Millésimes Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 2007
VIGNERON MAGAZINE – N 48 – PRINTEMPS 2022 – JEAN-LUC BARDE
Il a 15 ans cet élégant qui balade ses commencements truffés, son balancement velouté et ces gestes purs qui n’appartiennent qu’à lui. Une succession de vagues de La Mer de Debussy, des éclats de lumière pourpre, des notes prolongées à l’infini. Celui-là se boira sans cesse excellent, Daniel Brunier l’affirme : « Il sera toujours plus patient que toi. » Nous vieillirons ensemble, c’est le mouvement perpétuel du Boléro de Ravel, sa finale est éternelle.
SOMMELIER INTERNATIONAL – AOÛT 2010
Nez : plaisant, une belle complexité sur des arômes de petits fruits noirs et rouges très mûrs et de fleurs (pivoine, violette), s’ouvrant à l’aération vers des touches de cerise confite et de réglisse.
Bouche : très aromatique, structurée et puissante. Bien équilibrée. Finale chaleureuse sur des tanins soyeux.
Accord mets et vins : un lapin aux épices. Commentaires : un vin profond et harmonieux
www.bordeauxwineenthusiasts.com
This was tied for wine of the Thanksgiving weekend that included, among other great wines, the following: 1995 Cos d\’Estournel, 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste, 1998 La Mission Haut Brion, 2000 Beaucastel, 2001 Phelps Insignia, 2007 Les Cailloux, and some twenty other spectacular wines. The co-winner was a dazzling 2000 Smith Haut Lafitte, which is really rounding into form. The Vieux Telegraphe was stunning on the nose, stunning on the palate. It was popped and poured and was the immediate, hands-down, no-question-about-it favorite among the dozen or so who drank it. The 1998 Figeac was also a chocolate right bank beauty.
LES MEILLEURS VIN DE FRANCE 2011
8ème rang – […] Le bouquet dégage immédiatement d’étonnantes et très attachantes exhalaisons de brise marine, légèrement iodées et salées. Sur cette trame, repose un velours de confiture de cerises, de pruneau et de poivre noir. Puis l’algue afflue, accompagnée de jolis baigneurs : cassis, bois de réglisse et tabac blond. L’attaque confirme la richesse que le nez avait déjà révélée. Les tannins sont mûrs, corsés, extrêmement denses. Ils libèrent de la pâte de coing et de cassis, ainsi que de la groseille à maquereau. En rétro-olfaction s’imposent des herbes de Provence et du paprika. La finale est époustouflante, elle touche presque la queue de pan en atteignant 50 caudalies, pendant lesquelles se joue une parfait harmonie d’acide, d’alcool, de figue, de cerise, de poivre blanc, de piment doux et de safran. Dans cette bouteille, la richesse de Crésus, l’esprit de la commune, du Front populaire et des premiers congés payés, s’embrassent jusqu’à l’extase.
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010
($70) Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property’s usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine’s virility. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA) 93
GUIDE BETTANE ET DESSEAUVE 2010
15/20. Le vin est souple et charnu, sur les fruits à noyau, de longueur correcte mais sans pour autant posséder le volume et la profondeur des plus grandes réussites de la propriété.
WINE ADVOCATE – OCT 2009 – ROBERT PARKER
rating 96 – The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25 years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier.
DECANTER – NOV 2009 – ***** (19)
JOHN LIVINGSTONE – £30-35
Red cherry, wax and nut nose – a future beauty. Has more structure than most 2007s,fresh and balanced. Red fruit palate and huge tannins.
WINE ADVOCATE –N°179
30 OCT 2008 – ROBERT PARKER
(94-96 ) – should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45 seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would walt until 2012 before pullung a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years.
WINE SPECTATOR INSIDER – JAMES MOLESWORTH
95 POINTS – $66 – 4100 cs imported Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone-filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2030.—J.M.
IWC – JAN-FEV 2009 – Josh Reynolds
90-93 – Saturated ruby. Youthfully brooding nose displays dark berries, tobacco and licorice, plus an undercurrent of smoky minerals. More powerful than what I expect from this estate, boasting deep, chewy cassis and bitter cherry flavors and a late note of bitter chocolate. Impressive for its richness and size, but will it gain the finesse that I associate with this domain?
DECANTER – MAY 2009 – RHONE VALLEY TOP 2007 – J. Livingstone
***** (19) – Full bouquet, promises to be a beauty. The palate is fresh and balanced, with a mark of tanin following on from a willing bout of red fruits. Drink 2009-2034
TOP 100 2009 – WINE SPECTATOR – 30 DEC 2009
VIEUX TELEGRAPHE RED 2007 GOT THE 3RD RANK
When Châteauneuf-du-Pape became France’s frist AOC in 1936, Vieux Télégraphe had already been in operation for nearly 40 years. Today, brothers Daniel and Frédéric Brunier farm the domaine’s 173 acres located in the appellation’s famed La Crau sector. The wine is a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% of each Syrah and Mourvèdre and a dash of Cinsault, Clairette and others, all sourced from vines averaging 60 years of age. 17000cs made.
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