INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR – #148 – JAN/FEB 2010

($70) Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property’s usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine’s virility. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA) 93