WINE SPECTATOR online – 30 APR; 2009

The Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 1998 comes from a big, muscular vintage that is just now starting to hit its stride. This wine, typically rugged when young, has slowly but surely evolved into a mouthfilling wine loaded with black currant, bacon fat, tar and grilled herb notes. There’s still plenty of grip for additional aging, though the wine has softened enough to now be approachable. I gave it 94 points, non-blind, which is consistent with the review I gave it when I did a retrospective tasting of 1998 Châteauneufs back in 2007.