93. Rich, ripe, heady and particularly stony, Vieux Télégramme 2nd wine is a savoury, well-balanced, especially succulent wine, with fine, firm, gritty tannins and a marvelously saline flavour profile complete with wild herbs, cold gravel, and a range of fresh-ripe red and black fruit. I particularly admire the comfort and ease on the palate, concentrated and complex without recourse to excessive ripeness or exaggerated concentration. Length and depth, too, are excellent. A genuinely classy wine; drink or hold mid-term. Tasted March 2021.