WINE ADVOCATE #189 – JUNE 30, 2010

95. Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Télégraphe that was produced. it has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. it has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this fullbodied, powerfull wine. it possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in ters of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo !