy on the medium-to full-bodied palate an exits with a refined finish. As with the red, Vieux Télégraphe did not produce a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau in 2022 vintage due to the devastating August hailstorms.
2023 Piedlong (91-93)
Vinified with 30% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pied Long blends 90% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre. Vivid orange blossom, wild strawberry, rosewater and spicy gradations are all dialed up. Touching the palate with ample freshness wrapped in smooth tannins, the 2023 packs remarkable elegance.
2023 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge (92-94)
Vinified with 20% whole clusters, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau unwinds from the glass with fragrant rose petal, wild strawberry, licorice, and stemmy subtleties. Juicy and expressive, the full-bodied 2023 is immediately alluring, precisely balance and remarkably elegant on the complex finish. I can’t wait to taste it from bottle.
VINOUS.COM – DÉC 2019
Châteauneuf-du-Pape fans will find plenty to like from 2017, a vintage marked by consistently warm to hot weather that yielded distinctly rich, fleshy, fruit-driven wines. The growing season presented its share of challenges, and yet the best wines are compelling. Even so, readers need to be selective, as the style of the year is quite particular, and some wines are overdone.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2017
94-95. Full shimmering ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe boysenberry, Chambord and Asian spices, and a sexy floral nuance gains strength with air. Sweet and seamless on the palate, displaying a suave blend of power and delicacy to the concentrated red and blue fruit, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors. Shows impressive energy and a mineral quality on the gently tannic, penetrating finish, which hangs on with a strong, floral-driven tenacity.
Télégramme rouge 2017
92-93. Deep ruby-red. Intensely perfumed raspberry and cherry aromas open up quickly with air and develop suggestions of candied flowers and baking spices. Stains the palate with intense red fruit preserve flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky element. At once lively and well-concentrated, finishing with solid, fruity thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness.
Vieux Télégraphe rouge 2016
95. Brilliant ruby. Ripe cherry and red berries on the deeply perfumed nose, along with hints of smoky minerals and potpourri. Palate-staining cherry and raspberry liqueur flavors show impressive clarity and depth, and a spine of juicy acidity provides lift and focus. Finishes extremely long and sweet, delivering solid thrust, a hint of candied flowers and suave, harmonious tannins. Drink 2024-2034.
Télégramme rouge 2016
93. Vivid ruby. Mineral-laced red berry preserve, spicecake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of smoky minerals and pungent herbs. Juicy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become deeper and sweeter with air while maintaining energy. Shows very good breadth and thrust on the sweet, red-fruit-dominated finish, which is framed by gently, slow-building tannins. Drink 2022-2031.
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2016
94. Limpid yellow. Penetrating citrus and orchard fruit aromas are joined by suggestions of chalky minerals, fennel and jasmine. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering mineral-driven pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb definition and drive. The mineral and pear notes repeat emphatically on the nervy finish, which hangs on with impressive focus and persistence.
Vieux Télégraphe blanc 2017
(94-95). Bright straw-yellow. Powerful aromas of fresh pear and white peach are complicated by suggestions of orange zest, iodine and succulent lowers. Sappy and impressively delineated on the palate, offering intense pear skin, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle flavors that deepen and pread out steadily on the back half. Hints of marzipan and candied ginger emerge on an impressively long, mineral-tinged finish that echoes the floral and citrus fruit notes