Bistros, brasseries and consumers looking for an easygoing, quaffing wine should check out the Brunier’s Le Pigeoulet, which Daniel Brunier calls a ‘retro’ style of wine (meaning that in the age of power and generosity, this is a lighter, more elegant, fruity, earthy effort meant for immediate consumption). The 2008 and 2009 vintage are cut from the same mold, with the 209 being slightly deeper, with riper fruit. This 5,000 cs cuvee offers considerable value.